LOVE my new PRS but ongoing tuning issues - need some help

[mranonymous]

I got my new Custom 24 about a month ago. I love everything about it, except for one big thing - it just struggles with tuning.

So here is the basic rundown:

When I got the guitar last month (2017, Brand New Old Stock), the tuning was really bad. It would go out of tune almost instantly, even after a week or so of playing a lot.

So I found a local master luthier (well-known guy in the area, hundreds of amazing Yelp reviews and he has his own line of guitars), and he did a really good job. The tuning was a lot better when I got it back.

However, I still find that I have to tune it too much. If I am practicing/playing for 2 hours, I have to tune multiple strings at least 20 times in that span.

I can rule out the following:

- It is not my playing style, because I also own a Majesty on which I play the same stuff, and it stays in tune great

- I don't think it's my false expectations for PRS, because I used to have a 2011 Custom 24 and it stayed in tune extremely well. Also, from what I read online, most people's PRS guitars keep tune well

- It's not the new strings, because I have played it for many hours since I got it back from the luthier, and I have stretched them on multiple occasions

On an older forum post, someone said that the single most important thing for PRS tuning is that the "6 pivot screws" are set right. Is there an easy way I could diagnose this?

Tuning issues drive me absolutely crazy, but I love the PRS. If I could get this issue figured out I would be so happy with it. Any help is highly appreciated!

EDIT: Also forgot to add - I haven't even attached the tremolo bar yet, so all of these tuning issues are occurring from normal/non dive playing

 

[sadmoodyfrazier]

may I see some pictures of the tuners, nut and bridge, please? So you put a new set of strings? What gauge?

 

[mranonymous]

may I see some pictures of the tuners, nut and bridge, please? So you put a new set of strings? What gauge?

Sure, no prob. Lighting isn't the greatest in my room at night but hopefully these will be okay:

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1SvKCzJYTy8jgBWuN-8AtHi3z4t0BdqSL?usp=sharing

 

[mranonymous]

may I see some pictures of the tuners, nut and bridge, please? So you put a new set of strings? What gauge?

Sorry for that, I forgot to change the sharing setting. Try this one instead:

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1SvKCzJYTy8jgBWuN-8AtHi3z4t0BdqSL?usp=sharing

Also, they are 10-46, Ernie Ball Slinky. The luthier put them on

 

[sadmoodyfrazier]

Sorry for that, I forgot to change the sharing setting. Try this one instead:

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1SvKCzJYTy8jgBWuN-8AtHi3z4t0BdqSL?usp=sharing

Also, they are 10-46, Ernie Ball Slinky. The luthier put them on

K... it's very hard to say but seems that the bridge screws are not all level. The HI E one seems a little lower that all the others. Also... if you swapped for 10s the stock gauge for PRS guitars is 9s so the nut was made for thinner strings. If you dont touch the nut strings will not be free to move in it and you'll lose tuning for sure. Also check that all the screws and nuts of the tuning machines are correctly tightened. You have not to apply too much force but they have to be tightened, at least. I've gone slightly mad to make my SE keep tuning but now is almost frozen. I'm pretty sure it's a stupid thing, trust me. When you'll discover it you will be so happy. Anyway: first chapter: NUT. Are you sure the "luthier", who seems to me to have done not a beautiful setup on that guitar (saddles seems a little too flat radiused), have enlarged the slots? Also the floating bridge seems not parallel to the top. You should check also that. Seems a little lower on the back side.

 

[mranonymous]

K... it's very hard to say but seems that the bridge screws are not all level. The HI E one seems a little lower that all the others. Also... if you swapped for 10s the stock gauge for PRS guitars is 9s so the nut was made for thinner strings. If you dont touch the nut strings will not be free to move in it and you'll lose tuning for sure. Also check that all the screws and nuts of the tuning machines are correctly tightened. You have not to apply too much force but they have to be tightened, at least. I've gone slightly mad to make my SE keep tuning but now is almost frozen. I'm pretty sure it's a stupid thing, trust me. When you'll discover it you will be so happy. Anyway: first chapter: NUT. Are you sure the "luthier", who seems to me to have done not a beautiful setup on that guitar (saddles seems a little too flat radiused), have enlarged the slots? Also the floating bridge seems not parallel to the top. You should check also that. Seems a little lower on the back side.

Thanks for the tips

The guitar did actually come with 10's (it's written in the little PRS info thing that came with my guitar), but I do still wonder if the nut might need some widening.

Great point about the screws on the tuners. They have always felt a bit loose to me (compared to my Majesty especially), but I didn't know this could affect tuning. That will be the first thing I try tomorrow when I wake up.

I don't believe the luthier enlarged the slots. I'll have to take another look at the bridge level, and could also take a better pic of it tomorrow if needed

Will let you know tomorrow once I adjust the tuner screws, thanks again

 

[sadmoodyfrazier]

Thanks for the tips

The guitar did actually come with 10's (it's written in the little PRS info thing that came with my guitar), but I do still wonder if the nut might need some widening.

Great point about the screws on the tuners. They have always felt a bit loose to me (compared to my Majesty especially), but I didn't know this could affect tuning. That will be the first thing I try tomorrow when I wake up.

I don't believe the luthier enlarged the slots. I'll have to take another look at the bridge level, and could also take a better pic of it tomorrow if needed

Will let you know tomorrow once I adjust the tuner screws, thanks again

I checked the strings moving in the slots with a microscope lens for my mobile phone. It's a cheap thing you can buy for a few bucks from chinese stores. It's useful when you want to check tiny things like saddles, bridges, screws... you know... I have specifically this one.

 

[mranonymous]

I checked the strings moving in the slots with a microscope lens for my mobile phone. It's a cheap thing you can buy for a few bucks from chinese stores. It's useful when you want to check tiny things like saddles, bridges, screws... you know... I have specifically this one. Also if you have 4 springs in the back cavity I've found that putting another spring improved my tuning stability a lot. You can try.

Cool thanks, I’ll have to pick one up

 

[sadmoodyfrazier]

Cool thanks, I’ll have to pick one up

Also if you have 4 springs in the back cavity I've found that putting another spring improved my tuning stability a lot. You can try.

 

[mranonymous]

Also if you have 4 springs in the back cavity I've found that putting another spring improved my tuning stability a lot. You can try.

Awesome, great to know. I never thought about that, makes sense that it would help

 

[BradM]

I've had similar styles of trems on many guitars. Over the years, I've found I don't use them often so I usually do have at least 4 springs and run the tensioner tight. If you do use the Trem a bit, as suggested, check those screws...they're critical. You also might want to remove a screw at a time and check the underside of it. The screws are the pivotal joint for the trem. If they get scared or corroded over time they can catch slightly. The guitar will be out of tune...you adjust. And, all is ok until you use that trem again. So, if you find you tune sharp...then flat...suspect the trem screws.

Once you get those screws set even and the trem plate is FLAT (parallel with the guitar body)...take a very light oil, dive-bomb the trem, and pop a fraction of oil into the exposed tremplate screw cavity. Seated, hold the guitar with neck pointed down and do 2-3 dive-bombs. The goal is to get the oil evenly distributed between the screws and tremplate. Re-tune...then see how a playing session goes.

What you also don't want is excessive oil...just enough to get in, but not any that'll leak or drop onto your finish. And, should you find any touch spots on the screw head bottoms or the tremplate...replace as needed.

 

[Steve Dombroski]

This is the exact reason I wish PRS would just make it an option to have a core custom 24 with a stoptail. Maybe someday.

 

[sergiodeblanc]

Gotta be the nut.

 

[Gie663]

Hello, I bought a PRS SE Custom 24 six months ago and I experienced the same tuning issues.
I had a luthier change the standard nut for a GraphTech Tusq nut.
Since then no more tuning instability !
I did the same with my Telecaster by the way.
I don’t understand why such major guitar brands, which build beautiful guitars, provide such poor nuts.

 

[BradM]

If it's across all strings or most, I'd suspect the trem. If it's just a couple specific strings, I'd agree it's the nut. Or, could be both. Hit them both with a proper lube and see if the issues are minimized or disappear.

 

[mranonymous]

I've had similar styles of trems on many guitars. Over the years, I've found I don't use them often so I usually do have at least 4 springs and run the tensioner tight. If you do use the Trem a bit, as suggested, check those screws...they're critical. You also might want to remove a screw at a time and check the underside of it. The screws are the pivotal joint for the trem. If they get scared or corroded over time they can catch slightly. The guitar will be out of tune...you adjust. And, all is ok until you use that trem again. So, if you find you tune sharp...then flat...suspect the trem screws.

Once you get those screws set even and the trem plate is FLAT (parallel with the guitar body)...take a very light oil, dive-bomb the trem, and pop a fraction of oil into the exposed tremplate screw cavity. Seated, hold the guitar with neck pointed down and do 2-3 dive-bombs. The goal is to get the oil evenly distributed between the screws and tremplate. Re-tune...then see how a playing session goes.

What you also don't want is excessive oil...just enough to get in, but not any that'll leak or drop onto your finish. And, should you find any touch spots on the screw head bottoms or the tremplate...replace as needed.

Thanks for the info! Very detailed. I actually haven't used the trem once though and I don't really plan on using it (as my other guitar is my designated "trem guitar" lol). The tuning issues are happening from normal bends and playing, so that's what makes it extra frustrating.

Seeing as I don't use the trem, would you suggest I still try your steps? I am a little weary about doing things myself since the guitar was so expensive, but it doesn't seem like anything overly difficult so I may give it a go if still recommended.

This is the exact reason I wish PRS would just make it an option to have a core custom 24 with a stoptail. Maybe someday.

I know, this would be great. I was thinking about blocking the trem, but I don't want to mess with anything like that on such an expensive guitar. Also, I don't even know if this would help if my issue lies somewhere else.

Gotta be the nut.

Yeah it really seems like this is the main focus. The guy who set up my guitar did not work on the nut so this makes me think that it could be the ticket

Hello, I bought a PRS SE Custom 24 six months ago and I experienced the same tuning issues.
I had a luthier change the standard nut for a GraphTech Tusq nut.
Since then no more tuning instability !
I did the same with my Telecaster by the way.
I don’t understand why such major guitar brands, which build beautiful guitars, provide such poor nuts.

Awesome, that is great to know. Out of curiosity, how much was this procedure? And yeah I know - for all of the amazing work PRS does with building the guitars, it seems that the nut issues are very common with them

 

[BradM]

Thanks for the info! Very detailed. I actually haven't used the trem once though and I don't really plan on using it (as my other guitar is my designated "trem guitar" lol). The tuning issues are happening from normal bends and playing, so that's what makes it extra frustrating.

Seeing as I don't use the trem, would you suggest I still try your steps? I am a little weary about doing things myself since the guitar was so expensive, but it doesn't seem like anything overly difficult so I may give it a go if still recommended.

- Yes, a little lube on the trem screws and nut are routine things to do to ensure the best wear. Watch a YouTube video and you may find tips & tricks to ease your apprehension a bit. And, yes, pressure is exerted on the trem...I tend not to suspect it now, but it's still something I'd address. You could block it, but I wouldn't go to that point yet...increasing the spring tension would be my first attack on the problem. And, speaking of...have you had the plate off to check it?

 

[Tim S]

I hope the guy who setup your guitar knows to take the spring tension off the trem before moving the pivot screws. Otherwise... expect damage (which could result in tuning issues)

 

[Stephen J.]

This is a Core guitar. I would be surprised if the nut has issues like many experience with the SE guitars. If the trem knife edges are seated correctly and the screws are adjusted correctly, as they appear to be, my suspicion is the locking tuners are not tightened enough. I have solved slipping strings by cranking down a little more on the locking screw.

 

[dogrocketp]

Whatever you do, DO NOT TURN THE 6 SCREWS THAT THE TREM IS MOUNTED TO THE GUITAR WITH WITHOUT DISCONNECTING THE SPRINGS. If you do, you may permanently ruin the trem. An additional spring should not be necessary. I have several, set up with either 3 or 4 springs depending on the feel of the guitar. I would look at the tuner screws. Also are the top locking screws on the tuners tight? if your luthier, or you haven't tightened them sufficiently, the guitar will not stay in tune.