Holy grail setup?

[Draconomics]

So, for my guitar setups, I dont futz around much. Most everything is dialed in to PRS suggested specs, maybe a hair lower action, and everything has 8s on them. Neck relief is always set around .007-.009, two springs on the trem. The places where I do adjustments are in mods, nut swaps, high grit fret polishes/spot levels, saddle swaps, tuner upgrades, etc. Generally I do truss adjustments once a season, and thats it. Suffice to say, no guitar Ive ever played or worked on is as stable as a PRS, and that includes SE models too.

Surprisingly, Ive had no issues with trems, so long as I stick to a certain string size and brand. Once setup for a specific guage and tension (hence the brand) we're good to go.

 

[jak3af3r]

I used to be really picky about setups so much so I couldn't play other brands of guitars because of the scale length, radius, etc.

I eventually collected the "must-haves" (LP, Strat, and a BUNCH of teles) and gigged those to keep the PRSi in decent shape. I've realized I have an acceptable range of actions before I have to adjust anything.

I think a lot of that came from playing gigs where the guitars would experience extremes in temperatures and humidity.

What I found to be more frustrating was the inconsistent food situation being on the road. The varying sodium levels and water retention of my fingers plus the humidity or lack thereof in the room could make or break a show.

 

[vchizzle]

I generally use the PRS setup as my starting point. I hate buzz, so if I have any buzz I’ll tweak the truss rod for a hair more relief. I like to get under the strings a bit on bends so I’d rather have a bit more relief than the board super flat. Probably varies a bit from guitar to guitar. I need a little fret work done on my PS and the Star Wars guitar as they have the most wear on the frets, can’t quite get optimal set ups now.

 

[Southwest]

So for you guys who measure, do you keep it to the PRS spec? (0.05"-.010" relief at the 9th fret, action at 2/32" top E at the 12th fret, 5/64" low E at the 12th fret etc?) That's what mine is set to but I'm tempted to lower it. Anyone else running much lower action? Did you just move the saddles down or did it need further truss rod or bridge tweaks?
(I'm talking about a Core Custom 22 with floating trem and I play with 9-42 strings if that matters).

 

[11top]

So for you guys who measure, do you keep it to the PRS spec? (0.05"-.010" relief at the 9th fret, action at 2/32" top E at the 12th fret, 5/64" low E at the 12th fret etc?) That's what mine is set to but I'm tempted to lower it. Anyone else running much lower action? Did you just move the saddles down or did it need further truss rod or bridge tweaks?
(I'm talking about a Core Custom 22 with floating trem and I play with 9-42 strings if that matters).

I’m not answering your question directly, because I don’t measure, but I can tell you I generally lower the action a smidge. I do so usually by turning the TR about a quarter for a slightly flatter board.

 

[László]

I’m not answering your question directly, because I don’t measure, but I can tell you I generally lower the action a smidge. I do so usually by turning the TR about a quarter for a slightly flatter board.

I'm going to guess that's what Jack does for mine, because I like slightly less relief as well.

 

[Draconomics]

So for you guys who measure, do you keep it to the PRS spec? (0.05"-.010" relief at the 9th fret, action at 2/32" top E at the 12th fret, 5/64" low E at the 12th fret etc?) That's what mine is set to but I'm tempted to lower it. Anyone else running much lower action? Did you just move the saddles down or did it need further truss rod or bridge tweaks?
(I'm talking about a Core Custom 22 with floating trem and I play with 9-42 strings if that matters).

So, the answer for me is yes. I use PRS spec as a basis, and depending on what the instrument will allow, tweak from there. The lowest action Ive achieved while allowing solid bends is 3/64" Treble and 4/64" Bass, but that required a tiny amount spot leveling. I would say at that amount, all the frets need to be dead level or its choke city. Generally, PRS requires about zero fret work, even the SE line is dead on most of the time, but there aint much play when we get that low so the whole guitar needs to be dialed in.

Truss rod adjustments I keep right around .007-.009, kind of a happy medium inside what PRS recommends, and you wanna measure at the 8th fret.

 

[Southwest]

Thanks guys that's really helpful. In reality if 1/64" is the biggest reduction I'm likely to see without buzzing, choking out or fret-work I probably won't bother. I love the completely clean bends I get from mine when I attempt (badly) the Gilmour-style stuff. Maybe I should buy back the Jem I traded against my PRS 20 years ago. That had an action measured in microns! But given I traded it then because I was too old for a bright pink guitar, maybe not...

 

[alantig]

I’m not answering your question directly, because I don’t measure, but I can tell you I generally lower the action a smidge. I do so usually by turning the TR about a quarter for a slightly flatter board.

I'm going to guess that's what Jack does for mine, because I like slightly less relief as well.

Huh. As I've gotten older, I've found I like a little more relief, and I prefer not to send out to have it done. In fact, lately I've been getting up at night to relieve myself.

 

[dmatthews]

You can adjust stuff?

 

[ViperDoc]

Every time I break out the relief guage and set up a guitar properly, I wonder why in the hell I don't do it more often.

 

[Going Modal]

I tend to find that the most difficult/tedious part of a complete setup is setting the string-height in a "balanced" fashion fully across the 2nd through 5th strings. 1st & 6th are easy--and most recommended setup specs typically show these numbers (only). But depending on fretboard radius, the gauges of strings being used, etc. (and most importantly, your own hands and ears!) there's no definitive guide to doing this. I tend to put the wound strings near the 6th's height, and the plain strings near the 1st's height, and then adjust by feel/sound from there, ultimately seeking "balanced" sound & feel.

EDIT: I forgot... this is super easy on my fixed wrap-around PRS bridges--because it's moot! Easy peasy...

 

[ViperDoc]

I tend to find that the most difficult/tedious part of a complete setup is setting the string-height in a "balanced" fashion fully across the 2nd through 5th strings. 1st & 6th are easy--and most recommended setup specs typically show these numbers (only). But depending on fretboard radius, the gauges of strings being used, etc. (and most importantly, your own hands and ears!) there's no definitive guide to doing this. I tend to put the wound strings near the 6th's height, and the plain strings near the 1st's height, and then adjust by feel/sound from there, ultimately seeking "balanced" sound & feel.

EDIT: I forgot... this is super easy on my fixed wrap-around PRS bridges--because it's moot! Easy peasy...

You can always get a radius gauge from Stewmac.

https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-too...d-fingerboards/understring-radius-gauges.html

 

[Going Modal]

You can always get a radius gauge from Stewmac.

Yeah--good point. I meant to mention those. I have some cardboard-y ones that came in the back of a Dan Erlewine setup book. However, I still feel like some final adjustments "to feel & sound" are still necessary after even this.

 

[11top]

Huh. As I've gotten older, I've found I like a little more relief, and I prefer not to send out to have it done. In fact, lately I've been getting up at night to relieve myself.

Just once? You’re lucky, youngster.

 

[11top]

You can always get a radius gauge from Stewmac.

https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-too...d-fingerboards/understring-radius-gauges.html

I have one of those, but the only time I use it is when a potential buyer asks. For me personally, it’s all about feel.

 

[alantig]

Just once? You’re lucky, youngster.

Most nights, just once. Others, well...

This is how I know I'm old. Now when I get up overnight, my wife is worried something may be wrong. It used to be when I got up overnight, she was worried I wanted to get her involved.

 

[ViperDoc]

Yeah--good point. I meant to mention those. I have some cardboard-y ones that came in the back of a Dan Erlewine setup book. However, I still feel like some final adjustments "to feel & sound" are still necessary after even this.

I have one of those, but the only time I use it is when a potential buyer asks. For me personally, it’s all about feel.

Guides will indeed only get you so far. Your intuition, that's a whole 'nuther matter.

 

[László]

Just once? You’re lucky, youngster.

Haha!

I can relate.

 

[Draconomics]

I tend to find that the most difficult/tedious part of a complete setup is setting the string-height in a "balanced" fashion fully across the 2nd through 5th strings. 1st & 6th are easy--and most recommended setup specs typically show these numbers (only). But depending on fretboard radius, the gauges of strings being used, etc. (and most importantly, your own hands and ears!) there's no definitive guide to doing this. I tend to put the wound strings near the 6th's height, and the plain strings near the 1st's height, and then adjust by feel/sound from there, ultimately seeking "balanced" sound & feel.

EDIT: I forgot... this is super easy on my fixed wrap-around PRS bridges--because it's moot! Easy peasy...

Yeah, if you want to match fretboard radius, that can be a challenge, but dont fret about it too much. I just eyeball it. Set the high e, set the low E, and adjust the saddles into a very shallow arc, nearly flat. After that, beer time.