DGT pickups in Custom 22?

[andychar]

Hi all. I have a Custom 22 setup with a push-pull and was able to get all the separate screw coil splits using the schematics posted elsewhere on the forum for the 58/15s. (I can't post the link yet as I'm a new member.)

I've got a set of DGT pickups that I'd like to try, but there are only 3 leads, the hot, ground/braid, and the white split wire. I prefer the screw coil rather than slug. Has anyone here done what I'm trying to do and if so, can you share how it's done? Thanks a lot.

 

[Boogie]

Use the DGT wiring diagram, just ignore the extra volume pot.

https://prsguitars.com/support/schematics

 

[Rider1260]

Pretty sure the white lead is the screw coils on DGT pickups , I would use the stock DGT wiring with the resistors just leave out the second volume.

Herin 1 - 1 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/152274366@N08/

 

[shimmilou]

No split, they are tapped

 

[andychar]

Thanks for the replies....but the challenge is that the Cu22 has the 5 way super switch and not the toggle.
Also I've got a push-pull that splits/taps the bridge pickup.
The 58/15s have 4 connections, white/red/black/shield.
The DGTs have 3 connections, white/black/shield.

 

[John Beef]

Thanks for the replies....but the challenge is that the Cu22 has the 5 way super switch and not the toggle.
Also I've got a push-pull that splits/taps the bridge pickup.
The 58/15s have 4 connections, white/red/black/shield.
The DGTs have 3 connections, white/black/shield.

Well, it's a bummer for sure, since most DGTs have the white/black/shield wiring, you'll have to install a different pickup switch. The PRS one doesn't work with that pickup wiring, and without modifying the PC board on the switch, you're out of luck there. There are other rotaries out there if you're dead set on rotary switches. I had one from a Squier '51 that was a 3 position rotary which acted just like a toggle, and that would work OK for you. Or, just enlarge the hole slightly with a reamer and put in the toggle. You can change it back again - once the nuts are tightened it won't move.

On the plus side, I had DGTs in my Custom 22 for years and years, and they were just amazing. I was about to switch back to them after trying some others when I got a very early set of covered 59/09s. They're in the guitar now and I like 'em pretty well. I get the itch to change things up from time to time and can't leave anything alone.

 

[andychar]

Thanks, actually it's the 5-way blade switch and not the rotary switch. I suppose I could add a second push-pull and swap out to a 3-way blade to emulate the original DGT wiring, but I'd prefer to not pull up the volume pot as it might get in the way.

 

[chicagoslim]

Welcome to the forum.

I don't think that you can beat the new 5-way blade switch. If it's a core guitar, you will have 85/15 pickups, not the import 85/15S pickups. I also have a S2 Custom 22, with 3-way switching and Push/Pull tone POT. I consider my core CU22, my number one and best sounding guitar.

A Push/Pull will not work with a 5-way Switch because:
The 5-way switch is wired for -
Position 1 - Bridge Humbucker
Position 2 - Bridge Humbucker with Single Coil Neck
Position 3 - Bridge and Neck Humbuckers
Position 4 - Bridge and Neck Single Coils
Position 5 - Neck Humbucker





I did my modifying on my S2.

 

[andychar]

OK, so this is what I have been using with the 5-way blade switch and the 58/15s, credit to user @garrett for the great mod.
https://imgur.com/jV17UOr
If there's a way to achieve the same with the 3-lead DGT pickups that would be useful!

 

[garrettb]

OK, so this is what I have been using with the 5-way blade switch and the 58/15s, credit to user @garrett for the great mod.
https://imgur.com/jV17UOr
If there's a way to achieve the same with the 3-lead DGT pickups that would be useful!

Using DGT pickups is fairly close to my existing 85/15 diagram. Differences:

• Black wire of each pickup is hot to blade switch (instead of black for neck, white for bridge).
• White wires from the pickups go to the same places as the red ones from my diagram.
• The braided shield wires need to be connected to ground. You may want to solder them together and run a jumper to the back of a convenient pot. You will likely also want to shrink tube or tape wrap at least some of the braided wire to prevent shorts.
• For the treble pickup tap, to get screw coil when split, connect the resistor to ground (side of the p/p switch) instead of to the blade.

 

[andychar]

Thanks @garrett. I have them installed and working. A couple of anomalies.

I left the resistor where it was originally and the bridge pickup is tapped to screw coil as desired anyway, but does leaving it on the switch mean that the resistor itself is not effective?

And oddly, the neck pickup tapped is the slug coil. Any ideas on how to get the screw coil tapped on the neck rather than slug?

 

[garrettb]

Thanks @garrett. I have them installed and working. A couple of anomalies.

I left the resistor where it was originally and the bridge pickup is tapped to screw coil as desired anyway, but does leaving it on the switch mean that the resistor itself is not effective?

And oddly, the neck pickup tapped is the slug coil. Any ideas on how to get the screw coil tapped on the neck rather than slug?

Oh, interesting. The DGT has the taps going to ground, which I though gave screw coil.

So you kept the bridge pickup tap going to the blade, right? That's all good then. In this case, for the neck pickup, instead of running the resistor to the back of the pot, connect it over to the other side of the blade switch where the red wire leaves to go to the volume pot.

The resistors still do their thing, but where they go changes which coil is active when tapped. This applies to any split/tap pickup wiring. Connect the split/tap wires to ground for one coil, or connect them to hot for the other coil. Ultimately, follow your ears and go with which way sounds best to you.

 

[andychar]

Ok @garrett. That worked! Thanks a lot for the help. Much appreciated!