I went to a guitar "mega" store up in Middletown NY, Alto. I was simply going to browse as my friends kept telling how great this place was...at least that was the plan. I really didn't need to buy anything, and am not really in a position to drop big coin on gear being between jobs right now, but as my buddy says, that what severance is for. Well I made the "mistake" of plugging into an Archon 50/25 combo amp and was immediately smitten, I've been eyeing an Archon for a while. The distortion channel on this thing is so good I may be able to ditch my dirt pedals. We spent 45 minutes in that store, milling about and I must have walked back to the area the amp was in several times...hemming and hawing...being egged on by my buddy. After asking if it came with a foot switch to change between clean and dirty channels...and praying it didn't so it would be easier to walk away...I broke down and bought it. I absolutely love it, I really like an amp with 6L6 tubes. One thing I don't understand is the foot switchable loop. What is the purpose/benefit of being able to switch the effects loop on and off? Also, I have been seeing reference to being able to put in EL34s in it, not that I want to...see my previous comment of my love for 6L6s...just not sure how it would work without some sort of switch like I've seen on other amps that take different tube types...I think Mesas have that. Now I have a Blues Jr and a couple of other things to sell to offset the price.
Nice to drop off and on a delay pedal for one example of switchable effects loop, especially if you have multiple pedals to switch at once
Congrats! F/X loop switchers are also the best way to drive yourself insane by playing the game titled “does the loop sound better or worse?”
That's it? Huh, would have though it was more involved. Again, I don't plan to try but its neat to know it can be done.
Nice! If pedals you run in a loop are pedals you keep on the board, sure, you can bypass them with their own switches, but there are other types of setups where it’s really necessary to switch off the loop. Say, for example, that you’re running a traditional tape echo in the loop - its remote bypass switch keeps the tape machine’s preamp in the signal path, so you’re better off switching the loop out if you just want to hear the amp. Same is true if you’re using rack effects, or if pedals in the loop are not on your pedalboard. For example, some players keep amp loop pedals on top of the amp to keep cable runs shorter for less noise, or to adjust controls more easily. Point is, it simply adds to an amp’s versatility.
I didn't add pictures because I figured if you've seen one black tolex covered amp you've seen them all. It's not like it's a wicked flame maple top. But since you asked, here it is with added interest. And the back
NOW it's official! Yes, we've seen the amps before. Doesn't stop us from wanting to share in the excitement. If you don't fall in love with that amp IMMEDIATELY, then you need to try other speakers to find "the one" for you, because the amp is AWESOME!!!
I see, but it seems your kind of locked in to one setting. Like if you have a flanger, delay and octave pedals in the loop, if you turn the loop on/off to engage them, you can only run them all on as apposed to running different combinations of them. I'm not poo pooing it, I just don't see it being useful for my current situation. Thank you for the explanation.
Oh I absolutely loved it from the second I plugged in. I have a problem now, I plugged my pedal board in to see how the two play together and it was magic. Wampler's Triple Wreck was made for this amp. But after 5 minutes of noodling around at a moderate bedroom level so as not to disturb any of my neighbors who might be home on a Thursday afternoon...ah condo life...I heard a pop and lost all sound. The power light on the front panel was still on but no sound. I removed the pedal board from the signal chain and tried two different cables directly into the amp and still have nothing. I tried removing the foot switch, I tried the 50watt setting, Manually tried the two channels...nada!!!! It did seem much noisier (60 cycle hum?) than when I was playing it the other day without the pedal board, not sure if that indicates anything. No other electronics, i.e. TV, were on in the area. I can't seem to figure out how to get the fuse on the back out, the one where the power cord goes in. Anyone know the trick? I don't want to go prying too hard on anything if it needs to be returned. At the risk of sounding overly dramatic I'm absolutely heart broken, I know they'll make it right one way or another but still... BTW, the store I got it at is over an hour away so I can't really go there anytime soon.
man, sorry to hear that. 99% of the time, it's tubes or fuses. Sometimes both, as a tube can take out a fuse. So, "rule #1" check the tubes first. But if even visually they all look OK, then start checking fuses. I know it's a hassle... especially when it's new, but these things are VERY well built, and this will last you for decades. And if it is an actual issue, they'll get it fixed and you'll be rocking again.
All 4 fuses test fine. The power tubes glow a nice orange when it's on. I'm going to cycle through the preamp tubes.
Most of the popular pedal switchers and remote pedal boxes (like the Voodoo Lab GCX and many others) have MIDI control functions that can change amp channels, control amp loops, and turn on, bypass, and select patches on outboard gear. These are usually preprogrammed for certain songs, and all of the settings are called up with a single button push. Having the ability to shut down the loop with a switch Is kind of a fail-safe in case of problems as well, and can prevent noise and hiss from bypassed gear’s connections. As you said, you personally don’t need these functions. Being in a studio setting, I don’t either (hell, I don’t even use loops at all with my amps) but on stages and tours, lots of folks absolutely need them, and manufacturers want to provide professional features for their amps when possible.
So I'm at a loss as to what to do and could use some advice. So the issue is, the amp isn't completely dead but it has lost almost all its volume. If I crank both volume knobs on both channels I DO get a little bit of volume out of each channel...more out of the gain channel obviously..., not so much that you can't talk over it but not any where near what it should be...I'm talking the knobs are at full. I only mention this as a means for someone possibly knowing what the issue is. I've tried new power and preamp tubes and nothing changes and all 4 fuses are good. Where I'm at a loss is, the store doesn't have one to exchange it with. They are looking to see if another is still available, which I find odd because I asked the salesman if it was a current model before I bought it and he assured me it was. They're supposed to call tomorrow, and I'm on pins and needles. I've discovered I got it for a pretty good price, $1450 since it was the floor model. So I could return it and get a refund but not find another one at that price...remember I'm between jobs and it was probably an irresponsible purchase in the first place but hey, when you find the perfect piece of gear...and your buddy is egging you on to buy it...you bite the bullet. Option 2 is contact the PTC to see if they can do anything but that means finding a box to ship it in I'm assuming. Option 3, wait for one of Sweetwater's 25% off E-Mails to come in and hope they still have one in stock to order. Or option 4 Get one used off of Reverb, there's one listed for 850 but I'd rather not go used. Thanks for listening to my tale of woe. Any advice would be appreciated. John
If it’s new and it’s not perfect, take it back. If they can’t easily make it perfect, get a refund. There will be other deals.
I say get your new one fixed. The store should have a box and even if they don’t have the box it came in, they should be able to get you another suitable box to ship it in if you have too. Again, I know it’s a bummer when you buy something nice and it stops working right away. But these amps are built like tanks. Saying again, most “parts failures” either happen a few hours in, or else they don’t happen for decades. No matter how carefully you build and test, there is no way to screen parts that might fail pre-maturely unless you get super lucky and they fail during burn in at the factory. A year from now, you’ll be telling us how much you love this amp and this story will be a distant memory. Get it fixed and so you can enjoy what you paid for.
