If you could change one thing about a PRS you own, what would it be?

I have a 2016 McCarty 10 top, first thing I changed was the wraparound posts to brass locking posts. The next thing I did was put copper shielding in the control cavity. The next thing I did was change to 2 push/push pots so now I can split each pickup individually. I seriously think all these modifications (maybe not the push/push) should have been standard production on a $4600.00 guitar.
 
I play a 513. It’s my #1 and I’m really happy with it. Still, I wouldn’t mind trying different versions that had a piezo, compound radius, singlecut, thinner neck and maybe even a TOM bridge or the other direction and a Floyd. Individual volume and tone knobs would be cool too.
 
There's something on my Vela that I HAVE to change and that's the push/pull tone pot because the tone control portion of it doesn't work. From day one it was scratchy sounding when going from 10 to 0 but it's now at the point where it doesn't work. Going from 10 to 0 there's no change in tone at all. Yes, I gave it a shot of contact cleaner a few times but it made no dfferance and it only got worse at time progressed. No problem with the push/pull portion.

Thinking about replacing the whole harness with parts of a much higher quality. Any suggestions?
 
There's something on my Vela that I HAVE to change and that's the push/pull tone pot because the tone control portion of it doesn't work. From day one it was scratchy sounding when going from 10 to 0 but it's now at the point where it doesn't work. Going from 10 to 0 there's no change in tone at all. Yes, I gave it a shot of contact cleaner a few times but it made no dfferance and it only got worse at time progressed. No problem with the push/pull portion.

Thinking about replacing the whole harness with parts of a much higher quality. Any suggestions?
Mine is a bit scratchy, but it doesn't bother me because I rarely use a tone control. I split more often, and I don't really hear much of an issue. I swapped the bridge pickup, and I have more problems with the switch now. I may have fried it.
 
There's something on my Vela that I HAVE to change and that's the push/pull tone pot because the tone control portion of it doesn't work. From day one it was scratchy sounding when going from 10 to 0 but it's now at the point where it doesn't work. Going from 10 to 0 there's no change in tone at all. Yes, I gave it a shot of contact cleaner a few times but it made no dfferance and it only got worse at time progressed. No problem with the push/pull portion.

Thinking about replacing the whole harness with parts of a much higher quality. Any suggestions?
I gutted mine when I replaced the pickups. Upgraded to CTS pots, Switchcraft jack, vintage style braided wiring, and upgraded caps and treble bleed.
 
Electronics, and I almost always do.

Usually change the pickups. ALWAYS change the pots. They use the el cheapo cts and alpha they probably buy for $2 a piece or less in bulk, and they always measure low, usually quite low, and make $6k guitars sound meh. I always replace with wd/cts tight tolerance pots that measure 500k plus and even with stock pickups, big improvement.
 
I'd prefer a flatter fretboard. If it's not a compound radius fretboard I'd like a 12" radius instead of the 10" radius.
 
most likely the pickups. I like , not love , my '92 era pickups but I know PRS makes much better ones now. I just want to keep everything original on this one. and then maybe just a little beefier neck profile.
 
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It'd be the 5-way blade on my WL CU24. Completely unreachable when the whammy bar is in.

I like the sounds I can get from the switching, but the location is just borked.

My next PRS will likely be either a Tremonti or a flavor of 24-08, partially for this reason.

This!! The blade switch location is sooo awkward. The McCarty Vol Tone Toggle with push-pull is much more accessible, or the 35th Anniversary layout. I think the latter should be made standard.
 
For the folks who like satin necks , try a sheet of 3000 grit Wet sandpaper , go easy , you just want to "break " the glaze , not take the finish off.
Here in Atlanta , I've found most of my clients prefer the satin in the warm humid weather.
 
For the folks who like satin necks , try a sheet of 3000 grit Wet sandpaper , go easy , you just want to "break " the glaze , not take the finish off.
Here in Atlanta , I've found most of my clients prefer the satin in the warm humid weather.
I just use the gritty side of a ScotchBrite sponge.
 
I don’t think I’d have the cajónes to take a pad or paper to a core PRS neck.

Hats off to you gents.
Yeah, I find myself searching for my balls every time I even think about doing this with any of my PRSi (Core, WL and PS)! And I have no intention of ever selling them, so what's the issuen my no-nuts strut, right? If it was my strat, I would have already done it, but it came that way. As did my EBMM Stingray and I LOVE the feel from my experience with those! Oh well, nuts in hell!!! Maybe someday!!!
 
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