Are there Rules of Thumb re: Neck Shape?

[Great Gazoo]

Another thread prompted this question, but I didn't want to hijack that one so ...

So are there general sorts of indicators that suggest neck shape/carve profiles that complement the player's hand, er, geometry, and/or the style(s) of music one plays (or hopes to)? Or, rather, is this a question almost entirely of personal "feel" - at least within the PRS universe?

I realize this is sort of a noob question (which describes me perfectly vis-a-vis guitar playing). My only experience is the neck on my SE custom vs. a Epiphone Les Paul Studio which I was borrowing.

 

[László]

It’s 100% feel and personal preference. No rules at all.

 

[Bowtiefanatc]

^^^

X1000 feel all the way

 

[shimmilou]

...My only experience is the neck on my SE custom vs. a Epiphone Les Paul Studio which I was borrowing.

Depending on which Custom you have, the neck is either Wide/Fat or Wide/Thin, which to me are much more comfortable than the Epi slim D shape, with those squared shoulders.

 

[Mozzi]

Another thread prompted this question, but I didn't want to hijack that one so ...

So are there general sorts of indicators that suggest neck shape/carve profiles that complement the player's hand, er, geometry, and/or the style(s) of music one plays (or hopes to)? Or, rather, is this a question almost entirely of personal "feel" - at least within the PRS universe?

I realize this is sort of a noob question (which describes me perfectly vis-a-vis guitar playing). My only experience is the neck on my SE custom vs. a Epiphone Les Paul Studio which I was borrowing.

Its completely personal preference. It doesn't even matter if you are looking to be a Shred player either, its all down to comfort and what you, the player, likes. There is this misconception that you have to have a thin neck, flat fretboard to play fast - but not Yngwie for example whilst others find the thin necks are too thin. What matters is what you the player feels comfortable with which may well be the type of guitar you start out on, practice and practice on, become most familiar with. No one should tell you what guitar is best for you neck wise and its something that you will need to discover for yourself. Someone like Rob Chapman (Chapman Guitars, Anderton's) who demo's brands from cheap to really expensive, from thin to thick necks and a whole variety of guitars and, whilst he may have his 'preference', it rarely stops him from playing what he wants which often ends up being shred.

What is most important is the practice, building up muscle memory and knowledge. If you get a chance to try other guitars, take that opportunity and see how they feel to you. Even if it means going to local music shops and trying different guitars there to get a feel of different necks to have some idea on what feels best to you. You have a point of reference so its a case of which feels better.

 

[Huggy Love]

If you can wrap your thumb around it .............. it works.

 

[bodia]

Almost all personal preference.

 

[Wakester]

If I can get my thumb around it, it rules

 

[jvin248]

.

Reported neck specs (nut width and depth) are basically meaningless. Carve shape is all important and it's difficult to figure out most of the time. The brands would do a better job for customers if they reported 'Circumference' as that is the thing that players feel. PRS 'Wide Fat' 'Pattern' and so on designations don't tell people what they want to know, especially new conversion customers that they are trying to capture. Some players want a skinny shredder neck while other players want a beefy chunky neck or they get cramps in their fingers and its more difficult to hit chords accurately.

Here's a good test: Find a Squier Strat (bullet or affinity). Maybe you have one maybe a friend does maybe you have to go find one in a pawn shop. Invariably Squier Strats have a thin carve but practically (within 0.5mm, which is nothing) the same nut width and neck depth as the Fender MIM/MIA models -- but circumference is completely different. The Squiers usually have a carve that starts from the fretboard face and cuts back to the neck depth with an acute angle, resulting in a 'knife edge'. MIM/MIA starts their carving behind the fretboard glue line so there are flats on the sides and much more wood left on the shoulders between the fretboard and the back of the neck. Sometimes, especially looking at rosewood fretboard Squier Strats from the back of the neck you can see fretboard strips on both sides of the neck -- so you know it's that acute angle carve. Sometimes a close up side picture of the Squier Strat neck helps to see where the carve starts. Then from there you can start to see what is the deal with all the other brands guitar necks relative to your preference.

.

 

[Great Gazoo]

Thanks for the replies.

Depending on which Custom you have, the neck is either Wide/Fat or Wide/Thin, which to me are much more comfortable than the Epi slim D shape, with those squared shoulders.

I have the wide/thin I believe (SE Custom 24, Sweetwater scheme <= avatar).

What prompted my question, at the risk of tl;dr, is an analogy to golf. Beginners often hold/swing a club in a way that feels natural/comfortable, but which is, more-or-less, objectively incorrect - or at least problematic. So as a beginner one learns to incorporate certain motor skills and grip/swing geometry. Once one reaches a certain level of skill and reproducibility, then subtle changes in grip and swing plane can be incorporated to produce certain ball flights. I know this is somewhat generalized and simplified (and there are some decent home-made swings out there (Jim Furyk cough)), but it made me wonder about a similar sort of scheme vis-a-vis guitars.

When my SECu24 arrived, I noted immediately that the neck felt "different" compared to the Epiphone and that it seemed to allow my (small) hand a more confident position, but I also wondered whether this might be a false signal as with a golf grip.

Anyway, just some background to my OP.

 

[shimmilou]

That makes perfect sense Gazoo. My first PRS, Custom 22, has a Wide/Fat neck, which I feel is the most comfortable for me, although I like the Wide/Thin on the SE Custom 24 also, quite comfortable.

 

[Screamingdaisy]

IMO, Wide/Fat isn’t all that fat and Wide/Thin isn’t all that thin. Neither will make or break a guitar for me. The descriptions make it seem like they’re the extremes but both are kind of middle of the road.

IMO, there is no universally agreed upon “correct” way to play a guitar, although some (including Mel-Bay) will insist there is. Some guys play seated in classical position and others never sit down. Some people have rediculously long arms or giant hands. Some will strap it on their chest and others will have it down on their thigh. A guy that wants to sweep pick 64th notes at a kajillion MPH will favour a different position than a guy that wants to pound downstrokes on the E string at 220 bpm, which is different from the guy who wants to strum cowboy chords at mid-tempo. A flat-top guitar with a neck that sticks straight out (PRS S2) is going to hang different than a carved top guitar with a neck that has some layback (PRS Core).

Long story short, everyone is different and as you develop your guitar swing is going to change. Unless you’re going to dedicate yourself entirely to one style there’s no shortcut to the finish line. If you’re going to play a multitude of styles you may need to adopt a position and technique that’s the best possible compromise that will allow you to play what you need/want to play.