Chewed-Up Bridge Studs

CandidPicker

Because Opportunity Seldom Knocks Twice
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I use Blue painters tape over the studs before I take of the strings.

Would work for you, except for me the bridge studs are being replaced. Will need to adjust the height or measure from body to underside of stud base prior to removal...
 

CandidPicker

Because Opportunity Seldom Knocks Twice
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I just discovered (confirmed with speaking w/ Roxanne at John Mann's) that the MannMade stop tail bridge studs may not fit the PRS wraparound bridge...so my previous order was canceled and PRS studs were ordered.

The reason I wondered was PRS studs are available on John's 'Hardware' section, but I didn't them in his bridge parts section. A YT vid had me thinking that SE models can't use certain bridge replacement parts, so my suspicions were confirmed...Roxanne set the facts straight and said, yeah, you might need the PRS studs instead of the MannMade ones...
 
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Broseph

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I know there are metric studs vs imperial. And MannMade bridges were designed to fit their own studs snug. But they even fit the stock PRS studs better than the PRS bridge did. If that makes any sense
 

CandidPicker

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I know there are metric studs vs imperial. And MannMade bridges were designed to fit their own studs snug. But they even fit the stock PRS studs better than the PRS bridge did. If that makes any sense

Understood about metric vs. imperial. Imperial MannMades were originally ordered. Yet Roxanne said the MannMades "might not fit" the bridge, though the threads would fit the bushings the same.

It may be that the MannMade bridge is a different style bridge that accepts only MannMade studs. The PRS studs would be used for when no new MannMade bridge were ordered.

If your PRS bridge fits better with MannMade studs, Roxanne may not have the most up-to-date info...
 

LSchefman

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I did see that, Les, but a $50 wrench?

Seems to me the right tool to use is the tool that's made to do the job.

In addition to not bunging up the screws themselves, you might want a tool that won't accidentally slide out of the slot and land on the guitar top, which could happen with a regular screwdriver. The sides around that tool surround the screw so that shouldn't happen unless you really screw up.

There is such a thing as 'penny-wise but pound foolish'.

But more power to you if you can get the job done without spending the dough!
 

dsenoj

Old dude in a PRS T-shirt
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I attended a session on setups at PRS Experience one year. I don't remember his name but the guy leading the session does final assemblies and setups on private stocks as well as cores. I'm pretty sure I remember that he said he uses a PRS output jack plate for this.
 

CandidPicker

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Seems to me the right tool to use is the tool that's made to do the job.

In addition to not bunging up the screws themselves, you might want a tool that won't accidentally slide out of the slot and land on the guitar top, which could happen with a regular screwdriver. The sides around that tool surround the screw so that shouldn't happen unless you really screw up.

There is such a thing as 'penny-wise but pound foolish'.

But more power to you if you can get the job done without spending the dough!

From what I've read from PRS, the bridge studs when not under string tension should rotate freely and can be removed with your fingertips turning the studs. The stop tail bridge is not a locking one like John Mann's intonated adjustable ones.

I do have a Swiss army knife with screwdriver blade that can help release the stud if it might be slightly overtightened. Then, simple fingertip twiddling can extract the stud as the thread backs out. The PRS Support page suggests a simple 25 cent piece will work as well. I'm seriously considering locating some .73 or .88 mm guitar picks that will slide into the slot and do the work. It was previously posted that the only thing that may be compromised regards a guitar pick is the pick, not the stud or guitar finish.

My plan is to use painter's tape over the bridge and the surrounding finish to keep the bridge in place, while protecting the finish. Then, measure the gap between guitar body and underside of each bridge stud, make note of that, then release string tension, then cut the strings. The only difficult part may arise if the studs won't rotate, which could happen. I'll have both the guitar picks and I'll find something comparable to what might work in a pinch. My stubby palm-sized screwdriver is small enough to control easily, still while turning the stud screws.

@dsenoj's idea of using an output jack plate might work, if I can find something similar without too much fanfare.

We'll let you know how this project moves forward, once the replacement studs arrive.
 

Eddie kim

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Maxime,

It's entirely possible the original owner tried to adjust the bridge studs while they were under tension. I'd prefer to not use a chisel since the edge is sharp and might not be the correct tool for the job. (Could damage the chisel's edge, I'm thinking...).

I do own a small stubby ½" wide screwdriver that might have enough control for removing the old stud screws and installing the news ones. The issue might be intonation. Am hoping John Mann's video also shows how to intonate a wraparound bridge...
My used ZM has studs that looks liked your. All jacked up.
 

]-[@n$0Ma☩!©

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the worst is when the bridge falls off and the studs move so you have no idea how high the action was. Always a guessing game. Thats why a MannMade bridge is nice. Doesn't fall off. Or locking studs.

Schroeder locking metric studs every time, Eddie.

No need unless you want to spend the money. Just mar the threads of the studs on your stock bridge in a few places (test results along the way) until it firmly (but not too firmly) fits. I use a set of dikes and mark threads near each end but 90-degrees off. A little goes a long way. If you mar them too much, the stud will be nearly impossible to screw in or remove. I do this for all of my stop tail PRS guitars.
 

CandidPicker

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My used ZM has studs that looks liked your. All jacked up.

Yup. It was the only visible cosmetic issue I could find; all others were either too small (pinhole sized) or the scratches had been buffed out. I thought to bring the guitar back to factory fresh condition with stock PRS studs, which John Mann has within the 'hardware' section of his site.

I didn't see the need to look for 'power tools' yesterday, so I quit while I was ahead. o_O:p
 

11top

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I bought a wide, fat blade standard screw driver that fits the slot fairly fully. Since there’s little play, there’s less chance of marring the screws. I also place a thin piece of cotton (old T shirt) over the slot before inserting said screw driver. Not sure it’s the best method, but I’ve never marred the slots.
 

Going Modal

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For what it's worth, yes that StewMac tool is THE one to use if you want it done right... and yes, it is also seemingly expensive. But if these guitars were easy to make, well then I guess we'd all be making them.

I don't have that tool (I should), however I do have this--which was not necessarily designed for this:
https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-too...-tools/wrenches/truss-rod-crank-for-tele.html
But it just so happens that if you lay the tool sideways, the thickness of the handle fits perfectly in the stud slots, and it sticks out a couple inches so you also have pretty good leverage to turn the studs, even under full string tension. I don't intend to be pushing a bunch of StewMac-only tools; it just so happens that I use this tool for that job, and it's also from StewMac.
 
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