Well, considering my lack of skill diagnosing electronics, and given the lack of anyone remotely resembling local to me that is able to do this type of diagnostic work, on top of the fact that the amp is within its factory warranty period, I don't think it's unreasonable for me to expect PRS to actually honor their manufacturer's warranty.Its a shorted tube, blowing up the fuse. Like 9/10 times. OP is to resistant to accept simple troubleshooting advice
And there may be no recovering from that one! Unless of course, you sold it to a forum brother. Then, while still highly suspect, it's at least somewhat acceptable.Gotta rotate out a couple to keep Mount Vesuvius from erupting. Kept the Matchless, HiTone and Little Walter, but had to put the HXDA 50 up for sale.
The Forum Jury then finds me Guilty of Wrongful Sale of a HXDA.
Well, considering my lack of skill diagnosing electronics, and given the lack of anyone remotely resembling local to me that is able to do this type of diagnostic work, on top of the fact that the amp is within its factory warranty period, I don't think it's unreasonable for me to expect PRS to actually honor their manufacturer's warranty.
Quoting myself, to link this. Totally forgot about it. Im still recommending buying at least the most basic DMMThe cheapest DMM on amazon is 8 quid. Way cheaper than sending the amp to PRS for a fuse swap
I'm not trying to be hard on you, but its not only isolated to PRS. The vacuum valve short is super common and 9/10 is the reason for amp going dead silentI don't care if I wind up having to pay PRS to get the amp back up and running, the problem I have is that they wanted me to incur expense before they even considered looking at it to determine if it is a warranty related fix or blown tube which is admittedly outside of the 90 day warranty period. PRS is definitely falling lower on my list of trusted brands.
Quoting myself, to link this. Totally forgot about it. Im still recommending buying at least the most basic DMM
Yeah, no further advice though, if you dont have a phone or a DMM
This is not rocket science. The problem is you can't answer a basic question that will tell them whether it's a tube or warranty item.I don't care if I wind up having to pay PRS to get the amp back up and running, the problem I have is that they wanted me to incur expense before they even considered looking at it to determine if it is a warranty related fix or blown tube which is admittedly outside of the 90 day warranty period.
You're probably falling lower on their list of trusted customers; I'll call it a tie.PRS is definitely falling lower on my list of trusted brands.
When I got my Egnater Tweaker, it had an intermittant loss of volume, preceded by a fizzing sound. When it did it, I turned it off and waited. It would work fine for a week and then do it again. I did basic trouble shooting, and all tubes looked good and were glowing evenly, etc. After talking to Bruce Egnater himself, he said I could send it in since I just bought it, but I told him I'd at least try rolling in known good tubes one at a time. When I got to V3, the tube was slightly tilted in the tube socket, so not fully seated. I removed it and coated the pins with DeOxit like I always do, put it back in and made sure it was fully seated. I had the amp for 4 years after that and never had the issue again.This is not rocket science. The problem is you can't answer a basic question that will tell them whether it's a tube or warranty item.
No tools are required. You put in some tubes known to work, and see if the amp has any more issues. Your dealer should be able to provide a pair of tubes and a fuse to check with, even if you have none on hand.
PRS are being perfectly reasonable.
You're probably falling lower on their list of trusted customers; I'll call it a tie.![]()
Bruce is a super-nice guy; he's from my neck of the woods. By coincidence, my former law partner (back in the day) is his cousin. I had a chance to talk with him at a party she gave some time in the '90s after I got into the music biz.When I got my Egnater Tweaker, it had an intermittant loss of volume, preceded by a fizzing sound. When it did it, I turned it off and waited. It would work fine for a week and then do it again. I did basic trouble shooting, and all tubes looked good and were glowing evenly, etc. After talking to Bruce Egnater himself, he said I could send it in since I just bought it, but I told him I'd at least try rolling in known good tubes one at a time. When I got to V3, the tube was slightly tilted in the tube socket, so not fully seated. I removed it and coated the pins with DeOxit like I always do, put it back in and made sure it was fully seated. I had the amp for 4 years after that and never had the issue again.
Bruce said it could have been jarred in shipping and I agree that's possible, but, A) those tube sockets were good and tight, no tubes would be slipping out of them from a drop, and B) they had tube retainers on them. I figured it just wasn't pushed all the way in when it was built, and even a quick 15 minute test didn't show any issue. But in the end, it wasn't even a gad tube, it was just not fully seated.
Yes, Bruce was VERY cool and nice. Remember the Tweaker was a very cheap, overseas amp, but he was quite proud of the design (rightfully) and wanted to make sure things were right. He's definitely a legend in the field.Bruce is a super-nice guy; he's from my neck of the woods. By coincidence, my former law partner (back in the day) is his cousin. I had a chance to talk with him at a party she gave some time in the '90s after I got into the music biz.
The first amp with his name on it that I got to try out was in the early '90s; it was very cool, anodized aluminum in a bright color (might have been red or purple?), sounded killer. At some point (also in the '90s) he joined forces with Rocktron, another local company, and I had one of the amps that were built here. It was fantastic, a 1x12 combo with a beautiful, open tone.
Naturally, I traded it in on something I also no longer have.
I dunno about DeOxit. I used the red stuff for a while on patch bay plugs and jacks - no idea if that was the right formula, all of them are for different things - but it seemed to build up in a gloopy sticky way, so I started using isopropyl alcohol. I figured eventually dust would stick to the sticky surface and screw things up. I still clean the pins on tubes with isopropyl alcohol. Gets 'em clean and evaporates, no gloop.
Not that I have any idea what I'm doing with maintenance of electronic gear, by the way. I just don't like gloop.
I should have made clear, I did use DeOxit on my patchbay for a while, but had to stop using it in the '90s.DeOxit is a cleaner/contact enhancer. I've used it for many years on stereo equipment and guitar gear. In fact, started using it after using alcohol as it cleans better and does leave behind a contact enhancing/oxidation prohibiting layer, but definitely no gunk.
As per the above, my pots don't need cleaning. So I don't need the stuff.It's pretty much the standard for pot cleaning. With all your gear and care of same, I'm surprised you aren't practically a paid endorser! It's good stuff.
Changing the tubes or testing fuses is as life threatening as playing electric guitar or turning the kettle onIt's arrived back at PRS. Hopefully it gets sorted out, even if I wind up being out the cost of new tubes. I don't screw with electronic anything. I have a deep seated fear of electrocution after a not so fun childhood experience.
I won’t be surprised if they fix it at no charge. One way or another, you’ll have a working amp again. That’s a good thing.It's arrived back at PRS. Hopefully it gets sorted out, even if I wind up being out the cost of new tubes. I don't screw with electronic anything. I have a deep seated fear of electrocution after a not so fun childhood experience.
Output transformer?UPDATE! The Archon is headed back to me from PRS. The diagnosis was a bad input transformer that was replaced under warranty.