PRS SE 22 neck relief

Octopus

New Member
Joined
Mar 14, 2017
Messages
1
I just bought this guitar
http://www.guitar.com.au/guitars/electric/prs/se_cu22.html

This is my first attempt at setting a guitar up.
I have been fallowing this video. I have the same tools.

I cant seem to get the neck relief to .010 the furthest I have gotten it is .006-.007
The neck bow is excessive and the truss rod is stiff. I have .010 gauge strings on the guitar.
The guitar is a 22 fret not 24. I noticed on the PRS website the adjustments are for a 24.
https://www.prsguitars.com/csc/trussrod.html

The low E had a terrible fret buzz when I got it so I decided to make adjustments my self.
I do not want to take it to a shop. I have to learn at some point.
 
...

I cant seem to get the neck relief to .010 the furthest I have gotten it is .006-.007
The neck bow is excessive and the truss rod is stiff. I have .010 gauge strings on the guitar.
The guitar is a 22 fret not 24. I noticed on the PRS website the adjustments are for a 24.
...
The low E had a terrible fret buzz when I got it so I decided to make adjustments my self.
I do not want to take it to a shop. I have to learn at some point.

Something doesn't sound right. You say there was excessive bow, but the relief is only .007 at best. You should have more bow if you need more relief. Help us understand that. The buzz would make sense with the flatter measurements. The stiff truss rod may need some work. First let's get the details on the relief please.
 
Try this simple method. Hold the guitar in the playing position - capo your guitar at the 1st fret - push down the low 'E' string at the last fret and then push the string down at the 8th fret. You should see a tiny bit of 'bounce' between that fret and the string. Then set to taste. PRS really likes the neck to be straight, then set the action by raising lowering the bridge.

Jim
 
I was going to start a thread about this. My new SE 22 doesn't have any fret buzz but I've noticed the neck is like perfectly straight. I'm used to some bow so I was wondering if this is a PRS thing? Looks like Jim kind of cleared that up but still curious what others will have to say.
 
I've also found my PRSi to like a fairly straight neck. Usually just enough relief to where I can start to see it when I do the "first fret, last fret" method.
 
I was going to start a thread about this. My new SE 22 doesn't have any fret buzz but I've noticed the neck is like perfectly straight. I'm used to some bow so I was wondering if this is a PRS thing? Looks like Jim kind of cleared that up but still curious what others will have to say.

I think PRS are supposed to have the neck pretty straight. See the official truss rod guide. It's like the 2nd or 3rd skinniest feeler gauge.

I was having problems intonating my SE Holcomb until I got it near dead straight. This also largely cured my pressing down too hard and sharping all the notes (due to tall frets).
 
a quick way to check is just put pinky finger of left hand on first fret and one finger of other hand on last fret then check clearance of strings on 4th or 5th fret or where ever your free finger of left hand can reach to, then adjust the truss rod in 1/8 turn increments

Just checking but you do know that the bridge should be slanted with low E side higher than the high E? this thread has measurements from my SE which also has similar bridge and number of frets

http://forums.prsguitars.com/threads/se-245-serious-problem-please-help.21590/#post-307712

I can get the action really low with no buzz on the 21/22 frets, but if I turn the truss rod a quarter turn from there then the relief at 12fret is way higher......very sensitive
 
I think PRS are supposed to have the neck pretty straight. See the official truss rod guide. It's like the 2nd or 3rd skinniest feeler gauge.

I was having problems intonating my SE Holcomb until I got it near dead straight. This also largely cured my pressing down too hard and sharping all the notes (due to tall frets).
If it ain't broke I don't try to fix it! It's just something I've noticed because I tend to check the necks on all my guitars. Especially since the weather is starting to change around here. I've also lighten my touch since playing PRS guitars. Something I've needed to work on anyway.
 
I've set up enough guitars to know that you're wasting your time stressing about specs. They are just a guideline to get your axe into shape. Every guitar is a little different and will need adjustments either side of spec to get it just right for that instrument. If the specs say it's not quite right, but it feels right to you, then leave it :)

I use the first and last fret method, but with my hands. I fret the first fret, and then the last with my pinky of my right hand (in playing position), and then stretch my thumb as far as I can to the middle of the board. As long as there is a tiny bit of give under the string to the fret, the neck is probably fine. I have never measured the relief, I just check it by feel and eye. I make sure it's the same on both high and lowest strings. Another way I check is to hold the guitar up to the light, on its side/playing position, not flat, and sight down the neck from the body end. You can tell this way whether it's got a slight bow or is dead straight by looking at the line of the fret ends and board edge. You can also check for twists and stuff.

Something to note, that I have noticed with my LP and my 245 and ibby acoustic, is that from the body join, the neck does not move with the rod because it is glued in place. So if you use the visual method, make sure you take into account that there may be a perfect amount of bow in the neck, but the fretboard from the 15th fret or whatever the board may curve away and give it the illusion of a backbow. In my acoustic's case it actually has quite a pronounced fallaway and so when I visually check I use my hands to block my view of the fretboard from the body join

If your truss rod will not turn, don't force it. Take it to a tech. I have found with my SE when I set it up, the truss rod would only need a 1/8th turn or so to provide very significant results.
 
Consider buying one of these:http://www.ebay.com/itm/Guitar-Neck...045642?hash=item1a2a22604a:g:57wAAOSwJ4hY9yaB

Some may consider it a little bit extreme to just check relief of guitar, But I use it and it's so much easier to check the relief. I do it this way: with the guitar without strings, make the neck completely flat. When you put the strings on, the tension will make the necessary relief. Simple. If you don't want to take the strings off, just adjust until yoju have very little relief, there is no need for much. If you can't get a decent action, then probably the problem will be some high frets or nut slots not cut correctly.
 
Back
Top