Is the s2 series a coil split or tap

Mindy-glow-dave

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I've seen some conflicting info on this. It feels like a tap as I don't really get any hum when not in the humbucker mode.

I think ink it sounds nice and one of the more usable split/tap sounds I've heard but does any one have any suggestions for a more single coil sound.

the tones Simon Mcbride was getting even before the switch to the 408 were gorgeous but I've never seen any one really advocating pickups for their split sound.
 
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I've seen some conflicting info on this. It feels like a tap as I don't really get any hum when not in the humbucker mode.

I think ink it sounds nice and one of the more usable split/tap sounds I've heard but does any one have any suggestions for a more single coil sound.

the tones Simon Mcbride was getting even before the switch to the 408 were gorgeous but I've never seen any one really advocating pickups for their split sound.

I'm almost 100% positive that it's a split. While it's not significant unless you run high gain (I typically do), there is definitely a hum when using the split on my S2 Cu24. I'd say my favorite sound that I can get with the coil split is in the middle position. It's a very usable sound, gives me a pretty nice spanky/stratty sound that may not be completely true to a Strat but it's enough to keep me from feeling the need to buy one.
 
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No doubt your right as the more I think about t there is a pronounced drop in volume.

Have you looked into an upgrade in pups or are you happy with the he stock s2's?
 
No doubt your right as the more I think about t there is a pronounced drop in volume.

Have you looked into an upgrade in pups or are you happy with the he stock s2's?
Overall, I'm happy with the S2 versions of the HFS/VB in my Cu24. I'm still in the honeymoon phase with it but they suit my needs and my current play style so I think I'll stick with the pickups in it for now.
 
It's a split, but they use resistors so the other coil isn't 100% grounded, and still contributes partially to the signal. Look at your tone pot, you'll see them. I also find the tone to not be as authentic of a single coil sound as it could be. I guess it's a battle of tone vs output. You can clip the resistors (or just bypass them with some wire if you want to try it without making a permanent change), you'll lose some output but could always hit a boost pedal to get it back.
 
It's a split, but they use resistors so the other coil isn't 100% grounded, and still contributes partially to the signal. Look at your tone pot, you'll see them. I also find the tone to not be as authentic of a single coil sound as it could be. I guess it's a battle of tone vs output. You can clip the resistors (or just bypass them with some wire if you want to try it without making a permanent change), you'll lose some output but could always hit a boost pedal to get it back.

I figured it was a split as well. I wonder why it seems that nobody that builds guitars EVER gets this part right. I've noticed a few companies now putting in a very generic "Coil Tap/Coil Split" in the specs......then just a YES or NO next to it. It would be so very handy to simply know what it REALLY is before you shell out the money. I simply live in a very remote area without music stores. So few seem to know how huge of a difference this is to a "CLEAN" tone player. I appreciate the SPLIT confirmation! Stay groovy!
 
It's a split, but they use resistors so the other coil isn't 100% grounded, and still contributes partially to the signal. Look at your tone pot, you'll see them. I also find the tone to not be as authentic of a single coil sound as it could be. I guess it's a battle of tone vs output. You can clip the resistors (or just bypass them with some wire if you want to try it without making a permanent change), you'll lose some output but could always hit a boost pedal to get it back.

It's a definitely balancing act to keep the output and fullness up, yet making a different enough tone from full mode. In the past, I didn't like splits at all, but I find the PRS method with the resistors works great. They're actually usable, especially performing live.

With the S2 #7 pickups, I thought of the split tones as "humbucker lite" and actually preferred it to the sound of the full buckers. I now have Suhr Thornbuckers and the split sounds are much better to my ears. It can get Strattier and twangier now.

The resistors are wired in series, so if you clip them you must replace them with a bit of wire.

In the vast majority of cases when people say "coil tap" they really mean "coil split". There aren't a lot of pickups that actually tap. The PRS 408 pickups come to mind, and a couple folks have made tappable Tele bridge pickups and P-90s.
 
Just an update on the S2 splitting, I recently switched from pure nickel strings to nickel plated steel (DR Tite Fits), and the split coil tones are sounding a lot more authentic, in terms of having more low end percussion and spank on the wound strings. I think the darker personality of the #7's allows me to do some things I don't normally do, resulting in some unique tones (for me anyways). Digging my S2 more and more.

Also, SCOTT GROVE??? Well, there goes the neighborhood!

:) Just kidding, welcome Scott!
 
All of you are very well educated on this topic. Would one of you be willing to step back and define the terms "coil split" and "coil tap" for those of us who not as well educated (or point us to a web site)?
Thanks much
 
You guys are forgetting another very important kind of tap..

.
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All of you are very well educated on this topic. Would one of you be willing to step back and define the terms "coil split" and "coil tap" for those of us who not as well educated (or point us to a web site)?
Thanks much

It's simple, actually. With a split, the maker of the pickup turns off one of the two humbucker coils. This creates a little noise, as the pickup isn't cancelling out the hum any more, but the advantage is that you have a single coil operating.

With a tap, the pickup is wound differently so that the coil can be tapped into to simulate a single coil tone, but both coils still operate. The idea is for pickup to stay quieter than a coil split configuration.

My feeling is that both techniques can be done well, and each is going to have advantages and disadvantages. To my way of thinking, the most successful humbucker that can be made to sound like a single coil pickup is the 408 (and variants), that keeps some of the windings from the second coil in the mix, and I'm not sure whether it's some sort of hybrid, but it does a great job.
 
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Thanks Les,
I am now clear on the concept.
I have a 513 and when I switch from Humbucker to single coil, I hear quite a bot of hum. Can I assume that the 513 then has a coil split? I went to the PRS web site and it does not say which method was used.
 
I endorse this article: http://www2.fender.com/experience/tech-talk/coil-splitting-and-coil-tapping/

The 408 is a tap, since they talk about leaving 1500 winds or whatever on the second coil. When you flick the mini toggle, it bypasses the remaining wraps of wire so the start coil is still full strength, but the finish coil is weakened. The result is two very unbalanced coils in series which means a little bit of hum, but you get the brighter single coil tone.

With a split, you simply send the signal from one coil to ground. Versus the 408 tap, you lose more output, fullness and hum resistance.

I think of the PRS split with resistors as a sort of "poor man's 408" setup. It is a coil split, but using the resistors prevents some of the signal of the cut coil from going to ground. The degree of bypassed signal is controlled by the value of the resistor. Therefore, like the 408 you keep some more fullness and hum resistance due to the involvement of the series connection. The difference is you're basically turning that coil down instead of taking windings off the pickup. I haven't been able to compare, but I'd expect the 408 to have a sweeter high end and better clarity due to the reduced winds.
 
Thanks Les,
I am now clear on the concept.
I have a 513 and when I switch from Humbucker to single coil, I hear quite a bot of hum. Can I assume that the 513 then has a coil split? I went to the PRS web site and it does not say which method was used.
The 513 is actually 5 single-coil pickups. So I'd call it more of a coil-join when in humbucking mode. But I'm making that term up, it's really no different than coil split.
 
Hey scott, I do enjoy your lessons, thanks

I am going to start a rumour that you're getting a job in the wood library, tone tap testing neck blanks

;) lol...... just messing
 
With the S2 #7 pickups, I thought of the split tones as "humbucker lite" and actually preferred it to the sound of the full buckers. I now have Suhr Thornbuckers and the split sounds are much better to my ears. It can get Strattier and twangier now.
With the new Thornbuckers, are you keeping the resisters for the partial split? Or are you doing a standard full split?

Lindy Fralin recommends his partial coil split kit for splitting vintage output humbuckers, which I'm assuming is basically like the resisters PRS puts in the S2s. Not sure if all humbuckers can be wired like that or if they even should be.
 
I endorse this article: http://www2.fender.com/experience/tech-talk/coil-splitting-and-coil-tapping/

The 408 is a tap, since they talk about leaving 1500 winds or whatever on the second coil. When you flick the mini toggle, it bypasses the remaining wraps of wire so the start coil is still full strength, but the finish coil is weakened. The result is two very unbalanced coils in series which means a little bit of hum, but you get the brighter single coil tone.

With a split, you simply send the signal from one coil to ground. Versus the 408 tap, you lose more output, fullness and hum resistance.

I think of the PRS split with resistors as a sort of "poor man's 408" setup. It is a coil split, but using the resistors prevents some of the signal of the cut coil from going to ground. The degree of bypassed signal is controlled by the value of the resistor. Therefore, like the 408 you keep some more fullness and hum resistance due to the involvement of the series connection. The difference is you're basically turning that coil down instead of taking windings off the pickup. I haven't been able to compare, but I'd expect the 408 to have a sweeter high end and better clarity due to the reduced winds.

I was under the impression the 408 system is a coil split, but is different because it adds 1500 winds to the ACTIVE (slug) coil. This is how it achieves the no volume loss thing, and ends up a bit brighter since the active coil is hotter. Check out the "408 pickups, a closer look" (or whatever it's called) video where PRSh describes and demonstrates the system.

It's been jokingly referred to as "splap" (a combination of coil split and tap) before, maybe we should make that part of the PRS Lexicon if we're in agreeance? :)
 
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