Recent content by bbjonz

That's interesting! I wonder if it can be set up like the five-way Rotary, with positions 2 and 4 the inside and outside coils, respectively? EDIT: Just looked at the schematics – yes it can!

Thanks for your reply and for the tip regarding the hole. The tone pot in the McCarty set up is push/pull. I suspect the pot can still be used without wiring it for that functionality?

Hi All, I have a great 1997 CU 22, chambered, with a wraptail. A previous owner swapped in the McCarty harness, which I don't like nearly as much as the 5-way rotary. My question is what parts do I need to restore the rotary? Obviously, I need the rotary switch, a tone pot, and a volume pot...

That's a nice way to think about it. I used to love the fight from the .011s but sometimes the fight isn't all that much fun. Especially as I get older. I have a set of EXL110+ lying around (.015)--might give those a try, too.

Seems minimal but I think the wound construction makes it a bit stiffer. I tried the EXL110w set first, and then bought some single .18w strings from Strings and Beyond because I already had a 10-pack of EXL110s. Daddario offers a .17w--I wonder if that's just too floppy? The .18 seems to...

Um, yeah, yeah, that's the ticket! You know, that '96 CU 22 is my favorite PRS. Plain top and moons but it plays and sounds great, and as an added bonus weighs 6.7 lbs. In the unlikely event I decide to move it I should probably include those tuners.

Hi Guys, To make a long story short, I switched back to Dadarrio EXL110s after using EB Power Slinkies (.011). My one complaint with the 110s is the G string, so I gave the set with the wound third a whirl. I really like it, though it makes bending a tad more of a challenge. Overall, I like...

Seem like guys ask for that stuff, though. Not sure why. But I agree, condition is more important than the tag. My favorite PRS is a '96 CU 22 that weighs 6.7 lbs. No tags and I don't care...

Just replaced the winged tuners on my '96 CU 22 with Schallers. You need the M6 180 version, either top-locking or non-locking. I went with the latter. The "180" stands for the screw hole orientation, which is 180 degrees from the edge of the headstock--basically a straight line. And you...