Brand new S2 CU24, annoying wolftone...

I'm not sure what a C clamp is... (don't know how to translate that exactly), But i tried putting my capo on the neck and it changed the wolftone to another fret, that what you mean?

What about fat fingers? I remember someone saying something about them and I saw them on ebay... are they a good substitute for the C-clamp? I could buy one on ebay!
 
Don't worry, your trem will be fine. Here's the problem. When you put the springs back on, you didn't set the trem in the groove of the 6 screws that hold the trem on the guitar. There is a groove around each of the 6 set screws and there is a knife edge in the flat part of the trem that needs to be riding in the groove. Here is a picture of my trem. Look closely at the screws in focus at the closest part of the trem and you will see that the plate is lower on the screws than the ones in your photo. Just loosen the strings again and jiggle the trem until it settles into the grooves and then tighten the strings again. When it is right you should have a little of the screws sticking up out of the trem flat part like in my photo.
P1010027.jpg


You should also have 1/16th of an inch clearance above the guitar body for the trem to move which it looks like you do. The last thing is you should tighten one of your claw screws (or loosen the other one), so that all 4 springs have the same tension. Your claw looks a little uneven.

Let us know when you have it working again.
 
Don't worry, your trem will be fine. Here's the problem. When you put the springs back on, you didn't set the trem in the groove of the 6 screws that hold the trem on the guitar. There is a groove around each of the 6 set screws and there is a knife edge in the flat part of the trem that needs to be riding in the groove. Here is a picture of my trem. Look closely at the screws in focus at the closest part of the trem and you will see that the plate is lower on the screws than the ones in your photo. Just loosen the strings again and jiggle the trem until it settles into the grooves and then tighten the strings again. When it is right you should have a little of the screws sticking up out of the trem flat part like in my photo.
P1010027.jpg


You should also have 1/16th of an inch clearance above the guitar body for the trem to move which it looks like you do. The last thing is you should tighten one of your claw screws (or loosen the other one), so that all 4 springs have the same tension. Your claw looks a little uneven.

Let us know when you have it working again.

Thank you man, you are awesome!

I'm at work right now, but I'll try to do as you say once I get home if time lets today, but I'll try to do it as soon as posible and will let you know, just one doubt... Im not a native english speaker so, there are some terms that I find hard to understand...

Could you explain me what is or how does the "groove" and "knife edge" are or looks? so I can better understand what I have to do?
Sry to bother you this much, I'll really apreciate you help man!
 
Could you explain me what is or how does the "groove" and "knife edge" are or looks? so I can better understand what I have to do?
Sry to bother you this much, I'll really apreciate you help man!

No se puede ver porque esta debajo del plato del trem, pero cada uno de los 6 tornillos teine un surco. Es importante que no se mueven los 6 tornillos proque todos estan a la misma altura. Solo teine que ajustar el plato del trem hasta que se baja en los surcos. Se puede hacer por el sentido.
 
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good point Les, I guess I have always called wolfetones and deadspots kind of the same thing mistakenly. I'm not sure I have experienced a wolfetone as per the definition on any solid body instrument, but I do get funny overtones on what I call "dead spots". I still suspect both phenomena are due to the natural resonant frequencies of the instrument and likely can not be ameliorated in any real practical sense. Perhaps this thread will prove my hypothesis incorrect.
 
No se puede ver porque esta debajo del plato del trem, pero cada uno de los 6 tornillos teine un surco. Es importante que no se mueven los 6 tornillos proque todos estan a la misma altura. Solo teine que ajustar el plato del trem hasta que se baja en los surcos. Se puede hacer por el sentido.

you were right man!

that was the problem! thanks to you I managed to fix it! now the bridge rest like it should on its screws and no more problems with the whammy bar!
I really hope I didn't screw anything because I abused the trem bar believing that by strechtching it would get fixed... I literally raped that trem bar... I hope nothing wrong goes because of that :s, but I havent any problems right now.. (just the wolf tone)

One thing I wasn't able to do was to get the claws parallel... cause If I try to get them at the exact distance one side gets more high than the other... they are almost as in the picture you saw... and that's actually the way it came when I buy it... do you thing this can harm my guitar?
 
you were right man!

that was the problem! thanks to you I managed to fix it! now the bridge rest like it should on its screws and no more problems with the whammy bar!
I really hope I didn't screw anything because I abused the trem bar believing that by strechtching it would get fixed... I literally raped that trem bar... I hope nothing wrong goes because of that :s, but I havent any problems right now.. (just the wolf tone)

One thing I wasn't able to do was to get the claws parallel... cause If I try to get them at the exact distance one side gets more high than the other... they are almost as in the picture you saw... and that's actually the way it came when I buy it... do you thing this can harm my guitar?

Glad it worked. If the guitar came from the factory with the claw that way, it is probably fine to leave it. It won't hurt the guitar.
 
Did you try putting some weight on the headstock yet?
Yes! I made a test with a clip tunner and adding some more weight... it changed the wolf tone to another fret, for example, I have the problem between the 9th and 11th fret and adding weight it move it to 10th to 12th... but I don't want to move it to another fret... I'd like to fix it if possible :(

It sometimes doesn't sound but most of the time its there when I play that note.... and for example if I play the G or F# it sounds ok, but If I bend them to A, it goes wolftone... another thing, the G# and A# have the same problem but in minor degree...

Should I rise the string height? lower the pickup? try another string gauge foe the B string? Cause If I play the same note on the G string (fret 14) it sounds OK, and if I play on the high E string (5th fret) it sounds like the wolftone tries to appear but he can't in the end...

It something weird that I've never seen before but it's very annoying when I have to use that fret...
 
Glad it worked. If the guitar came from the factory with the claw that way, it is probably fine to leave it. It won't hurt the guitar.

Sure man! Thanks a lot! I though I have destroyed my guitar :(


You saved it!

Btw man, do you know something about this wolftone I'm experiencing? I play through a Marshall Class 5 if that helps (buought it used... as far as I know, the valves havent been replaced in a long time...)
Don't know if that is related with the wolf... before it I used a fender mustang v. 1 and I had the same problem so I don't think is related to the amp...
Plus it is more noticeable with bridge pu than with Neck... and when using distortion (I use a Metal Muff), when playing the Marshall without distortion, I don't think I have the problem because it doesnt really adds distortion... but I'll test it once a finish work and get home!
 
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well just adding some more news...
I unplugged the guitar and played acousticaly... put my ear against the body and hitted the notes of the B string, when I played the 10th fret, the one with the wolftone, I could hear through the wood the note sound higher, like a laser piercing my ear... if I did this for a long time is started to hurt my ear sense...

Never experienced something like that before...
 
Well, this is really annoying... Yesterday I weas rehearsing and I know the Marshall Class 5 I use is not exactly for metal (I'm using a MetalMuff pedal), but even at low volume, turning down high freqs, reducing gain, there's still this wolf tone that makes this three frets 9th, 10th and 11th on B string useless...

Im really angry for this right now as it seems there's no way to fix this situation... and the guitar will always be like this... I feel bad because, here in Mexico, $ 1399 usd is what the majority of people earn in 10 or 12 months of work... yes, the sad reality for almost half the people in my country and well I was lucky enough to have a good job for a few months that let me save money to buy this guitar, deciding to save more bucks to buy the S2 instead of an LTD and having sold my Epi Prophecy Custom to get a better axe and in the end I finished with this really expensive guitar after months of saving money to buy it expecting to get a really worth instrument and I ended up with a guitar that I can't play without having to avoid these or those frets from time to time because I get an unpleasent sound for what I'm rehearsing, making the song sound ridiculously awful...
I don't know guys... I'm really pissed of... wish there was something that could fix this thing... although this is more noticeable when playing with distortion, still you can hear it when playing clean but that way it almost unnoticeable, but c'mon... I didn't buy it to play it clean all my life...

Still I have to test it with higher gauge strings on the high E and B strings to see if higher gauge fix this situation... meanwhile, I'm saving money again to buy another guitar... life sucks hard sometimes...
 
Sorry to hear about your trouble. There are sometimes duds from any manufacturer or luthier. It is possible that you got one. I take it you tried to return it to where you bought it from?

If it were mine, I would take it to a luthier who I respected and trusted. It might be as simple as replacing frets, or it might be an issue with the truss rod, or it might be as complicated as having to replace the neck, but you are asking the wrong people because we can't put our hands on it. Find someone with the expertise to really fix it or tell you that it can't be fixed.
 
A word about the "C" clamp...(sorry if this has already been mentioned)...there are a couple manufacturers that make a small clamp to attach to your headstock for this very reason. (Fat Fingers, as mentioned above, are one type) There was also a thing called a "fat head" for bass/guitar made a little while back. This was shaped like the headstock of the instrument it was being attached to. screwed to the rear of the headstock. The clamps mentioned look like little brass clamps, and are barely noticeable.
I have heard good results, and other results where the overtone actually moves to somewhere else on the neck. Either way, for a couple bucks, give a clamp a try.
Good luck.
 
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Sorry to hear about your trouble. There are sometimes duds from any manufacturer or luthier. It is possible that you got one. I take it you tried to return it to where you bought it from?

If it were mine, I would take it to a luthier who I respected and trusted. It might be as simple as replacing frets, or it might be an issue with the truss rod, or it might be as complicated as having to replace the neck, but you are asking the wrong people because we can't put our hands on it. Find someone with the expertise to really fix it or tell you that it can't be fixed.

You are right... I just thought someone could know something about this... The problem is I bought the guitar from sweetwater on USA and I'm from México... and as I bringed the guitar as baggage, sending it back to have it checked would cost me almost 400 usd... and sadly I don't have enough money right now...
 
A word about the "C" clamp...(sorry if this has already been mentioned)...there are a couple manufacturers that make a small clamp to attach to your headstock for this very reason. (Fat Fingers, as mentioned above, are one type) There was also a thing called a "fat head" for bass/guitar made a little while back. This was shaped like the headstock of the instrument it was being attached to. screwed to the rear of the headstock. The clamps mentioned look like little brass clamps, and are barely noticeable.
I have heard good results, and other results where the overtone actually moves to somewhere else on the neck. Either way, for a couple bucks, give a clamp a try.
Good luck.

Hi! Yes, I didn't use a C clam but used a capo and hanged some more weigth to it and yeah it moved the wolf 2 frets up, but didn't fix it... I'm asuming a C-clamp is heavier enough to make it disappear... how much weight can the Neck handle? I don't want to ruin it!
 
Have you tried lowering your pickups?


Actually, yesterday I did it and I noticed the wolf tone get better but it's not fixed yet...
Plus I tried to adjust the trussrod as I think I should add some relief to it... stupidly, I forgot it was a dealing with a floating trem and when I detuned the strings the trem slipped out of the 6 pivot screws so I had to mess with the trem claw again, unscrewing the 2 claw screws, getting the trem into the right position with the 6 pivot screws and tunning again IT WAS A PAIN...
But I managed to do it, just that I don't know why exactly... but It feels tighter now and while there should be .15mm distance from body to the bridge, it is .01 or .02 mm higher... and couldn't managed to lower... I don't understand what went wrong when adjusting it... also the saddle height was wrong after tuning it... could they maybe get by lowered itself when I was trying to put the bridge back into its position? and btw, the four springs are exactly the same right? or each one is supposed to have its particular place? cause when trying to set up the bridge I forget the order they where supposed to be and I was thinking if maybe it could be the reason why the trem feels tighter now...
 
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