Chewed-Up Bridge Studs

[CandidPicker]

Just thought to say that my recent purchase of a 2015 McCarty was better than I could hope for; the tone and weight of the guitar surpasses my expectations.

The only upgrade that the guitar could conceivably receive are some bridge stud replacements. The current ones seems to have been adjusted rather roughly, leaving some chewed up looking edges on the stud slots.
(See below)

I realize that John Mann has what I need for replacements. IIRC, what's in the guitar currently are polished nickel bridge studs.

What tools should one use when installing the bridge studs? My feeling is that a ½-inch wide screwdriver will not be adequate for the job, since this is the same width as the chewed-up markings on the studs.

 

[WEDGE]

Most any screwdriver will work in a pinch, just make sure you put painters tape over the end to keep from chipping the screws. You should adjust without tension on them so even a quarter might work.

 

[Broseph]

Are you concerned about the top of the stud screw? You won't need any Screw driver to remove the stud. Remove the strings and you can manually remove the stud screw with your fingers.

 

[Broseph]

if its the post you're trying to remove: search PRS stud removal on YouTube. John Mann posted a video a few years back that gets the job done.

 

[Maxime Bousquet]

during my first change of strings, I noticed that it is easy to unscrew the screws, yours must have been damaged because the person made an adjustment with the tension of the strings, me if I had to make an adjustment with the tension, I would go with a tampered wood chisel with you tap on the bevel so as not to damage Nothing! the right size wood chisel would cover the entire surface!

 

[CandidPicker]

Maxime,

It's entirely possible the original owner tried to adjust the bridge studs while they were under tension. I'd prefer to not use a chisel since the edge is sharp and might not be the correct tool for the job. (Could damage the chisel's edge, I'm thinking...).

I do own a small stubby ½" wide screwdriver that might have enough control for removing the old stud screws and installing the news ones. The issue might be intonation. Am hoping John Mann's video also shows how to intonate a wraparound bridge...

 

[Broseph]

If the studs are damage you can order a replacement. Can replace with the same Core if you had no issues with lean. Even locking studs are designed for PRS by TonePros that look the same from the top and stop any wiggle. So you set it and forget it so to speak without concerns of bridge falling off during string changes

 

[CandidPicker]

If the studs are damage you can order a replacement. Can replace with the same Core if you had no issues with lean. Even locking studs are designed for PRS by TonePros that look the same from the top and stop any wiggle. So you set it and forget it so to speak without concerns of bridge falling off during string changes

Thanks for your response. I've got replacement core polished nickel studs on order. Do you happen to know the factory-set height for both studs? (It may be necessary to measure before removing the studs to obtain the correct height prior to reinstalling...)

 

[CandidPicker]

Most any screwdriver will work in a pinch, just make sure you put painters tape over the end to keep from chipping the screws. You should adjust without tension on them so even a quarter might work.

From what others have already commented, it would seem the stud screws can be easily replaced when string tension is released. Will put some artists' tape over the back edge allen screws, and remember to measure the bridge height prior to replacing the studs.

The PRS Support page suggests a quarter will work well; I just need to do all this with released string tension or the studs won't rotate as easily.

 

[László]

There's a special tool made for the purpose of adjusting the studs. It slips over the studs and has a screwdriver blade. Won't slip and cause that kind of burring on the metal. Stew-Mac has it.

https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-too...MI9oCH8ayc7wIV5vbjBx2pCgvREAYYASABEgI9P_D_BwE

 

[Black Plaid]

You really shouldn't chew your studs, it's also bad for your teeth!

 

[Maxime Bousquet]

Maxime,

It's entirely possible the original owner tried to adjust the bridge studs while they were under tension. I'd prefer to not use a chisel since the edge is sharp and might not be the correct tool for the job. (Could damage the chisel's edge, I'm thinking...).

I do own a small stubby ½" wide screwdriver that might have enough control for removing the old stud screws and installing the news ones. The issue might be intonation. Am hoping John Mann's video also shows how to intonate a wraparound bridge...

Yes of course! I'm the guy who's going to take a tool and turn it into another use! the construction man in me !! but there are certainly other simpler ways!

to make the intonation you have noticed the two allen screws located on each side of the stoptail which will be used to make the final adjustments but I believe that if you only change the two mounting screws this should not affect the intonation too much, it You just have to make sure you have the right height, the importance of noting the settings that are already in place on the guitar! can't wait to see the end result!

 

[CandidPicker]

There's a special tool made for the purpose of adjusting the studs. It slips over the studs and has a screwdriver blade. Won't slip and cause that kind of burring on the metal. Stew-Mac has it.

https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-too...MI9oCH8ayc7wIV5vbjBx2pCgvREAYYASABEgI9P_D_BwE

I did see that, Les, but a $50 wrench? Amazon has the same thing, labeled "stop tail wrench" but slightly more with free shipping. After hearing that it's possible to adjust the studs with your fingers, or a quarter, I think I'll save the cash for something I'd use more regularly...I've got a small stubby screwdriver that's almost as wide as the slot,. The other possibility is finding a small piece of metal (some sort of gauge, perhaps?) the thickness of the slot I could use to adjust the height correctly...

 

[jak3af3r]

After loosening the strings, I use a really thick guitar pick. That way if anything gets damaged, it's the 50¢ pick rather than the studs.

 

[Broseph]

the worst is when the bridge falls off and the studs move so you have no idea how high the action was. Always a guessing game. Thats why a MannMade bridge is nice. Doesn't fall off. Or locking studs.

 

[Broseph]

Thanks for your response. I've got replacement core polished nickel studs on order. Do you happen to know the factory-set height for both studs? (It may be necessary to measure before removing the studs to obtain the correct height prior to reinstalling...)

I do not know. Measure it with an action ruler if you have one to know how high it is.

 

[CandidPicker]

You really shouldn't chew your studs, it's also bad for your teeth!

So many Cadbury bunny jokes, so little time...

 

[CandidPicker]

the worst is when the bridge falls off and the studs move so you have no idea how high the action was. Always a guessing game. Thats why a MannMade bridge is nice. Doesn't fall off. Or locking studs.

The replacement studs will be MannMade ones. They're just standard USA core studs.

The bridge adjustment will likely need an intonation, and those are easy-peasy. My only caveat is stringing the guitar and reading the harmonics while I've got my HeadRush tuner on one side of the room. My workspace will need to be close to the HeadRush's instrument cable length...the logistics may not be easy, but the job will get done.

I personally don't mind the bridge sliding off the studs, but don't wish to upgrade to an adjustable bridge, yet. That's may be something to put on the back burner unless my tone were drastically altered for the worse with the new studs...

 

[bodia]

the worst is when the bridge falls off and the studs move so you have no idea how high the action was. Always a guessing game. Thats why a MannMade bridge is nice. Doesn't fall off. Or locking studs.

I use Blue painters tape over the studs before I take of the strings.

 

[CandidPicker]

After loosening the strings, I use a really thick guitar pick. That way if anything gets damaged, it's the 50¢ pick rather than the studs.

A 0.73 or 0.88 mm pick...? That might just be the ticket...