PRS 5 WAY BLADE SWITCH PIN OUT

[Rhandy]

Hi

I´m having noise issues with my prs 5 blade switch.Europe tech center says this noises are normal.

Anyone could help me with shematic for change prs 5 way blade swicth to SUPERSWITCH .

I want same positons on super switch
BLADE POSITIONS

• Position 1: Bridge humbucker
• Position 2: Bridge humbucker with neck singlecoil
• Position 3: Bridge and neck humbuckers
• Position 4: Neck singlecoil with bridge singlecoil
• Position 5: Neck humbucker

I just want pinout conversion.

 

[Rhandy]

Ok I found one. moded.

 

[Chrism27]

Sorry to revive a dead thread, but does anyone have an updated image of this? Looks like the one that was posted is no longer available. Thanks!

 

[garrett]

 

[Chrism27]

Wow thanks!

 

[Chrism27]

Hey - just one more question if I may. Would the diagram above change if my pickups have the braided shield with 1 extra white "tap" wire? Or would I just solder in a jumper wire coming off the shield to the ground points on the switch?

 

[garrett]

Hey - just one more question if I may. Would the diagram above change if my pickups have the braided shield with 1 extra white "tap" wire? Or would I just solder in a jumper wire coming off the shield to the ground points on the switch?

That changes the game a bit. With those, I wouldn't ground them via the switch. I would ground the braids to the back of a pot and possibly partially wrap them with heat shrink to avoid any possible shorts. Then run the black and white wires to the blade.

Note that this will still give you slug coil of neck pickup, but you'll most likely get screw coil of bridge pickup. Not a big deal, but position 4 will be slightly less quacky. You could replicate the stock settings with a small tweak to the bridge hot and tap wire locations and you'd only need a 2-pole super switch.

 

[garrett]

Hey - just one more question if I may. Would the diagram above change if my pickups have the braided shield with 1 extra white "tap" wire? Or would I just solder in a jumper wire coming off the shield to the ground points on the switch?

That changes the game a bit. With those, I wouldn't ground them via the switch. I would ground the braids to the back of a pot and possibly partially wrap them with heat shrink to avoid any possible shorts. Then run the black and white wires to the blade.

Note that this will still give you slug coil of neck pickup, but you'll most likely get screw coil of bridge pickup. Not a big deal, but position 4 will be slightly less quacky. You could replicate the stock settings with a small tweak to the bridge hot and tap wire locations and you'd only need a 2-pole super switch.

You got my brain going...