Amp advice

CandidPicker said:
+1 re: the Egnater 40W Tweaker head. Footswitchable, takes pedals well, (no reverb), FX loop, IIRC 4/8/16 ohm speaker adaptable, was my interim amp between my Fuchs ODS-50 H/C and ODS-30 H/C. A lot of amp for the money and within your budget used.
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Any reason you recommend the 40 version over the 15 Tweaker?
 
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pac90 said:
You still have that 8ohm 1x12?

The best bang for the buck would be a used (they don't break) Boss Katana head. Its best of current tech for assimilating tubes, and robust, portable and will work well with your speaker. It also has an inbuilt practice speaker
The whole katana range sounds good at low volume too. I had an egnater 15w and it needed some goose to sound good, the kat keeps the sound character at very low volumes
There are also a lot of boss effects built in so its a good all rounder.

If you don't like it or when you upgrade you can probably sell a used one for same money anyhoo, so a no brainer
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I do have the 1x12 still; held onto that at least.

Definitely considering the Boss. It’s at the top of the heap right now with the Egnater
 
I would definitely go with the Boss, they make great stuff, never been disappointed with anything of theirs I've ever gotten.
 
bigcountry said:
Any reason you recommend the 40 version over the 15 Tweaker?
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The tube complement. 2x6L6 vs ?x6V6. Warmer cleans, the added preamp stage of the 40W tone IMHO sounds better to my ears. Tighter bass, better EQ controls.

With the 15W, less headroom, quicker time to amp breakup, less versatility. And, the 15W sounds "thinner", not as rich or full.

To many, tone is everything, the 40W, IMHO, just "sounds better and pushes more air." An 1x12 8 ohm 80 or 100W RMS speaker cab would go perfectly with the 40W. Check out the Eminence Patriot Red/White/Blue sound clips on their website.
 
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CandidPicker said:
The tube complement. 2x6L6 vs ?x6V6. Warmer cleans, the added preamp stage of the 40W tone IMHO sounds better to my ears. Tighter bass, better EQ controls.

With the 15W, less headroom, quicker time to amp breakup, less versatility. And, the 15W sounds "thinner", not as rich or full.

To many, tone is everything, the 40W, IMHO, just "sounds better and pushes more air." An 1x12 8 ohm 80 or 100W RMS speaker cab would go perfectly with the 40W. Check out the Eminence Patriot Red/White/Blue sound clips on their website.
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I gotcha. I’m looking at the 40 now; and I think I am covered as my 1x12 is loaded with a v30
 
bigcountry said:
I gotcha. I’m looking at the 40 now; and I think I am covered as my 1x12 is loaded with a v30
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Just be sure to check the RMS wattage of the V30. IIRC, my combo amp is 35W RMS but had a V30 previously...I think you'll be good with the V30 RMS...

...Am partial to the Eminence Patriot Red/White/Blue 100W for improved headroom, and also the Celestion Neodynium Vintage G12 80W, for lighter weight. My combo currently has the Celestion in it, and makes it easier to lift/carry the amp.
 
CandidPicker said:
Les,

You wouldn't happen to know the peak wattage of the V30, would you? (Too busy to google presently)
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Have they ever even given them that kind of rating? Normally "peak" ratings are more associated with the bogus stuff. Or, well, you know what I mean... FRFR's that show no continuous RMS rating but show "2000 watts peak" and that kind of nonsense. "Peak wattage," "peak dB ratings" etc are usually at least exaggerated and many times WAY exaggerated, and totally unachievable in any real world usage conditions. One FRFR claiming 131dB peak output, was tested by a professional at TGP and it couldn't get over 122dB with any test they tried in the lab, even for a split second burst.
 
CandidPicker said:
Les,

You wouldn't happen to know the peak wattage of the V30, would you? (Too busy to google presently)
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There is no way to specify peak power without lots of conditionals. For example "power measured in 10 nanoseconds with an input pulse of 1ns risetime and 50V peak". Peak power always presumes a defined input, usually a pulse. RMS is much more useful because it only requires the average power, no information about frequency content or crest factor is required.

If you are concerned about the transitional nature of guitar, you would have to specify a pulse, and then run the test yourself as I doubt you'll find that data online. RMS will tell you when you melt the speaker, peak will tell you when the coil jumps out of the magnet.
 
elvis said:
There is no way to specify peak power without lots of conditionals. For example "power measured in 10 nanoseconds with an input pulse of 1ns risetime and 50V peak".
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Exactly! One tester at TGP did some calculations and said something like "for this FRFR to reach it's quoted peak power output and SPL, you 110v wall outlet would have to be running at about 147 volts." Hence my "bogus" remark above. It's all marketing BS and most of it, to anyone who knows what the real stuff means, means NOTHING.

They are definitely doing burst type ratings and since most of the amps are Class D, they can't come close to sustaining that power, unlike a Class A/B SS amp for example. And, given the transformer and voltage to do so, most tube amps can easily put out more sustained wattage than they are rated at. Oh, and many of the Class D amps are rated at 10% THD. Not 1%. Not .1%. Not .001% TEN PERCENT!

In other words, "Marketing BS!" (yes, I'm in a bad mood today! I need a new job. This one is making me sick)
 
There are some good deals on the PRS 2 Channel H , I really like mine at any volume it mates nicely with the 1x12 I have it going into, a nice change of pace to the MKV
 
DreamTheaterRules said:
Have they ever even given them that kind of rating? Normally "peak" ratings are more associated with the bogus stuff. Or, well, you know what I mean... FRFR's that show no continuous RMS rating but show "2000 watts peak" and that kind of nonsense. "Peak wattage," "peak dB ratings" etc are usually at least exaggerated and many times WAY exaggerated, and totally unachievable in any real world usage conditions. One FRFR claiming 131dB peak output, was tested by a professional at TGP and it couldn't get over 122dB with any test they tried in the lab, even for a split second burst.
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Wasn't aware of that. Just hoped to provide @bigcountry with some leeway regards what would nominally work with a 40W amp. If 60W RMS is the V30 power handling capability, that info might be enough to work with.

P.S. Take a Midol. I hear it works wonders on toothaches, too. :)

elvis said:
There is no way to specify peak power without lots of conditionals. For example "power measured in 10 nanoseconds with an input pulse of 1ns risetime and 50V peak". Peak power always presumes a defined input, usually a pulse. RMS is much more useful because it only requires the average power, no information about frequency content or crest factor is required.

If you are concerned about the transitional nature of guitar, you would have to specify a pulse, and then run the test yourself as I doubt you'll find that data online. RMS will tell you when you melt the speaker, peak will tell you when the coil jumps out of the magnet.
Click to expand...

You must have taken some good courses in college and received some good on-the-job training. This is all Greek to an electronics newb.
 
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