My Standard 24 mods journal

[theDeepender]

I’m showing my ignorance again…
Why do you want to remove the graphite paint?
If it’s not shielding properly or has continuity issues, I think I’d just put some copper tape over it and call it done. Obviously, I’m missing something an I’m about to feel stupid.

 

[Simon Says]

I’m showing my ignorance again…
Why do you want to remove the graphite paint?
If it’s not shielding properly or has continuity issues, I think I’d just put some copper tape over it and call it done. Obviously, I’m missing something an I’m about to feel stupid.

It will be shielded properly even without any form of cavity shielding. I have modern PRS pickups in my Standard; pickups are shielded with copper tape wrapped around the coils. Pickup leads are shielded, and all internal wiring is shielded and properly grounded

I have noticed something with my Custom, which came without cavity shielding. The moment I shielded the cavity with copper tape it killed my guitar, the balance was off, and the top was gone.

This is the reason. Removed shielding will be a couple of other things to add more presence to my Standard 24.

I usually wouldn't care as it's near perfect (for what it is), but I broke the volume pot, and while changing it for a new one, I do some wiring changes simultaneously.

 

[theDeepender]

It will be a shielded property even without any form of cavity shielding. I have modern PRS pickups in my Standard; pickups are shielded with copper tape wrapped around the coils. Pickup leads are shielded, and all internal wiring is shielded and properly grounded

I have noticed something with my Custom, which came without cavity shielding. The moment I shielded the cavity with copper tape it killed my guitar, the balance was off, and the top was gone.

This is the reason. Removed shielding will be a couple of other things to add more presence to my Standard 24.

I usually wouldn't care as it's near perfect (for what it is), but I broke the volume pot, and while changing it for a new one, I do some wiring changes simultaneously.

Thanks. I’ve never heard of that before.

 

[garrett]

The shielding paint I have on hand is water based, so should pretty much just wash off. I'd give that a try first before getting all sandy sandy.

 

[Simon Says]

The shielding paint I have on hand is water based, so should pretty much just wash off. I'd give that a try first before getting all sandy sandy.

Yeah, I will start gently before I take out big guns

 

[Alnus Rubra]

Yeah, I will start gently before I take out big guns

Also the control cavity will most likely have a coating of sanding sealer and lacquer on it, so you shouldn’t have to worry too much about bare wood getting wet.

 

[Simon Says]

Also the control cavity will most likely have a coating of sanding sealer and lacquer on it, so you shouldn’t have to worry too much about bare wood getting wet.

This is what I'm hoping for. The only thread I found with a similar nutcase to me was a guy trying to remove the graphite paint off the vintage strat.

I'm currently planning new control layout and waiting for parts, so the soonest I can start on it is next week or two.

I may try to sneak into a control cavity over the weekend and see how it goes with some naphtha and q-tips.

I'm planning to rewire the guitar with Tremonti Bridge going directly to the 3-way switch, keeping the partial split and tone knob dedicated to the neck 59/09 only. That should give the bridge pickup even more presence. I like the way 59/09 splits, though.

Alternatively, I may go with 3-way and 2x volume only. I rarely play this guitar clean. It's my Drop C# tool

 

[Simon Says]

And the winner is - acetone. Although it's like playing with fire.

I only did a test run yesterday with a Qtip and it takes the pain tight off. Unfortunately, it also melts the Qtip, lol so I will have to use something else. I will tape off half the guitar with painter's tape as I don't want this **** on the guitar finish, and go slow.

I'm waiting for new pots, gravitt wire, and an actual day off. I should be done in a week or so, though

 

[Lewguitar]

Why do you want to remove it?

You could probably paint over it.

 

[Alnus Rubra]

He’s all about the 60 cycle hum, he feels it gives him an authentic tone

 

[aphantomvaper]

He’s all about the 60 cycle hum, he feels it gives him an authentic tone

He said he wants acetone, man!

 

[Alnus Rubra]

He said he wants ace-tone, man!

Fixed

 

[Simon Says]

Why do you want to remove it?

You could probably paint over it.

See post 22

 

[Simon Says]

Before and after.

 

[Alnus Rubra]

Great work Pav. Dibs.

 

[Simon Says]

Great work Pav. Dibs.

Thank you. It's not silky-smooth perfection lol. The cavity is not finished like the rest of the guitar - there are some dents, an uneven surface, finish buildup and such, so you can still see tinny graphite patches here and there. Not an issue for me. It looks clean enough and it did the trick - the electronic cavity is no longer a faraday cage

It looks like my parts won't arrive today, so I won't be able to finish the job. I'm at work for the next 5 days too but I should have it done early next week.

Follow-up question - any ideas on how to remove graphite paint from my fingers and under the nails? Hahaha... Yyyy

 

[DISTORT6]

Follow-up question - any ideas on how to remove graphite paint from my fingers and under the nails? Hahaha... Yyyy

Same answer: Dremel.

 

[bodia]

Follow-up question - any ideas on how to remove graphite paint from my fingers and under the nails? Hahaha... Yyyy

Let 'em grow out, and trim???

 

[Simon Says]

Let 'em grow out, and trim???

I bought a box of fabric gloves just for this occasion, 200 pairs... I just couldn't find them. My guitar room turns into a chaos

 

[Lewguitar]

See post 22

So you think the graphite paint adds capacitance to the circuit and bleeds off treble to ground? If it does, I wonder why? None of the hot wires are connected to ground. Not saying it doesn't...just wondering why.