I bought a used 2016 CE24 in 2018. I can tell that it was barely used before I bought it. I’ve taken it to two local and well-regarded luthiers for setup and made it clear that cost and time are far less important than getting it as close to perfect as possible. Both luthiers made the action too high and too much relief (according to me and PRS), and the intonation and tuning stability was not great. After making a little truss rod and string height adjustment to the luthier’s setup, regardless of the tuning and intonation issues, I LOVED playing the CE24 because of the feel and pickup tone. I’ve played every guitar I can get my hands on, and I absolutely do not like any sub $3k guitar better. After reading about the few CE24 flaws, I decided to replace the import bridge with a Mann USA, which did improve tuning stability and overall tone (to my liking). Since replacing the bridge is very technical and requires precision, after disappointing results from two luthiers, I purchased a good caliper and some measuring gauges, watched a ton of PRS-specific setup videos, and carefully installed the bridge and setup the guitar to 100% factory specs, with one exception – I use 9-46 strings instead of factory 10-46. FINALLY she plays and sounds absolutely perfect all the way up and down the fretboard! However, there is one minor concern. I would like to know if any other 24 fret PRS owners or techs think this is something that can be or should be fixed. With perfect intonation (verified dozens of times), the saddles must be adjusted very far back into the bridge. I had to shorten all the springs. The relative position of each saddle is what you would expect, but the low E is all the way back with no spring, and the G is only a hair further forward. If this in “it is what it is” situation, I’m fine with it because I love the guitar and the sound is 100%. Other than getting life, is there anything else I should consider?
Current setup:
Current setup:
- Strings: Brand new NYXL 9-46. Setup first with an old set, then changed and stretched the strings before fine-tuning. Strings are installed as instructed with a 1/2 - 3/4 turn on the Phase II locking tuners. I know that all other things equal, heavier strings will be sharper on the 12th fret octave, and I’ve thought about using a standard ultra-light 9-42 set, but since 10-46 is factory, I assume that the 9-46 strings should setup just fine.
- Bridge: Upgraded to a Mann 2000NOS, which I believe to be the exact same design and mold as the factory CE24 import bridge, but the 2000NOS is solid brass, so it is heavier and has different resonant characteristics, and should not affect the string-height or length.
- Relief: Set to .006” between the low E and the 8th fret with a capo on the 1st fret and a finger on the 24th, which is on the straighter-end of the .005-.010 range of PRS factory setup.
- String height: High E at the 12th fret is 2/32” (aka 1/16” or 1.6mm). Low E at the 12th fret is 2.5/32” (aka 5/64” or 2mm). All strings in-between have a height in-between 2/32 and 2.5/32. Strings rest on an unaltered factory Nut, trem bridge set precisely to factory (Mann) float height, saddle height adjustment screws are a nice medium not really high or really low.
