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Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by Ovibos, Mar 31, 2018.
Meatloaf thinks auto mirrors are concave...
I'm almost done paying for the Mustang, now I can start saving up for Core or S2.
That's going seriously above and beyond the requirements for posting in this forum. My hat is off to you and I'm a bit intimidated. If I were forced to post only verified accurate statements, I'd only post about once a week.
...that’s crazy talk.
That's a good way to clip a bike rider or two - but I guess there are not many of those in the US (hey, maybe that's why :-D)
Aaaaaaaaaaannnnnddd....how is that exactly?
When you angle your side mirrors that far out, they can be hidden from your view when they're to your right and slightly behind you (since they're not as wide as a vehicle)
Seems like a dual responsibility to me. Drivers need to watch for bikes and motorcycles and bikes and motorcycles need to not stay in a vehicle’s blind spot.
That's just it...this method minimizes or eliminates your blind spot...try it dude! And i get ya...we all gotta watch for each other.
Everyone needs to stay out of everyone's blind spot - as much as possible. But where there are no bike lanes that's not always possible. That's why you turn your head to check before making a right swing
Insofar as how much of your own car you see in the side mirrors I agree - but adjusting them that way while leaning your head all the way over to the window introduces a huge blind spot when you're in your normal position.
Have you tried this? It doesn't introduce a huge blind spot! You see behind you in your rearview mirror. When you lose them off the edge of the rearview, you see them in the sideview. When off the edge of the sideview, they are literally next to you in your peripheral vision. That's the whole idea behind this mirror setup.
Ridiculously easy solution to the action problem: go to a junkyard and buy the mirror control assembly from a wrecked Caddy (get a deal by buying only one side); drill, scrape and chisel a big cavity out of a remaining solid area of the guitar back, bolt in the mirror control but retask the control logic to actuate modified Mann-Made bridge elements (would need to get John to add micro DC motors to each element, easy), then route a new channel to the top area of your choice and screw, glue or tape in the OEM Caddy mirror-memory button, apply His/Hers recall sticker to memory selector switch. Finally, find somewhere to duct-tape a 12VDC battery and hook it up (or use belt-pack type for comfort and increased milliamp-hours). Good to go, might take 20 mins max.
This thread definitely developed in a direction I didn't expect...
And not a single mention of watery poop or Winger.
Fixed...Thank me later.
I rely on the guitar to be playable and ready to go when I take delivery. If I'm changing specs from the original set-up, yes, that's on me. However, if I get a new guitar that right from the factory floor has fretbuzz, dead spots, or frets out - that's on the builder.
That's why I buy PRS.
I like the “it’s Friday, lets open some guitar cases and see what we’re sending out of the factory” policy that PRS has!
Let me help......................
I thought this place was full of cool peeps. Guess I was wrong...............no one has been over to set my mirrors
the ones on the top of your shoes?