Any Surfers?

[justmund]

Been thinking of learning...

Anyone here surf or used to?

 

[sergiodeblanc]

Seriously the hardest "board" sport I have ever tried. I've been skating for 25 years and can snowboard well enough, but the three days I spent trying to surf humbled me. The fact that the wave's transition is a living, and constantly changing organism that will never be the same twice, makes me have the utmost respect for surfers... it's also almost impossible to smoke while doing it.

 

[veinbuster]

My experience is much like Sergio's. For most of my life I tried a new sport every year. I tried surfing on a visit to Australia and found it very challenging. I love the water though and if I lived closer to an ocean, I would probably be a surfer.

 

[László]

Big props to surfers!

I tried surfing in California a bunch 'o years ago, and found the entire experience very painful! My knees hurt from paddling out, my head hurt from the board hitting it when I fell, and my brain hurt from seeing a very large fish swim under the board in the few seconds that I was actually managing to stand up and ride!

I can ski, water ski, windsurf...but surfing a wave was a one-time experience for me!

 

[sergiodeblanc]

Hey, don't let us talk you out of trying! It could be the best thing in the world if you can get the hang of it.

 

[Shawn@PRS]

You live on an island, there must be some killer surf fairly close to home

 

[themike]

I have a few friends who do it but its not something I'm into. Eastern Long Island (Montauk) has some seriously killer surf!

 

[dbonanno]

I surf the net every day.
I'm practically a pro. :biggrin:

 

[Rango]

Surfed several times a week for years.... Still wasn't any "good" but just enjoyed being in the water.
Lived in Huntington Beach and was right next to Bolsa Chica State Beach so 9 months of the year I was there as many days as I could swing. I actually took most of the summer OFF - too many people!

If you want to learn get one of those BIG foam covered long boards and find a long slow break on a small wave day 1 to 3 is PLENTY. If it's 4 to 6 sounds good but you really have no idea how big a 6 foot wave is until you are looking down about to go over the falls! :laugh:

 

[justmund]

Hey, don't let us talk you out of trying! It could be the best thing in the world if you can get the hang of it.

I'm the kind of person that becomes more determined when someone says it's hard, or I can't do it! So if anything, I'm more inspired now haha

You live on an island, there must be some killer surf fairly close to home

Mate, there's some killer surf alright (about 1.5 hours drive from home plus a walk, I've done the walk to here many times but have never seen when the surf has been working...)

I surf the net every day.
I'm practically a pro. :biggrin:

:laugh:

If you want to learn get one of those BIG foam covered long boards and find a long slow break on a small wave day 1 to 3 is PLENTY. If it's 4 to 6 sounds good but you really have no idea how big a 6 foot wave is until you are looking down about to go over the falls! :laugh:

I'll give it a shot, cheers!

 

[Shawn@PRS]

If you're seeing surf like that, you might want to stay out of the water. Those waves are insane!

 

[LJD]

I surf. Do it. Riding a wave is one of the greatest thrills in life. It's the most fun you'll have in the ocean. Be a strong, safe (aware) ocean swimmer. Start on a bigger board, you'll catch more waves and therefore have more fun learning.

 

[LJD]

And so you all appreciate the weight of a big wave like that:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zj3sIFtfb4g

 

[justmund]

If you're seeing surf like that, you might want to stay out of the water. Those waves are insane!

I wouldn't go anywhere near something like that, my idea of awesome surfing is waves about 1.5 times my height, getting tubular in the barrel... or something...

I surf. Do it. Riding a wave is one of the greatest thrills in life. It's the most fun you'll have in the ocean. Be a strong, safe (aware) ocean swimmer. Start on a bigger board, you'll catch more waves and therefore have more fun learning.

I swim in the ocean pretty much every weekend (yes even in winter, and yes, without a wetsuit), not big waves but I'm pretty confident in the water and can read rips etc. I'll def start on a bigger board, thanks for the tip!

And so you all appreciate the weight of a big wave like that:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zj3sIFtfb4g

Crazy!!!

 

[captdg]

I used to but then I took a flight lesson..When I saw all these black "dots" just beyond the surf break, I asked my instructor if it was what I thought it was.. Yep, Bull Sharks feeding..Like Paparazzi around a courthouse when Lindsey Lohan is in session.

 

[Albrecht Smuten]

I'm the kind of person that becomes more determined when someone says it's hard, or I can't do it! So if anything, I'm more inspired now haha

I'm pretty sure Sergio meant that for Les. Give it some more try, Les

 

[Fox77]

Surfing's on top of my list of things to try.

Skateboarded for 13 years, then a break of 10+ years for boardsports, now into snowboarding. But if I read the above correctly, that won't help me at all on a surfboard... Well maybe that I know that I have a goofy stance.