mweston
New Member
Hello. Newbie here. Where can I find a good concise video on how to change strings on a "Floyd" Custom 24? Grateful for your help. The URL would be appreciated. Thank you. Mark
Changing strings "Floyd" Custom 24
- Thread starter mweston
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Brad737
This space for rent...
One trick I like with Floyds is to stick the ball end of the string into the tuner, run it through the nut, and clip the excess string around the fine tuner screw on the bridge. Then tighten (do NOT over tighten), then use a string winder to bring up to pitch. That's one less snip to make, and doesn't leave a ton of excess to wrap on the tuner post.
gush
Where is that speedo pic
Take this one step further and leave 3 or 4 wraps around tuner so when you break a string at the saddle you will have enough extra string left to cut the break and stick it back in the saddle clamp and go. Your string is already stretched and ready to go.
Its like getting a second chance to use that string and if it happens at a gig you won't have to stretch and retune several times.
Good luck.
mweston
New Member
Thank you for your answers. Something good from all of you to take away. I just got my "Floyd" Custom 24 and haven't changed the strings, yet, but it seems a bit unorthodox, but I'm sure I'll catch on to it. I think maybe I'll bring it to the Guitar Center tech for the first change and ask him to help me do it the first time. It's certainly an ingenious system, with the locking nut, locking fine-tuner, and Floyd system. Somebody made a fortune on that! Just when you think they couldn't build a better "mouse trap".
Pretty cool idea to leave some winds around the tuner in case the string breaks at the saddle. I never even looked at PRS guitars before as I was strictly a Fender American guy, with a Strat and Tele. And I admit, I snubbed the others, basically. When I saw that system, I was shocked at the genius of it. How long has that been around? I almost bought a Strat with a Floyd, something Fender apparently tried a few years ago, but the Floyd only went in one direction...down towards the body, and didn't bend the other way, away from the bod. Otherwise I might have had another Strat with a Floyd. Having said that, I am totally pleased with my PRS, and I mean TOTALLY!
Question: How do you "block" the trem in place when changing strings? Do you use a piece of wood, or rubber, or something?
Sorry for the "newbie" questions. However, you folks are very helpful and I'm sure you understand.
Thanks.
Mark
Pretty cool idea to leave some winds around the tuner in case the string breaks at the saddle. I never even looked at PRS guitars before as I was strictly a Fender American guy, with a Strat and Tele. And I admit, I snubbed the others, basically. When I saw that system, I was shocked at the genius of it. How long has that been around? I almost bought a Strat with a Floyd, something Fender apparently tried a few years ago, but the Floyd only went in one direction...down towards the body, and didn't bend the other way, away from the bod. Otherwise I might have had another Strat with a Floyd. Having said that, I am totally pleased with my PRS, and I mean TOTALLY!
Question: How do you "block" the trem in place when changing strings? Do you use a piece of wood, or rubber, or something?
Sorry for the "newbie" questions. However, you folks are very helpful and I'm sure you understand.
Thanks.
Mark
gush
Where is that speedo pic
If you change one string at a time you won't need to block the trem. If you take all the strings off then put something under the back of the trem so it doesn't mess up the finish of your guitar because it will make contact. You could stick something between trem block and cavity wall but that would require removing trem plate on back of guitar.
Take care not to over tighten the Allen screws on the saddles and the allen screws on the locking nut.
One more thing. If you take string out of saddle and then turn guitar upside down a tiny little block will fall out and get lostforever. Don't do that.
Take care not to over tighten the Allen screws on the saddles and the allen screws on the locking nut.
One more thing. If you take string out of saddle and then turn guitar upside down a tiny little block will fall out and get lostforever. Don't do that.
mweston
New Member
OMG! A tiny little BLOCK....OH MY!
All the more reason to take it to Guitar Center for the first change. I don't exactly know what "over-tighten" is, but I guess I'll "under tighten" to begin with. Let's see what the tech says. I got lost when I first got the guitar when he talked about taking off the back. Sounds like it could be cluster! I don't yet have a total understanding of the Floyd system. Gosh, you'd think there would be a decent You Tube of how to deal with these things, or a good video from PRS themselves. Thanks for the tip!
Mark
All the more reason to take it to Guitar Center for the first change. I don't exactly know what "over-tighten" is, but I guess I'll "under tighten" to begin with. Let's see what the tech says. I got lost when I first got the guitar when he talked about taking off the back. Sounds like it could be cluster! I don't yet have a total understanding of the Floyd system. Gosh, you'd think there would be a decent You Tube of how to deal with these things, or a good video from PRS themselves. Thanks for the tip!
Mark
gush
Where is that speedo pic
There should be a vid on line somewhere. It doesnt have to be prs as the Floyd concept is the same no matter what guitar it's on. It's not too complicated and once you do it a few times yiu will be fine.
Putting the ball end at the tuner simply keeps string captured should you need to cut it and reuse it.
Good luck
Putting the ball end at the tuner simply keeps string captured should you need to cut it and reuse it.
Good luck
Howlingmine
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I wouldn't take my worst enemies guitar to GC. Learn to do it yourself and save yourself a TON of headaches.
_pete_
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mweston
New Member
Thank you for the URL to tweaking the Floyd. However, this stellar system still looks like a "CLUSTER" to me. I guess I'll replace one string at a time and take it back to my PRS-trained Luthier at GC once a year for fine-tuning. The video makes it look easy, but I don't think it's that easy. I still don't see a demonstration as to exactly how to change one string at a time. I'm a guitar player, NOT a luthier!!! How do I replace just one string...step-by-step...point-by-point...screw-by-screw...snip-by-snip? Again, I'm a "newbie" at this relatively "unorthodox" system and still don't know how to change just one string! I need a video as to how to change just one string at a time.
Thank you.
Mark
Thank you.
Mark
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mweston
New Member
Looks like I found a suitable You Tube for changing strings on a Floyd system. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s_qLi_cWQLc
It's not a PRS, but I think I can figure the rest out. Seems a bit cumbersome with the allen wrenches and all, but I'm sure I'll get used to it.
I am still hesitant about opening up the back and messing with the spring tension.
I appreciate the tip of leaving a few winds on the tuner for some extra string in case of breakage at the saddle.
Thank you to everyone else who contributed. I will still bring the PRS to my luthier once a year for fine tuning.
Thank you.
Mark
It's not a PRS, but I think I can figure the rest out. Seems a bit cumbersome with the allen wrenches and all, but I'm sure I'll get used to it.
I am still hesitant about opening up the back and messing with the spring tension.
I appreciate the tip of leaving a few winds on the tuner for some extra string in case of breakage at the saddle.
Thank you to everyone else who contributed. I will still bring the PRS to my luthier once a year for fine tuning.
Thank you.
Mark
Also not for PRS, but check this guy's info on setup: http://www.ibanezrules.com/tech/setup/index.htm
I am using Floyd Rose type of bridges since 1990. The trick for quicker changes to me is keeping the same brand and size of strings and stretching them a lot before finally tuning the guitar.
Different brands will have a slighly different tension for the same size of strings. I found the Daddario sets to be the most constant (I use 10's by the way).
I am using Floyd Rose type of bridges since 1990. The trick for quicker changes to me is keeping the same brand and size of strings and stretching them a lot before finally tuning the guitar.
Different brands will have a slighly different tension for the same size of strings. I found the Daddario sets to be the most constant (I use 10's by the way).
gush
Where is that speedo pic
If you use the same string gauge you shouldn't have to mess with the springs in the back. If you change string gauge then adjust springs to make trem parallel to the body like it should be now.
mweston
New Member
Yes, thank you. Seems clearer, now. Mine came with 10's and I think I'll stick with them. Yes, agree with Daddario. I think when I go to change, I'll use the alternate string method one at a time. I suppose I could change them all at once, though, but I'll think I'll try one at a time at first, provided I don't break a string in the meantime. I'll check out the Ibanezrules video soon.
Thanks all again.
Mark
Thanks all again.
Mark
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