Replacing tuners on SE Custom

judetherocker

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Hi all,
I am thinking of putting PRS locking tuners on my SE Custom 24 (pictured) but I was told by someone from my local music shop that I would need to drill new holes in the headstock. Does anyone know if this is the case and if not can I fit Phase II or III locking machine heads into my guitar?
Thanks
401419_422872164426865_286539044_n.jpg
 
Actually direct replacements are grover 406c tuners. Just put them on my se24 and very easy to install
 
I have yet to justify locking tuners for my SE Custom 24
Just did a nut and it rings and chimes and stays tuned pretty well even with vibrato bar use
Thinking Grovers better choice IMHO
 
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I know this thread is old, but... I see 3 types of tuners shown as direct fits in the discussion... however, looking at my Stew Mac catalogue... these tuners dont have the same identical foot print.... anyone know which really fit with no drilling? Grover 406C, Gotoh Magnum, Schaller M6 (mini or std?)
 
I had Grover 406c on my SE 245, took them off and actually have them on my SE Angelus acoustic. I'm not concerned with tuning stability, it's the ease of string changes that hooked me. They are direct replacement (no drilling required), although the mini tuning knob is smaller than stock - so they look a bit funny when next to another PRS with stock tuners.
 
do they have to be the minis?
Anybody know whats the part number for the schallers ?
Just to help clarify, some sites like Warmoth (mentioned above) list these tuners incorrectly as the Schaller Mini Locking Tuners while others like GuitarCenter/MusiciansFriend (and some eBay sellers) just call them Schaller Locking Tuning Machine Heads. According to Schaller's own product page, the heads depicted in ESPImperium's photo are specifically called the M6 Locking and appear to be the same as what these sites are showing.

What Schaller designates as the M6 Mini Locking are slightly smaller, mainly designated for Fender Strats and toplocking - with the thumb screw on the front end of the string post similar to the Phase II's. Also the screw mount on any Schaller product with the Mini appellation is in a different position so I am pretty sure none of them will just drop into an SE.

Garrett did recommend the right product; it's just that Warmoth has them labelled incorrectly. izzyizborn's link appears to show the M6 Locking tuners as well - the large knurled knob on the backside and the screw mount at the proper (135 degree from vertical) angle. That is what you want. There is a variation called the M6 Locking Pin that does not have a screw mount but has a metal nub that inserts into a pre-drilled hole to position the unit - much like the Steinberger gearless tuners do. So you have to be careful when ordering. I would just go by the picture more so than the arbitrary names.
 
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Yup yup. I put those Shallers on my Tremonti SE Custom. As was stated earlier...you don't really need them. They didn't improve my tuning stability but they sure do make stringchanges faster.
I don't know why the PhaseIIIs are "low mass". Back in the day they actually used to sell hunks of brass to clip onto your headstocks to improve tone. You know...more or high mass. Theese M6s definitely add some mass to your headstock. I noticed no loss of tone.
All that said...I like having them on my guitar and they can be had for like 75 bucks shipped. I paid like $80 for mine shipped to Canada. eBay is your friend.

OH...BUT..they are only 16 or 14:1. The grovers or gotohs are 18:1. Higher is usually better/finer. I didn't see the grovers until after I had ordered the Shallers. The Grovers were cheaper, higher ratio and "self locking". I probably would have still gone with thee Shallers. I don't know what it means but I don't think I wanted self lockers.
The Shallers are a drop-in replacement (get the right ones), are cheap, and work well. Hard to lose with them.
 
Hi all,
I am thinking of putting PRS locking tuners on my SE Custom 24 (pictured) but I was told by someone from my local music shop that I would need to drill new holes in the headstock. Does anyone know if this is the case and if not can I fit Phase II or III locking machine heads into my guitar?
Thanks

401419_422872164426865_286539044_n.jpg

ive just had phase IIs put on my SE CU24 2008 & they work & look incredible. Yes new holes need to be drilled & if you look really hard you may see the others although they have been filled and painted, but at the end of the day I wanted my SE to be all PRS parts so it's worth it :)
 
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