DGT dud?

Whackmaster said:
Thanks everyone! I think I'll experiment with string gauge and go from there.
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Changing strings to pure nickel and dropping the gauge down to 8's brought my DGT to life in a big way.

That said, I think your solution will be found by lowering the bridge saddles, or bridge itself, then adjusting the neck relief. I suspect that string gauge alone is not the solution to your action problem. Think of the string as a straightedge; the distance between the fret and bottom of the string is dependent on the bridge and nut-- the only thing string gauge will determine in this case is the amount of tension on the neck and bridge springs.

Hope you get it worked out soon; that's a BEAUTIFUL guitar-- and it's the best color in the PRS catalog 😎
 
Drop to 10's or 9-46's. Anyone saying the 11's feel like 10's due to the jumbo's is kidding themselves. They feel like 11's. Have had mine for years and just caved in and dropped the gauge. Plays better now.
 
I never look at the specs, strings the guitar came with or setup. With all due respect: I have my own preferences and set my guitar up accordingly.

The fact that the Dave prefers 11s and they come with those strings, does not mean you or I have to like them. Make the guitar your own. The 11s may sound different, but as long as you have a balanced set of strings, I sincerely doubt there is a major difference in tone. I only notice a difference with unbalanced (like heavy bottom) sets. Maybe the heavy strings are a tad louder.
 
I found my DGT near-perfect out of the box. I did RAISE the action a little on the G, B, and E strings (so my fat fingertips can get UNDER the strings for bends), but otherwise the thing was perfect.

I like big frets tho. I do feel it has a little harder playability than my teles, but that's not from setup or frets, it's from a neck profile that's a little chunkier than I'm used to.
 
ViggoP said:
Try 10’s on it. You hear lots of people saying that the DGT makes 11’s feel like 10’s on other guitars. That’s bull****. They feel like 11’s on a guitar with jumbo frets. I much prefer mine with 10’s (10-49/50 or 10-52) and I’m mainly in Eb tuning.
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I think 11's on the DGT (25" scale and floating bridge)... feels like 10's on my teles (25-1/2" scale, hardtail bridge)

...I actually play 10-52s on my teles, but the G,B, and E strings are same gauge as 10s, bending feels the same on both to me.
 
Whackmaster said:
Thanks everyone! I think I'll experiment with string gauge and go from there.
Click to expand...
String Gauge Changes Will Change The Tension On The Neck In Most Instances And Will Typically Require A Neck Adjustment To Compensate.Lighter Strings May Be A Help But I Genuinely Feel It Is A Set Up Issue. Everything Works Together So Your Neck Relief Needs To Be Right. Your Saddles And Nut Need To Be Radiuses In Congruence to Your Fretboard Radius. The Nut Slot Depth Needs To Be Right And Balanced For The String Height (Action) You Are Most Comfortable With And Prefer. The Nut Slot Depth Should Match The Radius. Changing These Things Can Change The Feel Of The Whole Guitar And If They Are Not Right It Can Make For A Miserable Playing Experience. A Proper Tech Should Have The Proper Tools To Measure And Adjust These Things. If All Of This Is Done Properly And You Still Are Not Happy With The Feel Then I Go Back To The Frets Not Being Your Thing.

I Hope This Helps And Doesn't Confuse. :)
 
Bogner said:
String Gauge Changes Will Change The Tension On The Neck In Most Instances And Will Typically Require A Neck Adjustment To Compensate.Lighter Strings May Be A Help But I Genuinely Feel It Is A Set Up Issue. Everything Works Together So Your Neck Relief Needs To Be Right. Your Saddles And Nut Need To Be Radiuses In Congruence to Your Fretboard Radius. The Nut Slot Depth Needs To Be Right And Balanced For The String Height (Action) You Are Most Comfortable With And Prefer. The Nut Slot Depth Should Match The Radius. Changing These Things Can Change The Feel Of The Whole Guitar And If They Are Not Right It Can Make For A Miserable Playing Experience. A Proper Tech Should Have The Proper Tools To Measure And Adjust These Things. If All Of This Is Done Properly And You Still Are Not Happy With The Feel Then I Go Back To The Frets Not Being Your Thing.

I Hope This Helps And Doesn't Confuse. :)
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It very well could still be a fret issue. I've had a fantastic tech set it up twice with minor improvements. I figure I've got nothing to lose at this point with the string change. I'll keep you posted with my findings.
 
I love mine, have no playability issues with it (I play the .011s), and the action feels as low as my other PRS'.

The 'best luthier in the area' isn't always the best luthier for a particular PRS. PRS' can be different, and I've found PRS specialists do a better job - just my experience.
 
László said:
I love mine, have no playability issues with it (I play the .011s), and the action feels as low as my other PRS'.

The 'best luthier in the area' isn't always the best luthier for a particular PRS. PRS' can be different, and I've found PRS specialists do a better job - just my experience.
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Well said
 
Whackmaster said:
Update - Took it to the PRS dealer a couple of hours away. Did a setup and it was much better. Then switched to 10s and tweaked the setup and voilà! Problem solved! Thanks to everyone for your advice.
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Great news. 11s and 10s make a big difference. Enjoy!
 
WEDGE said:
I have had several DGTs and the action was perfect on them all. Was your stock or did you get it used? Treat it to a pro setup and see what happens.

The 11’s shouldn’t be a factor unless you were a 9’s guy coming into it. The setup and big frets made me forget for the most part that they were 11’s.
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He said he had two pro setups. Evidently, not everyone is great at setting up PRS guitars.
 
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