Custom 24 Invisible pick guard

Cbouty

New Member
Joined
Jan 28, 2018
Messages
144
A little set up - I am a perfectionist... The inside of my car looks like I just bought it. I wax my mountain bike. I don’t open my books enough to crease the bindings. Most people think I’m crazy, but I take REALLY good care of my stuff. I use my stuff - my mountain bike scratches and dents from trail riding don’t bother me, but i’d never just throw it in the back of my truck.

So I buy my first PRS and I’m looking at this gorgeous work of art that has no pick guard. I could have bought an S2, but I like the look and feel of no pick guard. As I looked over at the scratched to hell pickguard on my Strat and realized I’m an overly agressive picker, I thought - I can make a pickguard!

I have always had the invisible shield by Zagg on my iphone, ipad, laptop. Its super thin and clear. It comes off without any sticky residue and has a lifetime warranty if it starts to peel up. It was originally designed to be put on helicopter blades to keep the grime off them. There are videos of this stuff protecting iphones from being lit on fire, key scratches, and knife cuts.

So, today, I got one the size of an ipad, made a template out of a piece of paper, cut it to shape, and stuck it between the pickups on my CU24... you can’t even tell it is there and now I can play all the blitzkreig bop I want without scratching my new baby!

Thought there might be some other picky bastards out there who’d appreciate this and follow suit, so I took some pictures along the way... ;)

The ipad ones are big enough for two pick guards (in case you screw one up)
HrkEOrn.jpg

Cut a template our of a piece of printer paper
xxYG3M3.jpg

Cut out the shield to match the template (it’s on a thick yellow piece of plastic that makes it easier to install - its totally clear)
bJlF2cF.jpg

The shield is clear but usually has a few air bubbles that dissolve over a few days. It is pretty hard to see unless you get light to glare on it
zU4HGpt.jpg

From a foot away you cant even see it (although you can see the giant glare from the light above:p)
2B5nlZb.jpg


Edit - I was too dumb to figure out how to get the pictures to imbed correctly until Flux taught me:D
 
Last edited:
For some reason, I’m too dumb to figure out how to get the pictures to imbed correctly :confused::confused::confused:

You're most of the way there. The forum just needs links for individual images, it unfortunately doesn't know how to fetch them from the Imgur gallery link you posted.

Using the image location from the last pic, for example, we wrap it in the forum image tags:

Code:
[img]https://i.imgur.com/2B5nlZb.jpg[/img]

... which yields:

2B5nlZb.jpg


Hope this helps.
 
great idea, any effect on a nitro finished guitar?
That’s a great question... I have a poly finish on my guitar. I’ve never had a nitro finish guitar; but from everything I’ve read on them, I dont think I’d stick anything to them o_O
 
great idea, any effect on a nitro finished guitar?
Having read a luthier’s post on line, relating to blue 3M tape that was used to mask, whilst doing a re-fret on a high end acoustic. The tape was left on the nitro-cellulose finish for a few days and this effected the finish.

Safest thing to do, would maybe to check with the manufacturer’s website for any information. Failing that, contact them to be sure.

I believe PRS use a poly lacquer. Again, best to check of any effects that adhesive may cause to the finish.
 
Having read a luthier’s post on line, relating to blue 3M tape that was used to mask, whilst doing a re-fret on a high end acoustic. The tape was left on the nitro-cellulose finish for a few days and this effected the finish.

Safest thing to do, would maybe to check with the manufacturer’s website for any information. Failing that, contact them to be sure.

I believe PRS use a poly lacquer. Again, best to check of any effects that adhesive may cause to the finish.

Yeah, it's a poly, usually. There have been a few Wood Library runs that were nitro. The original Ted run was nitro, if memory serves. Lots of nitro out of the PS group too.
 
Yeah, it's a poly, usually. There have been a few Wood Library runs that were nitro. The original Ted run was nitro, if memory serves. Lots of nitro out of the PS group too.
It was an interesting article.

The guy was dispersing some of the myths that surrounds nitro finishes.

It’s just info for the forum members to consider before applying this modification.

I’m not trying to “scare munger”. Just would hate for anyone’s beloved guitar to get damaged. @Cbouty please don’t think I’m being negative.
 
It was an interesting article.

The guy was dispersing some of the myths that surrounds nitro finishes.

It’s just info for the forum members to consider before applying this modification.

I’m not trying to “scare munger”. Just would hate for anyone’s beloved guitar to get damaged. @Cbouty please don’t think I’m being negative.

No, no...not at all! I would hate to scarf up a nitro coat. You gave sage advice!
 
It was an interesting article.

The guy was dispersing some of the myths that surrounds nitro finishes.

It’s just info for the forum members to consider before applying this modification.

I’m not trying to “scare munger”. Just would hate for anyone’s beloved guitar to get damaged. @Cbouty please don’t think I’m being negative.
I don’t think you’re being negative at all... This whole forum is about taking care of each other!

I am 99.9% sure this “sticker” won’t hurt a poly finish, but I wouldn’t begrudge anyone who checked into it further...

And I dont think I’d put it on a nitro finish even if someone from PRS told me it was OK ;)
 
I don’t think you’re being negative at all... This whole forum is about taking care of each other!

I am 99.9% sure this “sticker” won’t hurt a poly finish, but I wouldn’t begrudge anyone who checked into it further...

And I dont think I’d put it on a nitro finish even if someone from PRS told me it was OK ;)
From the information available, nitro-cellulose lacquer appears to be more prone to damage, when coming into contact with certain substances ie. foam covering on guitar stands. I’ve seen the effect, first hand from a friends G LP studio, the lacquer on the neck almost looked like it had melted.

I’m not well enough informed about poly lacquers to know what effect contact with adhesive substances might have.

If anyone has any knowledge or knows where any information might be, it would be great to know.
 
Nitro is far more chemically reactive than poly; PRS doesn’t even recommend using their polish on a nitro finish. Any adhesive would pose what I’d think would be an unacceptable risk.

Speaking only for myself, and not wishing to appear critical of the idea, sticking a guitar condom on the instrument to prevent pick scratches is a cure that’s as bad as the disease! :eek:

However, I do understand the desire to keep the guitar nice.
 
Nitro is far more chemically reactive than poly; PRS doesn’t even recommend using their polish on a nitro finish. Any adhesive would pose what I’d think would be an unacceptable risk.

Speaking only for myself, and not wishing to appear critical of the idea, sticking a guitar condom on the instrument to prevent pick scratches is a cure that’s as bad as the disease! :eek:

However, I do understand the desire to keep the guitar nice.
No Glove, No Love! :D:D:D
 
Nicely done!
I'm very mean to my guitars...:oops:
I tend to ride 'em hard and put 'em away wet.
Then when I restring them I give them all the love they need, and relish the minor increases in personal relicing...:p
 
Nitro is far more chemically reactive than poly; PRS doesn’t even recommend using their polish on a nitro finish. Any adhesive would pose what I’d think would be an unacceptable risk.

Speaking only for myself, and not wishing to appear critical of the idea, sticking a guitar condom on the instrument to prevent pick scratches is a cure that’s as bad as the disease! :eek:

However, I do understand the desire to keep the guitar nice.
I think the figures I read were that nitro is approximately 30% solid (the shiny surface we see) and 70% solvent, hence the more fragile nature of a nitro finish.

In comparison, poly is approximately 70% solid and 30% solvent.

This is attributed to thick poly coatings in the early ‘70’s, where finishers were applying the same number of layers of poly lacquer as they previously applied when using nitro-cellulose.

Another interesting fact I read, was that G pay a fee to increase the amount of nitro in their lacquer, as it is a higher percentage than that which is allowed by law. I don’t know the validity of this information.
 
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