Advice on best modeling amps

Don’t believe him. He can’t hear a damn thing. :rolleyes:



Yet another reason why modeling amps are the Spawn of Satan! ;)

You can go out and buy a 60 year old tube amp and make it work. And it will sound like a real tube amp.

“But a tube amp only does one amp, Les.”

“That, sir, is the beauty of it.”
I think modelers definitely have their place. While I do have a real big boy tube amp (it even has some dudes signature scrawled on the front) I have been thinking of getting some sort of modeler for quieter practice. I will definitely check out some of the ones mentioned in the thread.
 
I think modelers definitely have their place.

Of course they do.

They’re great for the first week, until the latest-greatest ‘almost real’ one comes out; after that they make superb guitar-themed doorstops! :)



Disclaimer: I like to kid around about this stuff. People should play whatever suits them*

*Be sure to get one that’s heavy enough to hold the door open next week.
 
Of course they do.

They’re great for the first week, until the latest-greatest ‘almost real’ one comes out; after that they make superb guitar-themed doorstops! :)



Disclaimer: I like to kid around about this stuff. People should play whatever suits them*

*Be sure to get one that’s heavy enough to hold the door open next week.

Rumor has it, Lone Stars make good door stops too. :D
 
Of course they do.

They’re great for the first week, until the latest-greatest ‘almost real’ one comes out; after that they make superb guitar-themed doorstops! :)



Disclaimer: I like to kid around about this stuff. People should play whatever suits them*

*Be sure to get one that’s heavy enough to hold the door open next week.
Wait a minute are we talking about modelers or True most True Historic guitars ever? :)
 
Forget the Marshall CODE. Sounds like wasps.
Boss Katana or Blackstar ID TVP are both awesome sounding amps.

can confirm the marshall code sounds like wasp piss and the controls are really annoying. the app is much much worse

Blackstar HT1 and HT5. In your price range, great small tube amps, and probably close to what you’re looking tone wise. I don’t want to open that debate here, many people argue they are hybrid amps, not true tube. Nevertheless, great sound and features, sound great on headphones.
.

Can confirm the blackstar HT5R is badass. Very good cleans, good dirt (i have heard complaints about the dirt, but to my ear it's pretty nice). It covers most of what I'm looking for in an amp and it's very simple with 4 knob EQ. it has tube pre-section and tube power section. The rectifier is solid state but to most people would say it's a "tube" amp. Plus I don't know what a rectifier is, so I don't care.
 
Of course they do.

They’re great for the first week, until the latest-greatest ‘almost real’ one comes out; after that they make superb guitar-themed doorstops! :)

*Be sure to get one that’s heavy enough to hold the door open next week.

Lester, I’ll bring my Kemper to the hospital for you to noodle on while you’re recooperating from your hernia surgery.
 
Having just watched the Pineapple Thief DVD, Darran uses an Axe FX and Bruce uses a Kemper, but these are professional level gear for professionally recorded music and live shows. Definitely try before you buy. I was fortunate enough to have a demo, and decided the Kemper is definitely not for me.

I have also heard good things about the Yamaha, and am fond of Vox's amps, myself (mostly the amPlug series, but some of their speaker combos do a small amount of modelling).
 
My (first) amp is a Fender Mustang II v.2 (dabbled a bit with others like George Dennis "The Blue" in the meantime).
For better results, it would be better to use a laptop with the Fender FUSE software, in order to customize the sound to your tastes, the defaults are rather mediocre.

These solid state amps are quite useful: light, low power consumption, fast start-up, no maintenance needed. Tube amps are idiosyncratic animals and more higher maintenance, and you need to drive them hard in order to enjoy their warm sounds - in low volumes they lose much of their shine, while SS amps don't suffer as much in bedroom levels.

Its closed back construction is especially useful when practising in low volumes, as you can keep music/noise from filling whole apartments and be more focused.
The Mustang III is open back and a quite different beast, while it offers a more complete control via LCD screen and menus compared to its smaller brethren.

I have not heard good things about the Mustang GT series in high power settings (but the default profiles are claimed to be quite good).
I am leaning towards the BOSS Katana (either the 100W combo or the 100W head, which also has its own speaker, so you can leave the THR amps out on portability). The 50 Watt Katana model is good enough, but it doesn't offer all the physical buttons for playing with the channels as its bigger brethren, and the speaker is smaller.

Cheers,
N.F.
 
My (first) amp is a Fender Mustang II v.2 (dabbled a bit with others like George Dennis "The Blue" in the meantime).
For better results, it would be better to use a laptop with the Fender FUSE software, in order to customize the sound to your tastes, the defaults are rather mediocre.

These solid state amps are quite useful: light, low power consumption, fast start-up, no maintenance needed. Tube amps are idiosyncratic animals and more higher maintenance, and you need to drive them hard in order to enjoy their warm sounds - in low volumes they lose much of their shine, while SS amps don't suffer as much in bedroom levels.

Its closed back construction is especially useful when practising in low volumes, as you can keep music/noise from filling whole apartments and be more focused.
The Mustang III is open back and a quite different beast, while it offers a more complete control via LCD screen and menus compared to its smaller brethren.

I have not heard good things about the Mustang GT series in high power settings (but the default profiles are claimed to be quite good).
I am leaning towards the BOSS Katana (either the 100W combo or the 100W head, which also has its own speaker, so you can leave the THR amps out on portability). The 50 Watt Katana model is good enough, but it doesn't offer all the physical buttons for playing with the channels as its bigger brethren, and the speaker is smaller.

Cheers,
N.F.
Katana 100 is good stuff. It has the FX loop that's missing in the 50.
 
Just bought M Britt profiles for the 3P CSR I'm now selling - very, very good! Really is amazing what that toaster can do, at least in the proper hands! I figure with a bad back and ears, I wouldn't notice the difference others have anyway! Wait, what was I saying again...?
 
Just bought M Britt profiles for the 3P CSR I'm now selling - very, very good! Really is amazing what that toaster can do, at least in the proper hands! I figure with a bad back and ears, I wouldn't notice the difference others have anyway! Wait, what was I saying again...?
I'm about to bite on that pack too.
 
i run katana with delay reverb in loop and compressor n od in front. its smoking good for the price

clean channel, lil touch of onboard tubescreamer and strat = heaven

crunch channel and prs = nivarna
 
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