Adjustable Bridges - PRS vs Mann vs others

[John Beef]

I picked up a used PRS adjustable bridge the other day, and immediately afterward got an email from John Mann saying he had some of his version in stock. Just wondering if anyone has had both, and could compare and contrast any differences? Also, there are some others out there, Schroeder, Pigtail, etc.

Somehow I opened the "new bridge" rabbit hole when I upgraded to a Mann bridge on my SE277 and now I've got New Bridge Fever, which can lead to living under old bridges downtown if one isn't careful.

 

[Broseph]

I have had both. I find the John Mann seems to resonate more and does not wobble as much on the stud as the PRS stock one. The MannMade is extremely light in weight. Both are easy to adjust action and intonate. Some people prefer locking studs to prevent bridge lean or concerns of losing the set action during string changes. That can be accommodated with tape on the studs during a full string change or going about them one at a time. I personally don’t think locking studs resonate as well. Do a drop test with studs and you will hear a huge difference in brands.

 

[tdarian]

I like the Mann 2300 adjustable with Schroeder locking studs. Never tried a PRS adjustable.

 

[sergiodeblanc]

I didn’t care for the Mann adjustable bridge @bodia gave me, glad I got to try it, but felt it kinda messed with the string tension. Probably would’ve been great with down tuned stuff... I dunno.

The PRS adjustable that Hans gave me didn’t do the same thing to the tension (on a different guitar though) so I kinda prefer that one.

I live and will die by John’s 2000 NOS trem though.

 

[DISTORT6]

I have a Mann 2300 on one of my Singlecuts that is tuned down to B Standard. No way Could I make that happen without it. Bridge cables and a wound 3rd.

 

[gush]

I put a used prs adjustable on my McCarty plus locking studs.

So far I like it and my wife hasn't tossed me out.........yet.

Don't have a lot of bridges here so not sure what I'd do!?!?!

 

[CandidPicker]

Good information thus far, folks!

Could someone tell us if the John Mann adjustable bridge requires separate bridge posts, or can you simply install JM bridge studs into PRS bridge posts, along with the JM adjustable bridge? This might be helpful for folks trying to choose between a PRS adjustable bridge and a John Mann adjustable who might be reluctant removing the existing bridge posts...

 

[dogrocketp]

I only have a couple of stoptails. I ALWAYS use the schroeder locking studs. I absolutely love the Schroeder Boattail bridge for palm muting. I also put a one piece core bridge on an SE Singlecut, and it sounds great on that guitar. If there is any bridge lean at all, I'm going with the Schroeder.

 

[bodia]

Good information thus far, folks!

Could someone tell us if the John Mann adjustable bridge requires separate bridge posts, or can you simply install JM bridge studs into PRS bridge posts, along with the JM adjustable bridge? This might be helpful for folks trying to choose between a PRS adjustable bridge and a John Mann adjustable who might be reluctant removing the existing bridge posts...

You can leave the PRS anchors in.

 

[DISTORT6]

You can leave the PRS anchors in.

Yes. The Mann posts thread right into the PRS stock anchors.

 

[tdarian]

I really didn’t notice much of a change in tension using Mann 2300, other than the fact that I used new strings when I swapped. After a day of settling everything felt familiar

 

[Broseph]

For what it’s worth I tried tone pros locking studs on a ZM. It does not screw as deep as the stock or John Mann. Sets the action higher than I liked. Took them out. Went with John Mann studs.

 

[CandidPicker]

You can leave the PRS anchors in.

Yes. The Mann posts thread right into the PRS stock anchors.

Awesome. Thanks. Flip-flopping now on choice of Mann-Made or PRS adjustable bridge. The brushed aluminum JM, or the polished PRS...? Hmm. Same flavor, different recipe... Will need to think about this.

 

[Broseph]

John has polished and satin aluminum on his website.

 

[CandidPicker]

John has polished and satin aluminum on his website.

Hmm. Didn't see polished JM's at the time I visited his site (perhaps sold out previously?)...will try again.

EDIT: Yup; they're posted. Anyone experience any issues with tightening the JM brass stud screws (aware that the studs are brass throughout) ?

 

[tdarian]

Hmm. Didn't see polished JM's at the time I visited his site (perhaps sold out previously?)...will try again.

EDIT: Yup; they're posted. Anyone experience any issues with tightening the JM brass stud screws (aware that the studs are brass throughout) ?

They are an easy direct fit into the stock PRS bushings.

 

[CandidPicker]

They are an easy direct fit into the stock PRS bushings.

Also noted that the MM polished USA nickel studs are direct replacements for the PRS brass/nickel studs. An added expense, but still will save a couple bucks and still appreciate better tone while keeping the esthetic look. Thanks for your counsel.

Will verify with JM if tone is better with the solid brass studs/polished aluminum MM bridge, or the nickel/brass MM studs. Am flexible, but seek better tone with the nickel studs, if possible.

 

[tdarian]

To my ears the Schroeder studs were preferable sonically to the Mann and TonePros locking studs. The difference was noticeable on the high E and B strings with “thicker” sound and more apparent sustain across the board. This was the case on both an SC245 and a Korina McCarty.

I preferred the look of the polished brass Mann Studs though!

I should have weighed the various studs but my guess is the Schroeder’s (nickel plated brass) would weigh more.

 

[CandidPicker]

To my ears the Schroeder studs were preferable sonically to the Mann and TonePros locking studs. The difference was noticeable on the high E and B strings with “thicker” sound and more apparent sustain across the board. This was the case on both an SC245 and a Korina McCarty.

I preferred the look of the polished brass Mann Studs though!

I should have weighed the various studs but my guess is the Schroeder’s (nickel plated brass) would weigh more.

Thanks for your reply.

Like many of us, I wasn't up on the details regards PRS, MannMade, and/or locking or non-locking studs. I learned that MannMade 2300's are direct replacements for PRS core and SE guitar bridges, however, MannMade studs are required when using MannMade bridges, in order to avoid wobble or bridge/stud off-angle leaning.

Reasonably, MannMade brass studs = better tone; MannMade gold or nickel studs = better looks.

However, when changing strings, I usually prefer to apply a strip of painter's tape across the studs to hold the bridge in place, before making any changes. It's a simple fix which doesn't require buying replacement parts like locking studs.

I could try either the solid brass, or nickel plated brass, and will likely choose the nickel plated brass studs for both the tone and esthetic look combined.

 

[John Mann]

Good information thus far, folks!

Could someone tell us if the John Mann adjustable bridge requires separate bridge posts, or can you simply install JM bridge studs into PRS bridge posts, along with the JM adjustable bridge? This might be helpful for folks trying to choose between a PRS adjustable bridge and a John Mann adjustable who might be reluctant removing the existing bridge posts...

The MannMade USA bridge should be compatible with PRS studs. Also visa versa... my studs should work with a PRS bridge. My bridge comes with the studs includes, so you could conceivably mix and match to your heart's content. Both PRS and MM-USA studs are machined from Brass, so I don't think one would hear a tonal difference. I would suspect that mine (MM-USA) are a tighter fit..

We do sell stud wells separately, but I wouldn't change them as a general rule....