100 watt attenuator, What would you use?

Elliot

Gandalf the Vintage Yellow
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Oct 13, 2016
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What would you use? Albert's in Indianapolis recommended Weber.

I see a Bugera 100 Watt passive attenuator for 100 bones on Sweetwater. Anyone had experience with that?

Passive vs. reactive?
 
I have one of these. Don't use it often, but when I do, it gets the job done. No idea on the Bugera, but for the price, and all of the positive reviews, I'd take a chance on it.
 
I have one of these. Don't use it often, but when I do, it gets the job done. No idea on the Bugera, but for the price, and all of the positive reviews, I'd take a chance on it.

I’m just so wary of positive reviews these days. I have no way of knowing whether they’re legit.

What attenuator do you use? And for what wattage of amp?
 
I’m just so wary of positive reviews these days. I have no way of knowing whether they’re legit.

What attenuator do you use? And for what wattage of amp?

Sorry, I was going to attach the link, but spaced it off. I have a Rivera Rockcrusher. Not the one with the EQ section. I have it hooked up to a 50w Archon, but don't use it often. The Archon sounds good enough at low volumes that I usually never use it.

http://www.rivera.com/product/attenuators-cab-sims/rockcrusher/
 
I’ve looked at those. they’re pricey.

I’m looking into a 100 watt amp so I need like a 200 or 150 watt attenuator
 
I used a rock crusher with an electradyne for years. Sold both. You're much better off with an amp that sounds good at the volume level you want. Or, if you have a plexi and MUST crank it, use a load box like the torpedo live or pdi03 into a small powered speaker. Much better results. My 100W amps sound great at low volume, most modern amps do.
 
I’m looking into a super six reverb.

Absolutely unnecessary and no logic behind it.

Like buying a Dodge Viper (just 1 enormous engine, no turbos no fancy stuff, just a huuuuge engine) when you could buy literally anything else.
 
I don't think there's any hope of getting that to sound right at low volume. You need to get the tens cooking. I still recommend a load box/speaker simulator and a small powered speaker. If you go more than 6dB with an attenuator you lose the presence.
 
I don't think there's any hope of getting that to sound right at low volume. You need to get the tens cooking. I still recommend a load box/speaker simulator and a small powered speaker. If you go more than 6dB with an attenuator you lose the presence.

Could you explain your last sentence?

My plan was taking it to an amp guy in Indy to get the speakers split up so I can run it in sets of two. That way I can plug just two speakers into the attenuator get the tubes cooking a bit and get the 2 speakers cranked a bit more than they would be if I had all six running.
 
Good attenuators are expensive and worth the money. Don’t skimp.

My issue is I just had a guy who definitely seemed like he knew what he was talking about say the exact opposite. He basically said he calculates the resistances required himself and attaches the resistors to a metal plate or two as a heat sink and that’s good enough for him. Basically he said he doesn’t think resistive load is inferior to reactive load.

I like to stay on the safe side so I’m not going to DIY anything but I thought his point was interesting.

I don’t know enough so I’m kind of going with the popular internet opinion that I’ll be happier with reactive load.
 
As someone who has done both, I suggest you play them and judge for your self. Science and your ears don’t lie. But I’ll add that I don’t like any attenuator. Size your cabs/speakers for the venue and be done with it. I’ve played 50w amps in some tiny bars.
 
This ^

You will find lots of opinions. You can run your speakers in series with incandescent light bulbs. But you can't expect it to sound the same as a speaker load. Maybe it's good enough. Certainly it's not terribly expensive for you to try the cheapest resistor load and prove it to yourself. I once made a reactive load. It was no more expensive than a resistive load. I wound the inductor myself. I've run a variety of loads, and I have my opinions. Do what you gotta do.
 
If you cut a little volume with an attenuator, it works pretty well. If you try to cut a lot, out gets muddy. Too smooth, no presence.

This.

I’ve also found that because it’ll load the amp a bit differently from the cab, I couldn’t get my usual speaker tone.

Nonetheless, they can be useful.
 
Horses for courses.

I've tried a bunch of attenuators and have had some success...at small amounts of attenuation. Taking a 100 watt amp down to pub or bedroom levels is going to be disappointing. You are better off with an amp that gets close to that level naturally.

Besides, just like guitars, you can't live with just one amp! I've found I like to play different amps almost as much as I like to switch up guitars. Out of 10, only one is over 36 watts.
 
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While I have zero experience with the OX, this unit (OX) has my attention....
 
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Sorry, I was going to attach the link, but spaced it off. I have a Rivera Rockcrusher. Not the one with the EQ section. I have it hooked up to a 50w Archon, but don't use it often. The Archon sounds good enough at low volumes that I usually never use it.

http://www.rivera.com/product/attenuators-cab-sims/rockcrusher/
I have the recording version with the 11 band EQ. It does a good job and is built like a tank. When I was looking for one, my choices came down to:
Rivera Rockcrusher
Radial Headload
Palmer PDI-03 or 04

The Rivera came up stupid cheap on Reverb (patience and determination Padawan) so I snagged it. It is extremely flexible because of the EQ, but like all loadboxes IMHO they can't help but colour your sound in some way. Usually deprecating the highs.
Since getting the Kemper though, it has gotten a tad dusty. Will still use it for my buddy when recording methinks.
 
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