Explanation needed for original 5 way Rotary switch

[Rockabilly69]

So after some research I found this explanation, but I needed it clarified a bit...

• Position 10: Treble pickup
• Position 9: Outside coils- deep and clear - parallel
• Position 8: Series single coils – Warm version of the "in between the treble and middle pickups"
• Position 7: Parallel single coils – Crisp version of the "in between the treble and middle pickups"
• Position 6: Bass pickup

Postions 10, 9, and 6 seem clear, but could someone please tell me what coils are they using for position 8 and 7? The reason I ask is I am considering wiring a Freeway switch on my 1994 Custom 22 and I need to know what coils to wire to.

 

[Emesem]

8 inside coils series. 7 inside coils parallel.

 

[Rockabilly69]

8 inside coils series. 7 inside coils parallel.

That was quick, thanks!

 

[Bill SAS 513]

Another way I used to describe turning the 5 way rotary switch years ago, was that positions 1,3,5 are all Humbucker sounding (B,M,N),
and 2 and 4 were those "in between" "S" type sounds. (NOT exactly, but reasonably close to your single coil sounds.)
If you want to know which coils are active, tap LIGHTLY on the PU magnets as you change the dial. (I've used a metal guitar pick, or just lightly touch the end of a small screwdriver to the magnets)
This should answer which coils are activated, and when.

 

[watelessness]

i thought the explanation was "it seemed like a good idea at the time"

 

[Emesem]

One thing that I've wondered about for years. Is it normal in the "tap test" for the non-active coil to still produce a bit of a sound (but not as loud as the active one)? Seems like there is still a bit of current going through that non-active coil. Happens often even in the same guitar. That is that on the bridge pickup the non-active coil is dead quiet but on the neck pickup, the non-active coil still makes a bit of sound when tapped with a screwdriver.

Another way I used to describe turning the 5 way rotary switch years ago, was that positions 1,3,5 are all Humbucker sounding (B,M,N),
and 2 and 4 were those "in between" "S" type sounds. (NOT exactly, but reasonably close to your single coil sounds.)
If you want to know which coils are active, tap LIGHTLY on the PU magnets as you change the dial. (I've used a metal guitar pick, or just lightly touch the end of a small screwdriver to the magnets)
This should answer which coils are activated, and when.

 

[Bill SAS 513]

One thing that I've wondered about for years. Is it normal in the "tap test" for the non-active coil to still produce a bit of a sound (but not as loud as the active one)? Seems like there is still a bit of current going through that non-active coil. Happens often even in the same guitar. That is that on the bridge pickup the non-active coil is dead quiet but on the neck pickup, the non-active coil still makes a bit of sound when tapped with a screwdriver.

Yes...there are different terms for it, but you will hear it a bit...but the main coils that are engaged at the time will be much louder.

 

[aphantomvaper]

Thesamn

One thing that I've wondered about for years. Is it normal in the "tap test" for the non-active coil to still produce a bit of a sound (but not as loud as the active one)? Seems like there is still a bit of current going through that non-active coil. Happens often even in the same guitar. That is that on the bridge pickup the non-active coil is dead quiet but on the neck pickup, the non-active coil still makes a bit of sound when tapped with a screwdriver.

The magnets in the pickup are magnetically coupled to some degree. When one flux field is disturbed it has some affect on the other (hum buckers). This is how they "buck" the hum.

If you have the multimeter connected set to the ohms reading and you tap the pickup you should notice the reading going from positive to negative, or vice versa. This will indicate the phase of the pickup. IIRC the two coils on a hum bucker are out of phase and how they achieve the hum reduction. One pickup will go neg-pos and the other will go pos-neg.

You also can pass the screwdriver over the pickup to achieve the same readings.

 

[Bob7122]

I've always been puzzled by the original description given by PRS for the rotary switch positions. In positions 2 and 4 (or 9 and 7 in PRS's description) single coil pickups are in parallel, giving a sound very similar to a Strat in-between position. Position 3 (or 8) has single coils in series, which is essentially a humbucker. So the descriptions PRS gives for positions 8 and 9 should be switched for each other -- 9 is a "warm version of between the pickups" and 8 is "deep and clear." I wonder if the original PRS descriptions for 8 and 9 were always a mistake and never corrected?

 

[Lewguitar]

So after some research I found this explanation, but I needed it clarified a bit...

• Position 10: Treble pickup
• Position 9: Outside coils- deep and clear - parallel
• Position 8: Series single coils – Warm version of the "in between the treble and middle pickups"
• Position 7: Parallel single coils – Crisp version of the "in between the treble and middle pickups"
• Position 6: Bass pickup

Postions 10, 9, and 6 seem clear, but could someone please tell me what coils are they using for position 8 and 7? The reason I ask is I am considering wiring a Freeway switch on my 1994 Custom 22 and I need to know what coils to wire to.

This is based on what I've learned working with my '97 CE22:

• Position 10: Treble pickup - Both coils in series
• Position 9: Parallel screw coils from each pickup - weaker sound of two single coil pickups together
• Position 8: Series slug coils from each pickup - creates the sound of a powerful middle humbucker!
• Position 7: Parallel slug single coils from each pickup - stronger sound of two single coil pickups together
• Position 6: Bass pickup - Both coils in series