)
from my phone flying out of my hand onto the guitar. It was very small and it didn't bother me too much. I took it in to get a full setup from my local tech who is fantastic. After he finished polishing he frets, he went to remove the painters tape from the neck which took off some of the finish with it . Seeing that I'm not original owner of this guitar, PRS could've charged me, but this shop (Wild West Guitars) has a great relationship with PRS so they took care of me.
(Take a deep breath Gian
My SC58 in Sandstorm Fade was actually refinished last year. I actually had it done free of charge, but there's a reason for that. A couple years ago not too long after I received it, I put a very small dent on the top
This was one of the first guitars that came with the original release of the v12 finish which had some problems at the time. It came back dent free and looking better than new. Dare I say it even feels better than before because they refinished it in Nitro this time. I would recommend it no hesitation. Might be a little pricey, but it will be fantastic. I'll post a pic when I get home.
It's a pretty deep subject to go into so I'd advise lookin' at as many websites and videos about refinishing as you can before taking the leap.
I've done 'em before (and will do 'em again) and it's a really fun project. The best part is feeling naughty about flying in the face of danger over the possibility of "screwing up a PRS"
My basic advice:
1) Go easy with the sandpaper. You can't get wood back.
2) If you go with a chemical removal process, be mindful of the faux binding. You won't want color-bleed from leftover/dripping stain or dye
3) Get some pin-striping tape for the inner horn line.
4) Find the hardest clear coat available to you (automotive stuff is made to have some "flex" like it's slightly rubbery).
5) It's all about the final clear coat, you'll want to spray it one last time before buffing (in my experience).
6) Don't expect to nail it on your first time.
7) Patience is the most important tool in your toolbox.
8) Wait for that sh!t to dry.
9) Wait for that sh!t to dry some more.
10) Have fun, drink, take pics, share 'em with us, and wait for that sh!t to dry even more.
Good luck! You can do it!
It's a pretty deep subject to go into so I'd advise lookin' at as many websites and videos about refinishing as you can before taking the leap.
I've done 'em before (and will do 'em again) and it's a really fun project. The best part is feeling naughty about flying in the face of danger over the possibility of "screwing up a PRS"
My basic advice:
1) Go easy with the sandpaper. You can't get wood back.
2) If you go with a chemical removal process, be mindful of the faux binding. You won't want color-bleed from leftover/dripping stain or dye
3) Get some pin-striping tape for the inner horn line.
4) Find the hardest clear coat available to you (automotive stuff is made to have some "flex" like it's slightly rubbery).
5) It's all about the final clear coat, you'll want to spray it one last time before buffing (in my experience).
6) Don't expect to nail it on your first time.
7) Patience is the most important tool in your toolbox.
8) Wait for that sh!t to dry.
9) Wait for that sh!t to dry some more.
10) Have fun, drink, take pics, share 'em with us, and wait for that sh!t to dry even more.
Good luck! You can do it!
I refinished this CE 24 years ago using Reranch gold and clear coats. It was really a lot of work but a fun project. I remember taking it to one of the early PRS Forum events at the factory and Paul picked it up and said " this isn't my color...who did this?" after I fessed up he told me nice job except for a few sanding scratches!
