Mann brass block and tuning issues

Aside from the mods (tuners and brass block), the guitar is as it was when I bought it the beginning of '24. In that time the tuning has been fairly stable. In stock form the guitar was fine, but I had to be light with the vibrato arm. My S2 Standard 24 was more stable, but it had the factory locking tuners, so I figured they would help my SAS SE, which they seemed to, even if subtly.
A short while later I installed the brass block to try and tame the tone of the SAS SE a little (because, brass...), plus I had it sitting around since I uninstalled it from my S2 prior to its sale and I might as well use it. THAT's when the tuning went weird and was very reminiscent of my S2 when the brass black was installed on it and the tuning on that went wacky.

So, the conclusion is that there's either something wrong with this block or something wrong with how I'm installing it...and I'm very mechanically inclined. And, yes, my next step was to reach out to Mann directly.
 
Did you adjust the six notched mounting screws correctly?Check John Mann’s video on how to do it.
 
Locking tuners are no crucial factor of tuning stability. First of all locking tuners support very quick re-stringing due to no or less string turns around the axis. And - undoubtful - they hold strings tight.
The most impact on tuning in- and stability is the nut and the string riders. The slots need to be perfectly fitted to gauge and the angles to ensure the lowest amount of friction.
Unfortunately you didn't provide A/B pictures.
I asume there has been a slight but severe change of an angle that cause more friction (my experience in that predominately the wound bass strings are the weakening source for the issue).
Hence give the guitar a professional check- and set-up.

WRONG !!!!!

Locking tuners are very important to tuning stability with trem equipped guitars.

Way back (1978-1979) Paul and myself conducted all kinds of experiments and tests on everything tuning related to trem equipped guitars.
Every part of the equation... tuners, nut, bridge, strings plays a part in getting a guitar to stay in tune.

Rregarding tuners... when you depress the trem (lower the tension), the strings slacken. If all six of them do not return back to the exact same position when you release the trem, you will be out of tune. If just one string is out of place by as little as .001" inch... you will hear that everything is out of tune! ( for reference - a human hair is typically only .003" inch).

Intresting historical note... the original PRS locking tuners (pre 1985 Phase I ) worked just the current Phase II/III
Here is a photo of my 1979 Santana -

476834144_122132730950575357_2258646195918445868_n.jpg
 
It doesn't make any sense that a trem block would cause tuning issues unless the block is not seated completely.
I would contact John Mann and see what he thinks.
I can't agree more. That block has to be rubbing somewhere in order to cause tuning issues. I don't think it would matter that much which springs you use. It just has to be rubbing the body inside trem route or it doesn't mate properly.
 
@John Mann, thank you for the detailed explanation.
I agree, that tuning stability is a sum of all parts. As I said: Locking tuners improve the speed of re-string.
It takes some more effort to achieve a tight connection of string and tuner, when using vintage tuners. But that's the common relevant point.

If locking tuners are of that relevance, I wonder why they aren't full standard. Even PRS does not with all their vibrato equipped guitars -> e. g. Silver Sky. And I asked why even Paul ('s product managers) decide(s) against locking tuners.

In terms of double locking vibrato systems, the locking nut remains standard. Rarely manufacturers combine locking tuners with a Graph Tech TUSQ XL PU-6518-00 and a Floyd Rose style vibrato system.
 
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