Lessons Learned - US Parts on SE

[Johnny Rigs]

Like with a lot of things on a guitar “slowly, slowly!”

If tape works, that’s cool.

What can I say, I get excited.

 

[Mazakou]

Some lessons learned on installing the following parts on a 2017 Custom 22 SE
(Please post additional lessons learned of issues you encountered with US parts on your SE, S2, or CE)

- PRS Lampshade knobs
- US HFS/VB
- PRS Pickup Rings
- MannMade NOS2000 Trem
- PRS 3-way, pots (push/pull tone)
- PRS core nut
- PRS core strap buttons
- Switchcraft jack

Do US Lampshade knobs fit on SE pot shaft?
Although I ended up changing to US pots, yes, they did fit on the SE originals. If it's tight or loose, you can adjust the shaft. Best way to remove knobs: a spoon.
[Edit: great tips in the comments about using two spoons or a showstring]

US HFS/VB
Straightforward. Fits in SE pickup rings as well. The killer is to get them mounted on the pickup rings. The spring is very long and strong. Best to install on pickup ring BEFORE even running the wire into the body and soldering. Place pickup upright on a cardboard. That way you can push down, while guiding the screw with one hand and pushing down the screwdriver with the other.
[Edit: just now realizing that the springs on installed pickups are cut shorter. The springs supplied with PRS aftermarket pickups are really long and can easily be cut to proper length for easier install]

PRS Pickup Rings
Note which direction the slant is and install higher edge towards bridge so the pickup slants along the string/neck angle.
The US ring to body screws are thinner than the Korean screws. I put superglue in the holes and let that dry up to make the hole tighter.

MannMade NOS2000 Tremolo
Definitive tone upgrade. Oh so shiny saddles. And the bar has substance compared to the SE bar.
Rule #1: Watch the installation video on his website!
DRILL OUT THE HOLES per included instructions. Although the bridge screws went into my CE without issues, I did drill a little on the SE, but not properly. So I sheared one of the heads. Luckily there were 7 screws included so I was able to complete the install after really drilling out the holes a lot. Be generous shaving the edge and go low speed on the drill. The drill bits were included.
How to get the sheared screw out with only 1/8 of an inch showing? I put a small piece of polishing cloth over it with a hole in the middle so the screw can poke through. Then a wrench to turn out the screw while the cloth protect the body from scratches. I hear John Mann has a cloth covered wrench, but his worked well for me.
I haven't used the claw since the screw spacing is different than SE or CE.

PRS 3-way, pots (push/pull tone)
I got the pre-wired harness from PRS. Saves some time soldering and figuring out connections. It's been 20 years since I wired guitars, so I had to read up a lot on how to wire. The new hardware feels much more solid than the SE parts. The support section on the PRS site has decent diagrams.
Custom 22 SEs don't come with coil split, so this push/pull is great. You could even split the original 85/15'S', but I couldn't exactly figure it out since they seem to be wired slightly different than US pups. But they have the split wire in the cavity.

Stuff to watch out for:
- the tone shaft is higher than the original, so you need some spacers or nuts on the cavity side to offset that and get the right height. US models must have a thicker top at that section. I used the old spacers and nut from the SE pot.
- the switch shaft is SHORTER than the original, so I needed to dremel inside the cavity to make it fit. about 1/16" or so.

Core Nut
The SE nut popped off easily after scoring the edges. The US wide/fat nut is just a tad slimmer, but not biggy. Width is the same, but check out the string spacing! SE looks more like Regular spacing.
Had to scrape off some glue residue with a small file.
The US nut has a solid bottom. The SE has a cavity.
With a bit of superglue, the new nut was secured within seconds.

Core Strap Buttons
The core screws are longer than the SE screws. so a bit more drilling. But no issues with finish flaking at all.

Switchcraft Jack
Nice solid jack, but needed to bend the contacts in a bit to make it fit the hole. Only came with one spacer and nut, so I had to recycle the SE nut for the inside of the jack plate.

So, I've been thinking about doing pretty much the same thing to my se. would you say the changes are worth it? I don't want to buy a 2k Prs and mod it (at that price, it'll have to be perfect as is).

 

[MichaelS]

So, I've been thinking about doing pretty much the same thing to my se. would you say the changes are worth it? I don't want to buy a 2k Prs and mod it (at that price, it'll have to be perfect as is).

The big tickets are pickups and trem...
- the trem is absolutely worth it. I did the same on my CE. Also, the coating on the MannMade trem does not cloud up like the one on my core santana.
- some people like SE pickups, so it wouldn't make sense for them. I found them too harsh. Kinda uncoordinated. And even my wife noticed the difference of the SE pickups to the core Santana sound.
Then again, I swapped CE 85/15 pups with 59/09, so it really comes down to your preference.
Now having all those US parts in there, does take it above the S2 line IMO, if the country of mfg label and veneer does not make a difference to you. Because as far as fit and finish goes, the SE is really solid. Apart from flame top and carve, it's up there with CE, and probably beyond because the stock CE still has an import trem.
- I do like good pots too, so those were worth it too. Also, my CE didn't come with coil split so I was able to add that.

 

[Mazakou]

The big tickets are pickups and trem...
- the trem is absolutely worth it. I did the same on my CE. Also, the coating on the MannMade trem does not cloud up like the one on my core santana.
- some people like SE pickups, so it wouldn't make sense for them. I found them too harsh. Kinda uncoordinated. And even my wife noticed the difference of the SE pickups to the core Santana sound.
Then again, I swapped CE 85/15 pups with 59/09, so it really comes down to your preference.
Now having all those US parts in there, does take it above the S2 line IMO, if the country of mfg label and veneer does not make a difference to you. Because as far as fit and finish goes, the SE is really solid. Apart from flame top and carve, it's up there with CE, and probably beyond because the stock CE still has an import trem.
- I do like good pots too, so those were worth it too. Also, my CE didn't come with coil split so I was able to add that.

Hello, Just out of curiosity you stated that your se upgrades took your se above s2 territory. Only played an s2 satin in my area and for me the neck wasn’t leaps and bounds better. How do you view the two necks other than the obvious pattern differences. I don’t mine the flame veneer (I may even prefer it) or the fact that SEs are made in Indonesia. I am just asking because I had a 2003 CE 24 back in well 03 and I liked it but I ended up selling it. I don’t think i will part with my se custom 24 and I have a 35 anni se on the way. Trying to keep from buying the same guitar over and over but I know I’m going to get another CE. I payed a few and I love the neck.

 

[MichaelS]

Hello, Just out of curiosity you stated that your se upgrades took your se above s2 territory. Only played an s2 satin in my area and for me the neck wasn’t leaps and bounds better. How do you view the two necks other than the obvious pattern differences. I don’t mine the flame veneer (I may even prefer it) or the fact that SEs are made in Indonesia. I am just asking because I had a 2003 CE 24 back in well 03 and I liked it but I ended up selling it. I don’t think i will part with my se custom 24 and I have a 35 anni se on the way. Trying to keep from buying the same guitar over and over but I know I’m going to get another CE. I payed a few and I love the neck.

I don't discriminate much on neck shapes. I like my Santana and R9 all the way to slim 60s or pattern thin on the CE. even slimmer on my old RGX. as long as the shoulders don't get in the way. I do like rolled fingerboards like the Santana has.
So I was referring more to build quality being mostly on par with S2, but S2 would still have import trem and pups, which I don't care for too much. My son took over the SE, but I still enjoy grabbing it here and there. They feel really good.

 

[dogrocketp]

I have found the wood resonance and fretwork on my S2’s to be as good as my core. I do have a few SE’s that I have no intention of selling. My SE’s have needed some fretwork. Admittedly, I’m a fiend about intonation, and I play all over the neck.

 

[Mazakou]

I have found the wood resonance and fretwork on my S2’s to be as good as my core. I do have a few SE’s that I have no intention of selling. My SE’s have needed some fretwork. Admittedly, I’m a fiend about intonation, and I play all over the neck.

Yeah, I don’t even remember how good the fretwork was on the ce I sold ( like a dummy) years ago. Biggest difference I’ve noticed is that that shoulders aren’t as round on an Se. no big deal though my hands aren’t little. One of my SEs may need the frets leveled or the nit is catching the strings. I’ll see.

 

[dogrocketp]

Probably the nut. That’s the only automatic mod on every SE for me.

 

[Mazakou]

Probably the nut. That’s the only automatic mod on every SE for me.

Appreciate it. What’s the best suggestion, I have to get two of them.

 

[bodia]

Appreciate it. What’s the best suggestion, I have to get two of them.

PRS Core nut.

 

[Mazakou]

PRS Core nut.

Affirmative. Thanks. Time to make it so.

 

[Bryan Martin]

Some lessons learned on installing the following parts on a 2017 Custom 22 SE
(Please post additional lessons learned of issues you encountered with US parts on your SE, S2, or CE)

- PRS Lampshade knobs
- US HFS/VB
- PRS Pickup Rings
- MannMade NOS2000 Trem
- PRS 3-way, pots (push/pull tone)
- PRS core nut
- PRS core strap buttons
- Switchcraft jack

Do US Lampshade knobs fit on SE pot shaft?
Although I ended up changing to US pots, yes, they did fit on the SE originals. If it's tight or loose, you can adjust the shaft. Best way to remove knobs: a spoon.
[Edit: great tips in the comments about using two spoons or a showstring]

US HFS/VB
Straightforward. Fits in SE pickup rings as well. The killer is to get them mounted on the pickup rings. The spring is very long and strong. Best to install on pickup ring BEFORE even running the wire into the body and soldering. Place pickup upright on a cardboard. That way you can push down, while guiding the screw with one hand and pushing down the screwdriver with the other.
[Edit: just now realizing that the springs on installed pickups are cut shorter. The springs supplied with PRS aftermarket pickups are really long and can easily be cut to proper length for easier install]

PRS Pickup Rings
Note which direction the slant is and install higher edge towards bridge so the pickup slants along the string/neck angle.
The US ring to body screws are thinner than the Korean screws. I put superglue in the holes and let that dry up to make the hole tighter.

MannMade NOS2000 Tremolo
Definitive tone upgrade. Oh so shiny saddles. And the bar has substance compared to the SE bar.
Rule #1: Watch the installation video on his website!
DRILL OUT THE HOLES per included instructions. Although the bridge screws went into my CE without issues, I did drill a little on the SE, but not properly. So I sheared one of the heads. Luckily there were 7 screws included so I was able to complete the install after really drilling out the holes a lot. Be generous shaving the edge and go low speed on the drill. The drill bits were included.
How to get the sheared screw out with only 1/8 of an inch showing? I put a small piece of polishing cloth over it with a hole in the middle so the screw can poke through. Then a wrench to turn out the screw while the cloth protect the body from scratches. I hear John Mann has a cloth covered wrench, but his worked well for me.
I haven't used the claw since the screw spacing is different than SE or CE.

PRS 3-way, pots (push/pull tone)
I got the pre-wired harness from PRS. Saves some time soldering and figuring out connections. It's been 20 years since I wired guitars, so I had to read up a lot on how to wire. The new hardware feels much more solid than the SE parts. The support section on the PRS site has decent diagrams.
Custom 22 SEs don't come with coil split, so this push/pull is great. You could even split the original 85/15'S', but I couldn't exactly figure it out since they seem to be wired slightly different than US pups. But they have the split wire in the cavity.

Stuff to watch out for:
- the tone shaft is higher than the original, so you need some spacers or nuts on the cavity side to offset that and get the right height. US models must have a thicker top at that section. I used the old spacers and nut from the SE pot.
- the switch shaft is SHORTER than the original, so I needed to dremel inside the cavity to make it fit. about 1/16" or so.

Core Nut
The SE nut popped off easily after scoring the edges. The US wide/fat nut is just a tad slimmer, but not biggy. Width is the same, but check out the string spacing! SE looks more like Regular spacing.
Had to scrape off some glue residue with a small file.
The US nut has a solid bottom. The SE has a cavity.
With a bit of superglue, the new nut was secured within seconds.

Core Strap Buttons
The core screws are longer than the SE screws. so a bit more drilling. But no issues with finish flaking at all.

Switchcraft Jack
Nice solid jack, but needed to bend the contacts in a bit to make it fit the hole. Only came with one spacer and nut, so I had to recycle the SE nut for the inside of the jack plate.

Fantastic post. Did you have any issues with the string spacing with the new nut? How about depth.

 

[MichaelS]

Fantastic post. Did you have any issues with the string spacing with the new nut? How about depth.

No issues on spacing, there was plenty of space between E/e strings and edge of fretboard.
The depth worked out nice too. Dropped right in and depressing 3rd fret leaves just a hair between string and top of first fret. pretty much how it should be with the ability to take it down a hair if necessary.