DGT Core won't stay in tune

Is it still holding the tuning? I have a 23 DGT and if I look at the guitar wrong, the strings bind up in the nut. You can actually hear the strings 'ping' above the nut if the trem is used at all. I've been thinking about replacing the bone nut with the synthetic one.
 
strat63 said:
Is it still holding the tuning? I have a 23 DGT and if I look at the guitar wrong, the strings bind up in the nut. You can actually hear the strings 'ping' above the nut if the trem is used at all. I've been thinking about replacing the bone nut with the synthetic one.
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Get the bone nut touched up. It will work great once you resolve the binging issue. Did you change the gage of strings on it?
 
JasonE said:
Get the bone nut touched up. It will work great once you resolve the binging issue. Did you change the gage of strings on it?
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I use the same 11s on every string change which match the DGT string gauge it came with. I've been thinking about trying a set of 10s just to see if they would bind up less.
 
bluemoon said:
The video helped a ton. Narrowed it down to the D string by pressing the strings behind the bone nut. As soon as pressed the D string behind the nut it pinged. Ran some folded sand paper lightly through the slot and that seems to have fixed the issue. Also stretched the crap out of that string.

Thanks boys/girls. Much appreciated. Thought it was a trem issue.
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Please also note that it is not uncommon at all for the vibrato to need just a bit of time to settle in. Even if you don't use it much while playing, you should initially on a brand new guitar. Many here have said the whole guitar settles in and I can't disagree with that, but I do know the vibrato can take just a little while to settle in.
 
WingerRules said:
Please also note that it is not uncommon at all for the vibrato to need just a bit of time to settle in. Even if you don't use it much while playing, you should initially on a brand new guitar. Many here have said the whole guitar settles in and I can't disagree with that, but I do know the vibrato can take just a little while to settle in.
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I'm glad you made this point. I recently acquired two brand new guitars, both of which were troublesome tuners to begin with. Both have settled in like you describe. It had been a long since I played a brand new guitar. Of course, the nut pinging bluemoon was having is a different story.
 
strat63 said:
Is it still holding the tuning? I have a 23 DGT and if I look at the guitar wrong, the strings bind up in the nut. You can actually hear the strings 'ping' above the nut if the trem is used at all. I've been thinking about replacing the bone nut with the synthetic one.
Click to expand...
Ditch The Bone Nut And Get The Black Synthetic Nut That PRS Makes And Your Problems Will Be Solved.
 
Bogner said:
Ditch The Bone Nut And Get The Black Synthetic Nut That PRS Makes And Your Problems Will Be Solved.
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My DGT has the standard PRS nut on it. Wildwood made that specification on the one I have when they ordered the small run of them. While I tend to agree with you on getting the standard nut, the bone nut should work fine. I switched back to the bone nut for my PS build while I was at the factory.
 
JasonE said:
My DGT has the standard PRS nut on it. Wildwood made that specification on the one I have when they ordered the small run of them. While I tend to agree with you on getting the standard nut, the bone nut should work fine. I switched back to the bone nut for my PS build while I was at the factory.
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In The Perfect World, Theoretically, You Would Be Right But This Forum Is Full Of Issues With The Bone Nut On, Especially On Trem Guitars Causing Tuning Issues. The Original Black Synthetic Nuts Simply Work Better And I Never Heard Of The Issues With Those Nor Did I Ever Experience All Of The Issues I Have With Them Like I Have With The Bone Nuts. To Me, Especially On A Trem Equipped Guitar, A Bone Nut Is A Bad Choice Compared To The Self Lubricated Synthetic Nut. One Of The Primary Reasons I Went All In On PRS Guitars Many Years Ago Was Their Build Quality And Tuning Stability And Consistency Night In And Night Out In Various Conditions, Etc. While The Look Of A Bone Nut May Be Visually More Appealing And May Match Better With The Tuning Buttons And Pickup Rings, Etc. To Me, It Is A Backwards Move Having Them On The Guitars. Every Problem I Had With A Bone Nut On A PRS Was Instantly Solved When I Got Rid Of The Bone Nut And Installed The Original Black Synthetic Self Lubricating Nut. I Am Not The Only Person To Arrive At This Conclusion From Experience. With A Nut Being Such A Crucial Part Of The Guitar And Its Overall Playability I Am Sticking With Synthetic Originals. The Bone Material Isn't As Consistent As The Synthetic Nor Can The Bone Be Molded Cut/Shaped By Hand With The Precision Of The Molded Fabricated Nut. I Also Know People Have Their Feelings About Things And They May Be Different Than Mine And That Is Fine. I Just Wanted To Share My Thoughts And How I Arrived At Them. :)
 
Bogner said:
In The Perfect World, Theoretically, You Would Be Right But This Forum Is Full Of Issues With The Bone Nut On, Especially On Trem Guitars Causing Tuning Issues. The Original Black Synthetic Nuts Simply Work Better And I Never Heard Of The Issues With Those Nor Did I Ever Experience All Of The Issues I Have With Them Like I Have With The Bone Nuts. To Me, Especially On A Trem Equipped Guitar, A Bone Nut Is A Bad Choice Compared To The Self Lubricated Synthetic Nut. One Of The Primary Reasons I Went All In On PRS Guitars Many Years Ago Was Their Build Quality And Tuning Stability And Consistency Night In And Night Out In Various Conditions, Etc. While The Look Of A Bone Nut May Be Visually More Appealing And May Match Better With The Tuning Buttons And Pickup Rings, Etc. To Me, It Is A Backwards Move Having Them On The Guitars. Every Problem I Had With A Bone Nut On A PRS Was Instantly Solved When I Got Rid Of The Bone Nut And Installed The Original Black Synthetic Self Lubricating Nut. I Am Not The Only Person To Arrive At This Conclusion From Experience. With A Nut Being Such A Crucial Part Of The Guitar And Its Overall Playability I Am Sticking With Synthetic Originals. The Bone Material Isn't As Consistent As The Synthetic Nor Can The Bone Be Molded Cut/Shaped By Hand With The Precision Of The Molded Fabricated Nut. I Also Know People Have Their Feelings About Things And They May Be Different Than Mine And That Is Fine. I Just Wanted To Share My Thoughts And How I Arrived At Them. :)
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I hear you and I am not necessarily disagreeing with you. I originally chose the standard PRS nut for my PS build. I did that specifically due to that fact that my DTG was built that way and I have never had any tuning issues with it at all. When I did my factory visit, the factory rep for my dealer and I had a conversation about this very thing. He told me that if the bone nut is cut correctly it will be just as solid on the tuning. He was very confident that I would not have an issue with it so I went back to the bone nut. I figured the worst case scenario is that if I have issues with it, I will have them send me the standard nut and I will change it out. Before that trip, I would be and was saying the exact things you are saying.
 
You can absolutely make a bone nut work, and it’s really not that hard if you know what to do. But most people don’t and I don’t think you should have to do anything to a 5k guitar to make it work like it should.
I currently own two core PRS with bone nuts. Neither of them held their tuning when new. Both had to get work done to their nuts and you need to lubricate the slots each string change. They hold their tuning perfectly now but I still only see downsides with the bone nuts compared to the synthetic nuts.
 
ViggoP said:
You can absolutely make a bone nut work, and it’s really not that hard if you know what to do. But most people don’t and I don’t think you should have to do anything to a 5k guitar to make it work like it should.
I currently own two core PRS with bone nuts. Neither of them held their tuning when new. Both had to get work done to their nuts and you need to lubricate the slots each string change. They hold their tuning perfectly now but I still only see downsides with the bone nuts compared to the synthetic nuts.
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On my guitars with bone nuts I put graphite powder in the slots. It doesn't take a lot. I also don't have to keep doing it. It stays in there pretty well. I have been doing this for a very long time. I always keep a couple of tubes of the stuff around so it is handy when I need it.
 
JasonE said:
On my guitars with bone nuts I put graphite powder in the slots. It doesn't take a lot. I also don't have to keep doing it. It stays in there pretty well. I have been doing this for a very long time. I always keep a couple of tubes of the stuff around so it is handy when I need it.
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On my DGT I was using Big Bends Nut Sauce. Didn't help on the bone nut. I even had a tech take a quick look at it and he did not see anything obvious. The PRS nut definitely fixed the problem. I am 100% sure my tech would have figured it out given time...but PRS was willing to fix for free. Although it sucks to ship such an expensive guitar across the country, PRS told me not to worry about it--that it would be fine. I assume if it got destroyed in transit they would take of it.
 
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I tend to agreed that the PRS Synthetic nut is superior to any bone nut I have used before , I had tuning issues with my Fiore but I don't believe it was a PRS problem as much as someone recut the nut poorly . I replace mine with a Synthetic PRS nut an all is well now.
My Modern Eagle V has had no tuning issues so far I am presently surprised.
 
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