Finish clouding - what are my options here?

[Kiwi]

My 1999 HB-II is now 25 years old. It's always had some clouding but it seems to have grown in recent years.

It's most noticeable in the mahogany center section, at the open end-grain points. Heel, and both upper and lower bouts. There's some minor clouding on the maple top and back, not photographed here.

What are my options?

- Can this even be fixed if I send it to PRS?
- If so: Do they strip the poly finish? Do they also strip the Violin Amber stain?
- Are there newer types of finish to apply? Can they re-do the Violin Amber? Or change it to a similar stain?
- Ballpark idea of cost and turnaround time?

I realize this is entirely cosmetic, but there's a sentimental attachment to the old girl. I've been playing and recording with it for 25 years. And it's a double-10 top and back.

Damage report: These are much cloudier than they photograph, actually.

Thanks for any guidance here -

Kiwi

 

[dogrocketp]

I’m living with the clouding on my 2003 custom 22. Still plays great, and the front is good. I’ll live with it, don’t want a refin.

 

[Birdsofprey]

As far as cost and turn time best place for answers would be an email to the PTC via PRS website.

 

[Monahan]

If it bothers you, then a refinish is the way to go... but that might cost a pretty penny

I've got an old Carvin SC90 bought new in the early 90s, and it's suffering from something very similar. But, it's just cosmetic and I don't have money for a refin... though if I did I would

 

[Senor Verde]

I had a Tortoise McCarty that had clouding on the front. If it hadn't been on the top I wouldn't have had anything done to it. Not wanting to send it to PRS, due to cost and wait time, I sent mine to Wilkins Guitars and was very happy with the results. Turn around time was about a month.

 

[Bogner]

All Of Your Mentioned Issues Certainly Can Be Addressed And I Am Confident You Would Be Elated Over The Results. Unfortunately, I Have No Idea On The Cost Or The Wait Time. In The Past It Has Taken A Couple Of Months Or So. PRS Customer Support Would Be Your Source Of Intelligent Info

I Have A Couple Of Guitars That Have That Issue Near The Neck Joint And Where The Fretboard Is Glued To The Neck. It Almost Looks Like A Bubble Of Some Sort. I Am On The Fence About Getting Them Fixed.

 

[bodia]

I had a refi done back in 2017 or 2018. It was $1,500 and it took 16 weeks (which is the timeframe they quoted).

EDIT: Actually, I also had a couple of mini toggles installed, and new pickups (that I supplied).

 

[László]

I've had PRS fix a little clouding along the fretboard as part of the warranty on one of my poly finished PRS' years ago, though the guitar was still pretty new. I'd definitely see if it's covered.

A problem with the hard poly finish is that it's stiff enough that as the guitar's wood expands and shrinks with the seasons over the years, the poly stays hard, is more impervious to temperature and humidity changes, and doesn't always "follow" or stick to the wood. So It separates. Does the same thing at times when there's a dent.

Nitro doesn't do that as much, but of course nitro has its own proclivities that are well known.

As I understand it, most of these clear coat finishes were originally developed for the auto industry; Paul has said as much regarding poly. Nitro was developed for the auto industry in the 1930s or so, as well (cars used to be finished with nitro lacquer until the late 1950s or early 1960s. Thus the finishes were designed for metal car bodies, metal body primers, etc.

Wood, that wonderful stuff that imparts tone, is a difficult customer when it comes to instrument finishes that last. Maybe the old French polished shellac violin finishes were the ticket in the first place, though they wear like crazy, craze and crack, too.

I wonder if there's a viable solution?

 

[Rod/]

I've had PRS fix a little clouding along the fretboard as part of the warranty on one of my poly finished PRS' years ago, though the guitar was still pretty new. I'd definitely see if it's covered.

A problem with the hard poly finish is that it's stiff enough that as the guitar's wood expands and shrinks with the seasons over the years, the poly stays hard, is more impervious to temperature and humidity changes, and doesn't always "follow" or stick to the wood. So It separates. Does the same thing at times when there's a dent.

Nitro doesn't do that as much, but of course nitro has its own proclivities that are well known.

As I understand it, most of these clear coat finishes were originally developed for the auto industry; Paul has said as much regarding poly. Nitro was developed for the auto industry in the 1930s or so, as well (cars used to be finished with nitro lacquer until the late 1950s or early 1960s. Thus the finishes were designed for metal car bodies, metal body primers, etc.

Wood, that wonderful stuff that imparts tone, is a difficult customer when it comes to instrument finishes that last. Maybe the old French polished shellac violin finishes were the ticket in the first place, though they wear like crazy, craze and crack, too.

I wonder if there's a viable solution?

Great info. Thank you