Hans' Standard Mods: Stoptail & Trem Bridges

]-[@n$0Ma☩!©

Zombie Zero, DFZ
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Aug 1, 1985
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I see a lot of posts lately asking about common mods for PRS guitars so I thought I'd share my thoughts. While I am never a fan of making modifications to a guitar unless they improve the instrument for MY needs/tastes, there is certainly some benefit to sharing what we've done, how we've done it, and the results of the mods we've made so others can make more informed decisions. To that end, I offer you the first two of four modifications I make to almost every PRS I own. One mod is for the stoptail bridge and the other is for the trem bridge.

It is fair to say that I detest sharp edges on a guitar. My style includes a lot funky licks and palm-muting so the heel of my right hand is grinding on the bridge in one way or another most of the time. I immediately notice any sharp edge(s) on a bridge. Such is the case with the end of stoptail bridges - just above the upper bridge stud.

i-sFMzS9q.jpg


To resolve this, all you need is a hobby filing kit and a set of micro mesh pads (3,000-12,000 grit). First, get rid of those evil sharp edges, but just those that extend past the top of the bridge stud.

i-LxWV3s3.jpg


Then get after it with your Micro-Mesh, starting at 1,500 or 3,000 grit until you finish with 12,000 grit. The finished product will look something like this.

i-BpXWJFL.jpg


When you reinstall the bridge with new strings, it will look like this. You'll wonder why you didn't make this mod years ago.

i-zSPTpjm.jpg


I make a similar change to every tremolo bridge. Note the corner of the low 'E' saddle (against the trem) relative to the corners of the 'A' and the 'D' saddle. The photo isn't sharp but you get the idea. And it's so nice when its done. While you're there, shorten the grub screws by filing down the side under the saddle (if they are not already counter-sunk into the saddle). Those will shred your hand too.

i-mcmRJCf.jpg


Here is a look at the same mod on nickel-plated saddles.

i-nTzCLbm.jpg
 
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I see a lot of posts lately asking about common mods for PRS guitars so I thought I'd share my thoughts. While I am never a fan of making modifications to a guitar unless they improve the instrument for MY needs/tastes, there is certainly some benefit to sharing what we've done, how we've done it, and the results of the mods we've made so others can make more informed decisions. To that end, I offer you the first two of four modifications I make to almost every PRS I own. One mod is for the stoptail bridge and the other is for the trem bridge.

It is fair to say that I detest sharp edges on a guitar. My style includes a lot funky licks and palm-muting so the heel of my right hand is grinding on the bridge in one way or another most of the time. I immediately notice any sharp edge(s) on a bridge. Such is the case with the end of stoptail bridges - just above the upper bridge stud.

i-sFMzS9q.jpg


To resolve this, all you need is a hobby filing kit and a set of micro mesh pads (3,000-12,000 grit). First, get rid of those evil sharp edges, but just those that extend past the top of the bridge stud.

i-LxWV3s3.jpg


Then get after it with your Micro-Mesh, starting at 1500 or 300 grit until you finish with 12,000 grit. The finished product will look something like this. When you reinstall the bridge with new strings, it will look like this. You'll wonder why you didn't make this mod years ago.

i-zSPTpjm.jpg


I make a similar change to every tremolo bridge. Note the corner of the low 'E' saddle (against the trem) relative to the corners of the 'A' and the 'D' saddle. The photo isn't sharp but you get the idea. And it's so nice when its done. While you're there, short the grub screws if they are not counter-sunk into the saddle. Those shrewd your hand too.

i-mcmRJCf.jpg


Here is a look at the same mod on nickel-plated saddles.

i-nTzCLbm.jpg

Hmmmmm......that red looks oddly familiar ;)
 
Dude! That's so simple, it's brilliant! [goes to find angle grinder and hacksaw]

Sharp edges...wasn't there a Markie mod involving sharp (wood) edges? My mind is going.
 
Sharp edges...wasn't there a Markie mod involving sharp (wood) edges? My mind is going.

Not sure. The Markie Mod is usually where the volume pot is moved further back. He and I once ordered PS guitars that were supposed to have another 'Hans' mod'. That's where the upper-edge of the top of the guitar (forearm area) was a lot less less sharp.
 
Not sure. The Markie Mod is usually where the volume pot is moved further back. He and I once ordered PS guitars that were supposed to have another 'Hans' mod'. That's where the upper-edge of the top of the guitar (forearm area) was a lot less less sharp.

That was it! I didn't remember that you were involved, too. Makes sense, especially in light of this thread.
 
Cool stuff! I wouldn’t say I have any that apply to every new guitar. There for awhile, I would yank the tone knob and rewire any 2 knob guitar to have 2 volumes because it’s more useful for me live. I use the neck pickup volume around 4 on my dirty channel a lot as my clean sound then the middle position for moderate gain and full bridge for all out.

Not sure. The Markie Mod is usually where the volume pot is moved further back. He and I once ordered PS guitars that were supposed to have another 'Hans' mod'. That's where the upper-edge of the top of the guitar (forearm area) was a lot less less sharp.
I’ve considered this before.
 
Thought I'd share a saddle update (with mods) I just did on one of my guitars. I got these 'prototype' unplated brass saddles as a gift from John and Roxanne Mann when they shipped my daughter's new PRS Parlor acoustic. Thank you, John & Roxanne.

i-QDLBXGb.jpg


If you look at them from the under-side, you can see there is a little more material compared to current bridges.

i-cnfKKbz-X3.jpg


I started by removing the sharp corners from the Low-E and A string saddles. This is something I do on almost all of my trem-equipped PRS guitars. In the photo below, you can see the difference between the corners on two saddles in the foreground.

i-895znDZ-X3.jpg


Then I put a 'brushed' texture on them. It's pretty wild how differently they catch the light now.

i-NRJ96XZ-X3.jpg


This mod is super-easy to do. A straight edge on sand paper (or Scotch Brite is all you need).

i-QqKv9qL-X3.jpg


Only problem I ran into was getting the .052" low-E to fit in the string guide.

i-LjRMsm4-X3.jpg


Carefully removing material with a jeweller's file was all it took to make a permanent fix.

i-LdWQ5B5-X3.jpg


Hopefully I'll be able to plug it in for a test spin tomorrow. It sure looks great.

i-GTbNhp5-X3.jpg
 
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Hans,

A curve ball to you. I imagine this mod might be possible with piezo bridge as well, though the bridge would need to remain in place while being worked on. How might this work, if the bridge could not be removed? Is there a detachable connection for the piezo bridge?
 
Hans,

A curve ball to you. I imagine this mod might be possible with piezo bridge as well, though the bridge would need to remain in place while being worked on. How might this work, if the bridge could not be removed? Is there a detachable connection for the piezo bridge?
Hmmmm... not sure. I’ve never had a piezo-equiped trem. Good question for @Shawn@PRS
 
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