Black Plaid
Other Alan!
I dunno about anyone else, but I'm getting old. Any lift heavier than a corgi, and I am risking some kind of injury. no offense
I dunno about anyone else, but I'm getting old. Any lift heavier than a corgi, and I am risking some kind of injury. no offense
I go to the Y 5 days a week. I still lift fairly heavy weights 3 days a week and have for roughly 45 continuous years. I’m almost (key word) as strong as I was at 30. However, I’m still leery of lifting a 100 lb. cab into the back of my SUV. Can I do it? Absolutely, but there’s no guarantee that I’m not going to hurt my back if I’m not careful. If a bandmate is with me, I’ll have them help me. I’ve had back trouble (sciatica) before and its no picnic. Why take a chance?
So, does weight play a factor in my equipment choices? Absolutely. And, it’s a big reason I’ve switched to Kemper or Headrush and use Headrush FRFR powered cabs.
Awesome, I think this really sealed it for me: Custom 20 it is.
Oh, wait, or Custom 50??
Cool story bro, how far can you maintain a 6 min/mi pace? How long can you hump a 110 lb ruck without stopping? How many operations have you had on your knees/back? What's your body fat comp? Your personal and families medical history?
Yeah, you can help him bro: don't be a dick. (I take it back, I suspect I'd never call you brother)
No ones life should be ruled by how others treat/talk to them, but then again, no one should have to listen to a blowhard when they come to talk about music.
Free speech isn't just a right, it's a responsibility. How about you practice some?
Anyway, I wanted to support a couple great recommendations here (there were way more than a couple!). Don’t be afraid of the power designation of an amp as an indicator of possible volume. Think of it as an indicator of character. This is due to having the headroom in the power section (transformers in particular) to give clean channels the ability to be pristine. Also makes it possible to turn up your edge-of-breakup setting so you can allow the guitar volume control and picking dynamics dictate your grit and output. This is a feature set that I’ve grown dependent upon. This is where the seriously cool zone resides for me.
Not backwards, exactly. You have to think about certain amps differently, though. Certain amp designs cannot be approached the same as others. Case in point: Mesa/Boogie Mark series and a Marshall Plexi. The Boogie is not designed to have the master cranked for power stage breakup the way the Plexi is. You don’t approach them or set them the same way, at all! You let the preamp stage do their cascaded gain thing and tweak tone controls to the way it sounds, not a number on the dial. The controls are so interdependent that a slight twist on the volume knob changes the response of the bass, mid, treble...heck, everything! The Plexi can be dimed on all controls and get a reasonably decent sound out of the box. Not my cup of tea, but people have been waxing in this regard since the late 60s. So, don’t view the Archon (think Boogie) and Custom (think modern Plexi-ish) in the same light.Yeah, I really dig this. I'm looking at it from the perspective that this will not be a primary amp, more of something to have to play with. I don't want to *have* to crank it up to get it to break up where I want, b/c I bought more power than I needed.
Is that backwards thinking?
Another weird thing: Why can't I find the Custom line on the PRS page? Are they not being made in 2019?
Never was much of a runner. So what? Like I said, I never deployed but, everybody I talked to who did said military cardio standards vs reality is extremely skewed.
Being good at PT doesn't make anybody an effective troop. It's only a piece of the puzzle.
Humping hills with a ruck was never an issue for me. I did better than most, not as good as some.
Because you asked, I'll tell you that in boot camp, we had a 12 miler with I think 135lbs plus IBA, Kevlar, canteens, and rifle.
With my unit, we had a few 15 milers on mostly flat ground with...idk...80-ish lbs plus other gear? Maybe 85lbs?
Again, that's only one piece of the puzzle.
Body fat now? Off the charts. Back then? Pretty damn good.
Nobody's rights end where others' "feewings" begin. Period. If we all thought that way, then the British would still rule over us.
Time for work.
Not backwards, exactly. You have to think about certain amps differently, though. Certain amp designs cannot be approached the same as others. Case in point: Mesa/Boogie Mark series and a Marshall Plexi. The Boogie is not designed to have the master cranked for power stage breakup the way the Plexi is. You don’t approach them or set them the same way, at all! You let the preamp stage do their cascaded gain thing and tweak tone controls to the way it sounds, not a number on the dial. The controls are so interdependent that a slight twist on the volume knob changes the response of the bass, mid, treble...heck, everything! The Plexi can be dimed on all controls and get a reasonably decent sound out of the box. Not my cup of tea, but people have been waxing in this regard since the late 60s. So, don’t view the Archon (think Boogie) and Custom (think modern Plexi-ish) in the same light.
Yeah, I really dig this. I'm looking at it from the perspective that this will not be a primary amp, more of something to have to play with. I don't want to *have* to crank it up to get it to break up where I want, b/c I bought more power than I needed.
Is that backwards thinking?
Another weird thing: Why can't I find the Custom line on the PRS page? Are they not being made in 2019?
Unfortunately, no. I think they were dropped in 2018, or maybe 2019?Another weird thing: Why can't I find the Custom line on the PRS page? Are they not being made in 2019?
As a bit of information, half power on many 4-power-tube amps drops out two tubes, and the remaining tubes stay in pentode mode.
For two-tube output stages, half, power moves them to triode mode, with a different tone, usually a bit spongier and less bold.
Technically speaking, tetrode (4 terminal) and pentode (5 terminal) tubes are more efficient than triode (3 terminal) modes/tubes. Using these modes to alter power works, but the audio characteristics do change.
A triode uses high voltage to send electrons from the cathode through a vacuum and smash into the plate, controlled by the grid voltage.
Pentode and tetrode tubes add screens to focus the beam and slow down the elections at the plate so they stick better and don't bounce off. Pretty cool details to a nerd like me. Changing from pentode to triode mode just shuts off the screen effect, though it may rebias the grid as well.
Anyway, it's a combination of the total power and the efficiency that gives the dynamic response or lack thereof.
Unfortunately, no. I think they were dropped in 2018, or maybe 2019?
That wouldn't stop me from getting one, but we're all different.
I bought my Custom 50 used on Reverb. I sort of knew what I was getting into because I already owned a H combo.Thanks for that, I think I understood half of it.
So the custom is triode, right?
Agreed, I'm pretty set on a Custom 20. It just changes my idea on who to call to see what they can do for me.
Thanks for that, I think I understood half of it.
So the custom is triode, right?
Agreed, I'm pretty set on a Custom 20. It just changes my idea on who to call to see what they can do for me.
The custom 20 uses 2x5881 tubes, same as the Archon 25. The 5881 is a low power version of a 6L6 that I believe runs in pentode mode.
As a bit of information, half power on many 4-power-tube amps drops out two tubes, and the remaining tubes stay in pentode mode.
For two-tube output stages, half, power moves them to triode mode, with a different tone, usually a bit spongier and less bold.
Ok, new question:
I'm diggin all of this talk, but it's killing me that I don't understand any of it. Is there a book you'd recommend to get started down the path? Assume a solid electrical background, and a desired end state of buying and building a kit tube amp project.
Ok, new question:
I'm diggin all of this talk, but it's killing me that I don't understand any of it. Is there a book you'd recommend to get started down the path? Assume a solid electrical background, and a desired end state of buying and building a kit tube amp project.