PRS CE24 action issue - shimming?

I misunderstood. So just lower d screw a tiny bit so it is even, but, other than that, I had the trem right in the front, and the 1/16 is the float in the rear. Luckily I did learn a bit about the trem, and was aware of the damage that can be caused to the knife edge if the tension is on the trem while adjusting.
 
Amazing how pictures are worth 1000 words. This is clearly a trem setup issue. I wish I could reach through the computer and adjust that thing for you.
 
I did get them trem right hopefully. Took off strings and springs, set screws to 2.5 mm using the allen wrench method, and held down the trem while setting back up so it wouldn't slip. Only problem is that I do not have a .05" allen. I didn't know they were so hard to find. I am hoping the SEs use the same size, because the other guitar player in my band has the tool kit for his Santana. Action is still high. I will post a pic once the saddles are settled. I also took everthing apart. Neck is perfectly set in pocket. I admit that I did throw a tiny shim in today to set the action straight for now, but I still want to get this right, and I appreciate all of your help.
 
So it turns out the saddle screw they replaced is stuck and I am not sure if the e string has any in it at all. I have it to a pretty good playing set up, but I have to look into some saddle screws/saddles to do this right. If anyone could post a pic of their threm showing the height of their saddles on their ce, it would be much appreciated. So I will have an idea of where to set mine as a starting point.
 
IIRC...the saddles should follow a very slight arc, kinda like the radius at the end of the fingerboard...start with both "E" strings flat against the trem base, and the D and G will be raised the highest...not crazy high, just arcing a bit. Hope this helps...something I've done when adjusting saddles...spray a small amount of WD40 on a Q tip and get a small amount in with each saddle height screw, and this will help them along.
 
Ok, thanks Bill. I guessed right then with the saddles, only I want the sixth string a tad higher. I did put a tad of metal lubricant in each hole, but it seems the screws are stripped. I might just slip something under that one saddle for now and maybe soak it at some point. Relacements are pricey. It seems cheaper to get a full graphtech set, than to replace a couple.
 
Ok, thanks Bill. I guessed right then with the saddles, only I want the sixth string a tad higher. I did put a tad of metal lubricant in each hole, but it seems the screws are stripped. I might just slip something under that one saddle for now and maybe soak it at some point. Relacements are pricey. It seems cheaper to get a full graphtech set, than to replace a couple.

John Mann has full sets of saddles on his site pretty darn Cheap.
 
Damn, I broke down and bought the graphtech set last night. Oh well, I am sure I will be happy with them. Even with the setup I have now, it plays beautifully. I just want to have it right.
 
I hope you get this sorted out. I can't help but think that neck shim may be hurting your sustain to some degree.
 
So it looks like the tech grinded one of the saddles as a solution to the screws being frozen :(

Here is the trem with the new saddles.

I took the shim out, but action still too high, so I put it back in.
 
Here is the trem with the new saddles.

I took the shim out, but action still too high, so I put it back in.
The s6 crews are too high in the trem. You can see the grove in the shaft above the holes. Take them all down at the same rate and you will see the knife edge slip into that slot when they are all down to the trem plate level. I don't know if it will help with the action height, but you don't want to use thetrem without the plate edge riding in that slot in all 6 screws.
 
So it looks like the tech grinded one of the saddles as a solution to the screws being frozen :(

Here is the trem with the new saddles.

I took the shim out, but action still too high, so I our it back in.

The six holes in your trem are countersunk on the bottom side so the edge of the hole has a knife edge. The knife edge has to be in the groove on the screws. Does that make sense to you? Im asking because that's the 2nd pic you've posted that way and I would hate to see you ruin your trem. That would get expensive.

Just curious, when you put a capo on first fret and hold down on the last fret how much clearance do you have between bottom of string and top of fret wire at the twelfth fret?
 
I get about one mm of clearance on the twelfth fret.

Much much better.

Something else im curious about. Have you checked your modcat? That would tell you what your guitar was when it left the factory.

I wonder if somebody did some serious mods to this guitar before you got it?
 
Back
Top