Bridge Pin Help

Draconomics

Fearless Papa of The Brethren of the Crust
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Apologies if this has been asked before, but Im looking fir bridge pin replacements for my Angelus. Come to find out the sockets are smaller than standard pins, so I bought an ebony set and had to carve them down. Rather not have to do that again, so any help would be awesome. :)
 
Apologies if this has been asked before, but Im looking fir bridge pin replacements for my Angelus. Come to find out the sockets are smaller than standard pins, so I bought an ebony set and had to carve them down. Rather not have to do that again, so any help would be awesome. :)

Most all aftermarket bridge pin sets available on the internet will not likely fit SE A##E Angelus or T## Tonare guitars. According to the bridge pin makers, the only solution to an incorrect fit is sanding the pins down to a proper fit.

(I know this is a PITA and takes forever. It's your only option.)

What I did with mine was use this (see below) and hold the head of the pin with the clamp. I then used a fold of heavy grit sandpaper and had at it for about 15 minutes each pin. (Yes, it was a lot of busy work, but the bridge pins sit better (not flush) with the bridge compared to how high they sat, and would not fit before.)

If I ever choose to have at it again with the sandpaper between string changes, that is an option for a better fit. The process was just too much at the time to produce the correct fit when expediency was more important.

Yig7FEp.jpg


4cL3jh2.jpg
 
Most all aftermarket bridge pin sets available on the internet will not likely fit SE A##E Angelus or T## Tonare guitars. According to the bridge pin makers, the only solution to an incorrect fit is sanding the pins down to a proper fit.

(I know this is a PITA and takes forever. It's your only option.)

What I did with mine was use this (see below) and hold the head of the pin with the clamp. I then used a fold of heavy grit sandpaper and had at it for about 15 minutes each pin. (Yes, it was a lot of busy work, but the bridge pins sit better (not flush) with the bridge compared to how high they sat, and would not fit before.)

If I ever choose to have at it again with the sandpaper between string changes, that is an option for a better fit. The process was just too much at the time to produce the correct fit when expediency was more important.

Yig7FEp.jpg


4cL3jh2.jpg
Was affraid it was gonna be the elbow grease route. Ill have to try again. The ebony set I carved worked, but one split. I wouldnt have replaced the stock ones but they were plastic, kinda bent, and smelled a little like Marlboros.
 
Was affraid it was gonna be the elbow grease route. Ill have to try again. The ebony set I carved worked, but one split. I wouldnt have replaced the stock ones but they were plastic, kinda bent, and smelled a little like Marlboros.

Personally, I used bone with abalone dots. These hold up better than ebony, even though ebony is a hard and dense wood. PRS does make replacement bridge pins, though they are plastic. I think I've got an unopened spare PRS set I can send to you...
 
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You could always wrap some cloth around the top of the peg (to protect it). Put it into a battery screwdriver and hold the sand paper on it as it rotates. Might save a bit of time.

Or, you could use a battery powered drill with paper stock around the edge of the top. Thanks for the tip, Reub!
 
Took Reub's (Alnus) advice and tried using a powered drill for sanding the bone bridge pins that were riding high in the bridge. It took about 5 to 7 minutes per pin, with 150 grit sandpaper. It was possible to simply hold the pin within the bit grips of the drill, and use a fold of sandpaper to sand while the drill rotated the pin.

After, I was re-stringing the guitar, and bringing the guitar up to tune. The G-string bridge pin popped out, and shot across the room. (Didn't see where it went.)

So for the next 30 minutes, I combed the room, looking on the rug, within the nearest bookcase, under the chairs and sofa, in the front lobby, just about anywhere I could think the pin might have gone. Bupkis.

As a last ditch effort, I began searching the top of my dining room table. The lazy susan? Nope. The chocolates dish? Nope. The bookstand? Nope. Under the chocolates dish? YES! There you are you bastid!

Well, frustration soon became relief. The G-string was reinstalled and the guitar brought up to tune.

Here's a couple before/after pics of the reworked sanded pins that now sit flush with the bridge. Before, they looked like this:

4cL3jh2.jpg


Now, this:

557iqN3.jpg
 
Took Reub's (Alnus) advice and tried using a powered drill for sanding the bone bridge pins that were riding high in the bridge. It took about 5 to 7 minutes per pin, with 150 grit sandpaper. It was possible to simply hold the pin within the bit grips of the drill, and use a fold of sandpaper to sand while the drill rotated the pin.

After, I was re-stringing the guitar, and bringing the guitar up to tune. The G-string bridge pin popped out, and shot across the room. (Didn't see where it went.)

So for the next 30 minutes, I combed the room, looking on the rug, within the nearest bookcase, under the chairs and sofa, in the front lobby, just about anywhere I could think the pin might have gone. Bupkis.

As a last ditch effort, I began searching the top of my dining room table. The lazy susan? Nope. The chocolates dish? Nope. The bookstand? Nope. Under the chocolates dish? YES! There you are you bastid!

Well, frustration soon became relief. The G-string was reinstalled and the guitar brought up to tune.

Here's a couple before/after pics of the reworked sanded pins that now sit flush with the bridge. Before, they looked like this:

4cL3jh2.jpg


Now, this:

557iqN3.jpg
Nicely done! I do have a dremel with a stylus, if I hold the pin head in a vice, that might do what I need. Ill have to try again. Im glad at least I only dusted a 13 dollar pin set. I had the urge to try those Martin things which are some kind of odd material, but If I gooched one of those sets Id be livid.

And of course, its the G pin that decided to take flight. Why would it be anyone else?
 
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Nicely done! I do have a dremel with a stylus, if I hold the pin head in a vice, that might do what I need. Ill have to try again. Im glad at least I only dusted a 13 dollar pin set. I had the urge to try those Martin things which are some kind of odd material, but If I gooched one of those sets Id be livid.

And of course, its the G pin that decided to take flight. Whay would it be anyone else?

You might find that a dremel might not produce equal sanding the circumference of the pin. How do you plan on doing the sanding again? You might need something that will rotate the pin, but enable you to hold the sandpaper. (More control, less unequal sanding)

A battery-powered drill does work, as will a battery-powered screwdriver (though the screwdriver will take longer because of the slower rotation speed).

Amazon has numerous bone or boutique wood pin sets (comparatively inexpensive) with various dot or abalone tops.

The key is to not overdo the sanding and check the bridge fit occasionally before setting aside the pins as done. The g-string pin was indeed the most sanded and as you can see in the image, sits the closest to the bridge.
 
You might find that a dremel might not produce equal sanding the circumference of the pin. How do you plan on doing the sanding again? You might need something that will rotate the pin, but enable you to hold the sandpaper. (More control, less unequal sanding)

A battery-powered drill does work, as will a battery-powered screwdriver (though the screwdriver will take longer because of the slower rotation speed).

Amazon has numerous bone or boutique wood pin sets (comparatively inexpensive) with various dot or abalone tops.

The key is to not overdo the sanding and check the bridge fit occasionally before setting aside the pins as done. The g-string pin was indeed the most sanded and as you can see in the image, sits the closest to the bridge.

The dremel idea would be a more difficult route, Ill admit. Ive done detail sanding with 1/4" drums and coarse stones, but getting even sanding around the pin would be tricky. I do have a drill, but its older and I cant get chargers for it anymore. Guess its time to finally get a new one. Lol
 
The dremel idea would be a more difficult route, Ill admit. Ive done detail sanding with 1/4" drums and coarse stones, but getting even sanding around the pin would be tricky. I do have a drill, but its older and I cant get chargers for it anymore. Guess its time to finally get a new one. Lol

No need to waste money on a new drill...a rechargeable battery screwdriver with adjustable drill chuck will work. Anything with an adjustable chuck will work if the chuck can be rotary powered...

And yes, I can see how a dremel might prove difficult. Regards the drill, if you need one for your workshop, there are 2nd hand stores...even garage sales and Goodwill might have what you're looking for cheap...

There are a lot of places you can find one cheap...just don't buy the misinformation about having to spend more than necessary to do the job correctly.
 
I’ll see if I can change my pins this weekend. Been meaning to. Figured it would take sanding down the bone and constant checking for fit. I wish PRS gave us an option for an upgrade.
 
I’ll see if I can change my pins this weekend. Been meaning to. Figured it would take sanding down the bone and constant checking for fit. I wish PRS gave us an option for an upgrade.

It would be nice, but PRS didn't provide a ballpark approximation for their regular pins. I did purchase a set of plastic PRS standard pins in case the A60E ever might need a return to an original set.

I've also got a set of black pins with white dots (no end pin, though) housed in a D'Addario box in case anyone would like to experiment with a bridge pin set. The black pin set was extracted from a Yamaha AC-3 prior to upgrading the pins.

I no longer own the Yamaha, but kept its original black pins. I think the pins are plastic as well, but they're free to anyone who might make use of them, as are the PRS pins, initially offered to @Draconomics...
 
I’ll see if I can change my pins this weekend. Been meaning to. Figured it would take sanding down the bone and constant checking for fit. I wish PRS gave us an option for an upgrade.

Just thought to add that the drill bit chuck sanding method produces an even sand the circumference of the pin. All that is required is to hold a curved fold of sandpaper around the pin while the drill bit rotates (fast or slow) in the chuck.

Using a heavier grit will get the job done faster than finer grit. No need to produce a finely sanded bone pin; you want some grip from the sanded edges to grasp the insides of the bridge holes.

Be aware that if you make the pin sit too flush with the bridge, you may have greater difficulty extracting the pin next time you do a string change. A workaround for this problem is inserting your hand through the sound hole and pushing upwards on the bridge pin.

If the pin fits loosely, there will be less chance of the pin getting stuck inside the bridge, as mine did before I used the drill sanding method.
 
Regards the drill, if you need one for your workshop, there are 2nd hand stores...even garage sales and Goodwill might have what you're looking for cheap...

You wanna hear something funny? I manage a hardware store as my day job. I literally have about ten grand worth of drills in my shop. Jeez Im cheap.
 
Finally did it. I installed some bone pins with abalone dots on my A60e. Looks a lot better if you ask me. Now I have abalone dot bone pins to match the guitars details and truss rod cover.
But more importantly…Better tone? I’ll need to play more to see if I can hear a major difference.
 
Finally did it. I installed some bone pins with abalone dots on my A60e. Looks a lot better if you ask me. Now I have abalone dot bone pins to match the guitars details and truss rod cover.
But more importantly…Better tone? I’ll need to play more to see if I can hear a major difference.

Nice! And, agreed on tone. While we may not be able to A/B the plastic vs the bone, so we'll just need to listen for any minor changes. I do consider any improvement a form of progress, so there is that.
 
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