Advice on best modeling amps

Just bought M Britt profiles for the 3P CSR I'm now selling - very, very good! Really is amazing what that toaster can do, at least in the proper hands! I figure with a bad back and ears, I wouldn't notice the difference others have anyway! Wait, what was I saying again...?

M Britt profiles rock.
 
Katana 100 is good stuff. It has the FX loop that's missing in the 50.

Yup, it has lots of extra capabilities, double storage for profiles, a bigger speaker etc.
Most of these are unnecessary for bedroom players, though - even the K50 is powerful enough to fill a small venue.

N.F.
 
Yup, it has lots of extra capabilities, double storage for profiles, a bigger speaker etc.
Most of these are unnecessary for bedroom players, though - even the K50 is powerful enough to fill a small venue.

N.F.
I play in bedroom at 0.5 watts. And don't crank the Master.
 
Skip the modeling amp and get a tube amp! I had a couple modeling amps back in the day and if they break, they're unfixable due to all the digital components. Tube amp will last a lifetime, can easily be fixed and tailored to sound with tube swaps...and best of all, sounds a thousand times better! I love my Blackstar...has a switch for bedroom type play that cuts the watts.
 
I still dig the Yamaha THR5 for living room stuff. I'll probably keep using it until I can swing a Carr Mercury (or some future PRS lunchbox from heck, should they ever make such a critter). I use the "Lead" model, gain at 5, volume at 7, master volume to whatever I can get away with at the hour I'm playing, "EQ at noon, just a bit of reverb." That's a nice, hot JCM-style lead tone without a whole lot of distortion. It cleans up like an actual amp from the guitar volume, so I can do everything from clean rhythms like "Elizabeth Reed," "Sweet Home," and "Oye Como Va" to dirty 70s raunch like "Highway to Hell," "Sweet Emotion," and "Down Brownie," all off that one setting, just by fiddling the guitar knobs. And when it eventually craps out and dies, its five pound all-metal chassis will make a swell doorstop.
 
I still dig the Yamaha THR5 for living room stuff. I'll probably keep using it until I can swing a Carr Mercury (or some future PRS lunchbox from heck, should they ever make such a critter). I use the "Lead" model, gain at 5, volume at 7, master volume to whatever I can get away with at the hour I'm playing, "EQ at noon, just a bit of reverb." That's a nice, hot JCM-style lead tone without a whole lot of distortion. It cleans up like an actual amp from the guitar volume, so I can do everything from clean rhythms like "Elizabeth Reed," "Sweet Home," and "Oye Como Va" to dirty 70s raunch like "Highway to Hell," "Sweet Emotion," and "Down Brownie," all off that one setting, just by fiddling the guitar knobs. And when it eventually craps out and dies, its five pound all-metal chassis will make a swell doorstop.

The Carr Mercury V is a KILLER amp. Got to check one out a few months back.
 
My kids and I use the Yamaha THR 10C. It is really great for classic and blues tones. I did just pick up a Boss Katana 100. Still in the box. For my son for Christmas for his first personal amp. He will be joining a School of Rock band soon, so I wanted him to be properly kitted.
 
A Kemper is a profiler which reproduces a recorded setting of a real amp, its destinctive behaviour in that situation. If it's set up for high gain, it is only the high gain behaviour. As far as I understand it after reading a few forums regarding the Kemper.
A modeller comes already along with an offer of a bunch of amps. In that case, R&D of those factories try to digitalize the whole amp, give aditional filters (different mics, cabs) to allow the user to tweak his own tone.
For about nearly 20 years I play mostly Line 6 gear. I own a traditional vintage 100 watts tube head (1983 US made acoustic G100T), too, placed on a 412 cab of Hughes & Kettner.
Due to my job and respect to my neighbours I'm comfy with Line 6 by playing it with a very acceptable tone via headphone use.
Aswell I owned a Line 6/Bogner DT50 212 50 watts combo. In theory the HD500X floorboard is given the amp setting, the DT50 "transforms" to the role model by real tubes and PCB.
I don't take that particular gear to pretent the real role model, but the preset as a basis to create my own voice.
 
A Kemper is a profiler which reproduces a recorded setting of a real amp, its destinctive behaviour in that situation. If it's set up for high gain, it is only the high gain behaviour. As far as I understand it after reading a few forums regarding the Kemper.
A modeller comes already along with an offer of a bunch of amps. In that case, R&D of those factories try to digitalize the whole amp, give aditional filters (different mics, cabs) to allow the user to tweak his own tone.

well... Yes, the Kemper profiles an amp at whatever settings the source amp is set at. It also includes the cab, the mics, the mic setup and any outboard gear in the chain while doing the profile.
However, you can tweak to your heart's content after the "snapshot" is taken. It will not replicate exactly how the knobs etc work on the source amp, of course - but you CAN do a lot, both with the "traditional" knobs (gain, EQ knobs), and also with the deeper parameters. I find the tweakability is excellent. You can't move the mic around after the fact, but you CAN switch to a cabinet from a different amp (which includes aforementioned mic setup etc).
It also comes with something like 3-400 profiles preloaded, as well as 10.000 profiles available for free. Not to mention all the profiles you can buy from skilled engineers.

I vastly prefer the kemper to the modellers and plugins I've tried, and find it more flexible in many ways.
 
well... Yes, the Kemper profiles an amp at whatever settings the source amp is set at. It also includes the cab, the mics, the mic setup and any outboard gear in the chain while doing the profile.
However, you can tweak to your heart's content after the "snapshot" is taken. It will not replicate exactly how the knobs etc work on the source amp, of course - but you CAN do a lot, both with the "traditional" knobs (gain, EQ knobs), and also with the deeper parameters. I find the tweakability is excellent. You can't move the mic around after the fact, but you CAN switch to a cabinet from a different amp (which includes aforementioned mic setup etc).
It also comes with something like 3-400 profiles preloaded, as well as 10.000 profiles available for free. Not to mention all the profiles you can buy from skilled engineers.

I vastly prefer the kemper to the modellers and plugins I've tried, and find it more flexible in many ways.

Completely agree with this!
 
Many paths lead to Rome as a underscore. He must point out, which gear fits best to his requirements and circumstances actually.
 
well... Yes, the Kemper profiles an amp at whatever settings the source amp is set at. It also includes the cab, the mics, the mic setup and any outboard gear in the chain while doing the profile.
However, you can tweak to your heart's content after the "snapshot" is taken. It will not replicate exactly how the knobs etc work on the source amp, of course - but you CAN do a lot, both with the "traditional" knobs (gain, EQ knobs), and also with the deeper parameters. I find the tweakability is excellent. You can't move the mic around after the fact, but you CAN switch to a cabinet from a different amp (which includes aforementioned mic setup etc).
It also comes with something like 3-400 profiles preloaded, as well as 10.000 profiles available for free. Not to mention all the profiles you can buy from skilled engineers.

I vastly prefer the kemper to the modellers and plugins I've tried, and find it more flexible in many ways.
Also...
If you use a profile with little to no gain, you can add some gain (and other things) and get some truly amazing results. The reverse, not so much.
 
Also...
If you use a profile with little to no gain, you can add some gain (and other things) and get some truly amazing results. The reverse, not so much.
I find it's very profile-dependent. But generally, going from mid-high drive to low-mid drive seems to cross a threshold where something is lost.
Thankfully, there are plenty profiles that come with just the right amount anyway :)
 
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